Tetouan Overview

For a small city, Tetouan (pronounced tet-ta-wan; pop. 350,000) has a lot of history and a lot of hustle. Controlled by the Spanish for much of the 20th century, the city’s buildings and church attest to a long colonial presence, as do Spanish newspapers and the dominance of Spanish as a second language. The hustlers speak it, too, and it’s hard to get far without an “Hola, amigo.” Aside from its medina, packed with mosques and a mellah, the old Jewish quarter, there’s not much to do—but plenty of buses to Chefchaouen.

Tetouan is bisected by Av. Mohammed V, which runs through the center, connecting the two main Pl.zas, Pl. Moulay el-Mehdi and Pl. Hassan II, and continues on into the winding streets of the old medina. To reach Pl. Moulay al-Mehdi, the heart of the ville nouvelle, from the CTM bus station, cross the street and turn left on Rue Moulay Abbas. Walk two blocks, turn right on Ave. al-Ourouba, and it’s two blocks up. From the other bus station, it’s best to take a taxi (8dh). Otherwise, walk up Rue de Torreta and bear left at the fork to get to the CTM station and then to the center. Pl. Moulay el-Mehdi is home to Pension Iberia, the BMCE bank, the post office (open M-F 8:30am-12:15pm and 2:30-6:30pm, Sa 8:30-11:30am) and telephones. Internet (5dh per hr.) can be found at Remote Studios, on Mohammed V in between the two plazas (open daily 10am-midnight.) The tourist office is a half block down Av. Mohammed V toward the medina, and has a map and info on guides. (☎039 96 19 15. Spanish and French spoken.) Open M-F 8:30am-noon and 2:30-6:30pm.) Reach police at ☎19.

Buses leave CTM’s station to: Casablanca (7hr., 4 per day 5:45am-midnight, 140dh); Chefchaouen (1hr., 5 per day 5am-9:30pm, 20dh); Fez (5hr.; 11am, 1:45, 4:30pm; 93dh); Marrakesh (11hr.; 5:45am, noon, midnight; 235dh); and Tangier (1hr., 6am and 4:45pm, 20dh). CTM buses (☎039 93 24 15) provide a receipt for luggage (5dh). Non-CTM buses leave from a station south of the city. It’s best to take a petit taxi (8dh), but to walk, head left of the CTM station and continue walking down Rue de Torreta across the highway; it’s on the left. Departures to the locations above are relatively frequent as several companies run out of Tetouan. Grand taxis (15-20dh) to Ceuta also leave from near the CTM station. Taxis to Chefchaouen (25dh when full) run from a stand 10min. away: walk from Pl. Moulay al-Mehdi away from the bus station along Rue 10 de Mai and bear left onto Rue al-Jazair.

For accommodations, by far the best option is Pension Iberia , Pl. Moulay al-Mehdi, on the third floor above BMCE. Clean, breezy rooms make up for a long walk upstairs. Fills up quickly. (☎039 96 36 79. Hot showers 10dh. Singles 50dh; doubles 80dh, triples 120dh.) Hotel Príncipe , 20 Rue Youssef, has archaically furnished rooms with bath and toilet. Try to get a window overlooking the street. (☎039 96 27 95. Singles 70dh, with shower 90dh; doubles 100/120dh; triples 140/180dh). Cheerfully tacky whitewashed trees and plastic chairs decorate Restaurant Restinga , 21 Ave. Mohammed V. The only place that serves alcohol in the area, it is dominated by Moroccan businessmen drinking Special Flag (14dh) and eating olives. Meat and fish dishes 40-50dh. (Open daily noon-3pm and 6:30-10pm.) The pocket-sized pastillas (lamb-filled pastries; 6dh) at Café-Patisserie Smir , 17 Calle Mohammed V, make a perfect lunch-on-the-go, though there’s also a balcony on which to linger (1-5dh). Popular with Moroccan families, it’s also comfortable for women. (Open daily 6am-9pm.)