Nicoya Peninsula Playa Hermosa

Playa Hermosa is known across the country as a prime swimming and diving beach because of its calm waters and diverse marine life: eels, octopi, and seahorses are frequently seen. As if that wasn’t enough, Playa Hermosa is perfectly situated for sunsets. Visitors might come for a beach vacation, but many end up staying for good in one of the hundreds of snazzy, mountain villas. Hermosa sits just outside of the Papagayo Gulf, which has been designated the next “it” spot for tourism. As such, Hermosa is experiencing tremendous growth, with more villas, beachside condos, and gated communities being built every day. Despite this ongoing construction, Hermosa still offers a peaceful and relaxing experience that is consistently described by travelers and locals as “muy tranquilo” —especially in comparison to its rowdy neighbor, Playa del Coco.

Buses to Hermosa depart from San José on Av. 5/7, C. 12, one block north of the Atlántica Norte Terminal (5hr., 3:20pm, ¢2000) and from Liberia (1hr., 7 per day 5am-7pm, ¢500). Taxis are available from El Coco to Playa Hermosa (15min., ¢5000). To get a taxi from Hermosa, call one from a local hotel. Out of Playa Hermosa, buses leave from Playa Panamá en route to Liberia via Sardinal, and pass both entrances to Playa Hermosa (5, 6, 10am, 2, 4, 5, 7pm; ¢500). To reach San José, catch any bus to Liberia and transfer, or go direct (5am, ¢4000).

Orientation And Practical Information

Playa Hermosa runs north-south; the beach is to the west. Playa Panamá is about 3km farther along the main road to the north. There are two entrances to the beach within walking distance of each other. MiniSuper Dayi, 150m south of the second entrance, offers food products, basic amenities, and beer, wine, and other liquor. (☎2672 0032. Open daily 7am-9pm.) A telephone can be found 150m east of the beach at the second entrance and next to Pescado Loco. Internet access is available at Villa Huétares and Villa Acacia resort, 350m east of the beach. (US$2 for 15min., US$3 for 30min., US$4 per hr. Open daily 7am-9pm.) Many of the hotels and restaurants have free Wi-Fi. Most other services are available in Playa del Coco or Sardinal.

Accommodations

Hermosa’s budget accommodations are limited. In general, those willing to pay just a bit more for a room will see a huge increase in quality, safety, and value. For groups, some of the nicer hotels have attractive group options.

• Villa Huétares (☎2672 0052), 300m west of the 2nd entrance to the beach. Huétares retains the feel of a good hotel without charging the soaring prices of its neighbors. Named after a local indigenous group, the hotel is decorated by large statues and imitation ancient pottery. The beautiful pool gets lots of sun, making up for the short walk to the ocean. A/C, Wi-Fi, and cable TV. High-/low season doubles US$80/45; triples US$90/55; quads US$100/65; 6-person rooms US$140/90.
• Cabinas la Casona (☎2672 0025; gaviotalouise@hotmail.com), 500m west of the 2nd entrance and 20m north on the road before the beach. A spacious room with posters of contemporary classics, private baths, cable TV, and kitchens await you and your thrifty, but picky, friends. Fully equipped apartments with a large bed, futon, and A/C offer a temporary haven. Patio with tables with mosaic decoration. Singles ¢15,000; doubles ¢20,000; triples ¢25,000; 6-person rooms ¢40,000; apartments ¢47,000.
• Ecotel (☎2672 0175). Walk 500m down the road from the 2nd beach entrance and turn left at the last road before the beach. The cheapest place to stay in town. Definitely for nature-lovers or those willing to rough it. The Canadian owner, Mark, is a long-time conservationist and activist for indigenous rights who offers bunk rooms, indoor lofts with views of the palm trees and their resident monkeys, or beds in the communal space, kept private by hanging sheets. You can also camp in the yard, with access to a kitchen and simple baths, or rent the whole 1st fl. of a rustic cabin with a full kitchen. Bring plenty of bug spray. Snorkel and canoe use included. Bunk rooms and singles US$15; doubles US$20. Cabin for 8 US$50. Camping US$10 per tent.
• Hotel El Velero (☎2672 1015; www.costaricahotel.net), right on the beach. The cool ocean breeze sweeps through its wide whitewashed hallways, past decorative fountains, bold draperies of Costa Rican fauna, and the aquatic-themed pool. The common area on the 2nd fl. has wicker rocking chairs and a book exchange. Offers A/C and several rooms with beach views. Sailboat tours available (5hr. sunset tour US$60 or day tour US$70 per person; includes snorkeling, lunch for the day tour or ceviche for sunset tour, and open bar). Doubles US$75, each additional person US$10, 4-person max. Ask about student discounts. Prices jump in high season. AmEx/D/MC/V.

Food And Entertainment

Restaurants are geared almost exclusively toward tourists and generally come attached to local hotels. Only a few cheap options are available (for once comida típica is not the norm), but some of the high-end restaurants are worth their high prices. Penny-pinchers will appreciate Soda Dayi right next to MiniSuper Dayi, where breakfast combos (¢2000-2500), burgers (¢1500), and other comida rápida leave both stomachs and wallets pleasantly full. (Open M-Sa 6am-7pm, Su 7am-3pm. US$/¢ only.)

