San Jose Sights

Teatro Nacional. Small but exquisite, the National Theater is a must-see. In 1897, the construction of the theater was inspired (and funded) by Costa Rican citizens clamoring for more cultural venues. Because it was originally a product of their interest and money, ticos still take a great deal of pride in this site. The theater is graced with sculpted banisters overlaid in 22.5-carat gold, marble floors, and frescoes. Made by sculptor Pitro Bulgarelli, statues representing Dance, Music, and Fame adorn its facade. The lobby features Costa Rica’s most famous mural, a collage of the crops that brought the country its prosperity—bananas and coffee. A grand staircase inspired by the Paris Opera ascends toward bright overhead reliefs. Performances include ballet, drama, classical music, and opera. (Av. 2, C. 3, SW corner of the Plaza de la Cultura. ☎2221 1329; www.teatronacional.go.cr. Open M-Sa 9am-4pm. 30min. tours available in English or Spanish on the hour, except at noon; US$5. Ask about performances and ticket prices at the ticket window.)

Museo Nacional. This museum offers an overview of Costa Rican history and early Costa Rican life. The building has been transformed from a military headquarters (the Cuarto Bellarista) into a home for a collection of artifacts. Though the front is still riddled with bullet-marks from the 1948 Revolution, the interior is full of pre-Columbian art, along with exhibits on Costa Rican history, archaeology, and geology. Don’t miss the view of San José from the fort’s high position and the butterfly garden on the lowest level. (Av. Central/2, C. 17. ☎2257 1433 or 2256 4139. Open M-Sa 8:30am-5pm, Su 9am-4:30pm. US$4, students US$2.)

Museo De Oro. Founded in 1950 by the Central Bank of Costa Rica to better preserve Costa Rican cultural heritage, the Museo de Oro houses a three-part exploration of Costa Rican culture underneath the Plaza de Cultura. The museum’s most impressive exhibit is its huge collection of pre-Columbian gold from AD 500. Another exhibit houses 16th century bills, coins, and boletos de café (coffee tokens), while the final hall displays temporary arts and archaeological exhibits. (Av. Central, C. 5. ☎2243 4202. Open daily 9:30am-5pm. US$7, students US$4.)

Museo De Jade. Costa Rica’s Social Security building is an unlikely location for, reportedly, the world’s largest collection of American jade (HA-deh in Spanish), the draw of the museum. The emerald-colored mineral was of particular importance to Costa Rica’s indigenous groups, who used it for jewelry and talismans. The museum also has a small collection of tools and weapons dating back to pre-Columbian times. The exhibits have English and Spanish explanations. (Av. 7, C. 9/1. ☎2287 6034. Open M-F 8:30am-3pm, Sa 9am-1pm. US$2. MC/V.)

Parque De España And Parque Morazán. Complete with well-manicured lawns, benches, and a majestic dome that appears to have been taken straight from a Shakespearean play, but whose steps are popular with young rollerbladers, these neighboring parks are a tranquil place to rest aching feet. Sudden downpours draw crowds of students, couples, and businessmen looking to stay dry under Morazán’s dome. (Av. 3/7, C. 5/13. Free.)

Museo De Arte Costarricense. Housed in a terminal of San José’s old airport, this small museum is filled with temporary exhibitions of modern art and a permanent collection of Costa Rican nationalist art from the 19th and 20th centuries. Those with time on their hands can explore the walls of the Salón Dorado, carved and painted to look like gold, with the history of Costa Rica depicted across all four walls. Check out the sculpture garden behind the museum. For a better view of the stone courtyard and Parque La Sabana, visit the terrace. (Paseo Colón , C. 42, on the eastern edge of Parque La Sabana. ☎2222 7155; www.musarco.go.cr. Open M-F 9am-5pm, Sa-Su 10am-4pm. US$5, students US$3, free Su.)

Sneak Peak. The Centro Nacional houses the national Companies of Dance and Theater. Even if there are no performances scheduled during your visit, you will likely see the dancers, actors, or gymnasts practicing if you quietly and unobtrusively enter the building from the Parque de España .

Centro Nacional De Arte Y Cultura. This impressive fortress of the arts, between Parque de España and the National Library, offers cultural events in some of Costa Rica’s oldest edifices—buildings that have survived earthquakes and civil unrest. Two active theaters share space with the Museo de Arte y Diseño Contemporaneo, which hosts rotating exhibits by contemporary artists in a warehouse-like space. Stop by to see if a performance is running; schedules are on the lowest level near the press office and at the airport. (Av. 3, C. 15/17. Enter from the SE corner for the museum and the west side for performances. ☎2257 7202; www.mad.ac.cr. Open M-F 10:30am-5:30pm. US$2, students ¢300, free M. Performance prices vary.)

Parque Zoológico Y Jardín Botánico Nacional Simón Bolivar. Little more than a run-down, packaged version of the natural splendor that has made Costa Rica famous, this parque features spectacular creatures in cramped cages. See jaguars, squirrel monkeys, agoutis, reptiles, and tapirs. Few of the displays are in English. (Av. 11, C. 7, 300m north and 175m northwest of Parque Morazán in Barrio Amón. ☎2256 0012. Open daily 9am-4:30pm. ¢1500, ages 3-6 ¢1000, under 3 free.)

Good Times, Good Conscience. Located 2km west of Hospital Mexico in La Uruca, San José, Parque Nacional de Diversiones is the only amusement park in the world that gives all of its profits to charity. The park started as a fair to raise funds for a Children’s Hospital in 1964. Built after a polio epidemic that hit Costa Rica when it had few youth medical facilities, the current hospital still runs on funding from the park. These days, its diversiones are more diverse than ever, including roller coasters, water rides, a flight simulator, and a theater. (Free bus to the park at Av. Central/2, C. 8. ☎2242 9200; www. parque diversiones.com. Open F-Su 9am-7pm. ¢5400.)