• Finisterra (☎2672 0227; www.finiesterra.net). At the 1st beach entrance, follow the signs to the restaurant by walking 700m toward the beach, taking a left and walking 250m up the winding hill. Perched on a cliff, this restaurant has one of the best views of Hermosa in town. While diners enjoy that view from the vibrant Caribbean ambience, the Costa Rican chef, trained in Peru, goes to great lengths to create creative dishes, including long-time favorites like purée of yucca with seared tuna, leeks, onion, and soy (US$10) and Thai curry (US$14). Soak up the view over the unforgettable passion-fruit pie (US$5). Free Wi-Fi. Open M and W-Su 5-10pm. AmEx/D/MC/V.
• Ginger (☎2672 0041), sitting on stilts off the main road. A delightfully unique culinary experience, combining “all the flavors of the world, on a small plate.” Ginger, lemon-grass, cilantro, mint, and soy are fused throughout the menu, demonstrating the mark of Asian and Mediterranean influences. Try Ginger’s Ahi Tuna, a pepper-crusted fillet served over ginger slaw and drizzled with citrus mayonnaise (¢3000). Try the Mojitico (guaro, passion fruit, albahaca (basil), and soda; ¢3000) on the fun list of drinks for a nice prelude to this tasting experience. 2-for-1 happy hour F 5-7pm for spring and summer rolls, house margarita, house wine, and liquor. Open Tu-Su 5-10pm. MC/V.
• Pescado Loco Bar y Restaurant (☎2627 0017), 500m toward the beach from the 2nd entrance and 50m to the right. Has popular tico food and fish at prices that seem reasonable compared to nearby options. Wooden stools fill up with beer-drinking locals. Squid in its own ink ¢3400. Casados ¢2800. Open daily 8am-1am.
• El Velero (☎2672 1015), 600m west and 25m north of the 2nd beach entrance. Just back from the sand, watch the sunset while seafood experts prepare ceviche (¢3400) and whole red snapper (¢8000). W and Sa seafood BBQ, where fresh meat and seafood, cooked on an open grill, are served a la carte. Happy hour offers 2-for-1 deals on selected drinks daily 4pm-6pm. Open daily 6am-9pm. AmEx/D/MC/V/US$/¢.

Watersports

Pacific tides wash phytoplankton toward the shores of the Nicoya Peninsula, which affects the water’s visibility. In general, though, Hermosa’s calm, clear (farther out at sea) water is ideal for diving, kayaking, and waterskiing.

Diving Safaris, 500m west of the second entrance to the beach, specializes in diving and snorkeling tours. (☎2672 0012; www.costaricadiving.net. Morning dives and snorkeling 8:30am-1:30pm. 2-tank dives US$80, includes equipment. One teacher to a maximum of five students is perfect for beginner instructions and dives (US$135). Snorkeling US$40. PADI certification course also available. Open daily 7am-5pm.) It also arranges day sails and sunset sails with open bar and the option of snorkeling (US$100-165), jet-skiing, or sportfishing. It can also book surfing trips to Witch’s Rock and Ollie’s Point (7:30am-3pm; US$300, 5-person max; experienced participants only). Follow the signs from the beach’s second entrance to find Aqua Sport, which rents kayaks (US$5 per hr.), and windsurf boards (US$25 per hr., high season only). Snorkeling gear and tours (US$30; 3hr.; includes water, fruit, and kayak), trips to Witch’s Rock (US$50 per hr., 5 person max.), waterskiing, fishing tour (US$50 per person, max. 4 people, 3-4hr., includes water and food) and pedal boats (US$10 per hr.) also available. (☎2672 0050. Open M-Sa 8am-9pm, tours do not start after 2pm.) For even more adventure, try Funsealand (☎2672 1410; www.funsealand.infca.com), which sets up on the beach in front of Hotel Condovac and specializes in ATV tours (US$50 for 1½hr., US$80 for 2½hr.). Megacombo includes waverunner (1hr.), ATV (2hr.), and canopy (2hr.) tours for US$225. Treat yourself to an excellent, customized massage by trained professionals, right on the beach. (☎8868 7168. US$49, students with ID US$24.50, 25% off packages.)

Daytrip From Playa Hermosa

Playa Panamá

Buses from Liberia pass Hermosa and end in Panamá; buses stop in Hermosa at 5:30am, 7:30am, noon, 1:30, 3:30, 6, and 7pm. Buses from Panamá back to Hermosa (15min., 6 per day 5:30am-7pm, ¢300). You can walk there on the highway, among the fumes of passing trucks. The village of Playa Panamá lies a few kilometers beyond the beach itself.

At Playa Panamá, just 3km north of Hermosa, the arc of the coast makes an impressively long beach, and the water is perfect for swimming—even glassier than Hermosa, though the sand is a bit darker and the vegetation is less cared-for. The Four Seasons Hotel is staking its claim on the beaches across the Papagayo gulf, and other resorts between Hermosa and Panamá have already changed the character of the land. In addition to the Four Seasons, the “Papagayo Concession” features top-of-the-line luxury resorts such as Alegro, Fiesta Premier, and Giardini di Papagayo (and many more scheduled to come), as well as a Hilton and extravagant private houses overlooking the beach. Back on humble Playa Panamá, however, many tico families sip coconut juice and sink into beach chairs in the shade. Outdoor showers and a few, non-resort restaurants are available, though potable water is not.