Rome Centro Storico

The Centro Storico abounds with sights that are as quintessentially Roman as pasta is Italian. Luckily, you won't have to pay or wait in line to see many of them, and their close proximity to one another makes it possible to visit all these sights in one rewarding afternoon.

Pantheon, P. della Rotuna (☎06 68 30 02 30), Even without looking at your map, you're bound to stumble upon the Pantheon as you wander through the Centro Storico: signs pointing the way and crowds hovering outside will indicate that something great is coming. Corinthian columns and the large pediment atop give the edifice, which is currently under construction, the look of a Greek temple. An impressive 20 tons each, the bronze doors (originally plated in gold) leading into the Pantheon are enough to make visitors feel miniscule. Inside, the building's circular forum is full of people craning their necks to admire the perfect hemispherical dome (142 ft. in diameter and height) which, until Brunelleschi's Duomo in Florence, was the largest in the world. If you ever thought concrete was a poor man's material, think again. A mix of pumice, ash, sand, water, and chemical solidifiers, this material made the dome's casting possible by providing a viable alternative to the heavier stone blocks typically used. The coffered ceiling looks almost modern in form—a true geometrical abstraction—especially in contrast to the more traditional frescoes around it. Consider that the Pantheon's only source of light is the 27 ft. oculus at its center: over the course of the day, the beam of sun shining through it slowly moves along the temple's beautiful marble floor. (The best time to come, nevertheless, is on a rainy day, when water droplets flow directly through the central ring.) Notable for the architectural accomplishment of its design alone, the Pantheon is also a significant reflection of religious tolerance, dedicated to every god (of Ancient Rome, that is). From P. Navona, follow signs for the Pantheon toward V. della Dogana Vecchia. Free. Open M-Sa 8:30am-7:30pm, Su 9am-6pm. Wheelchair access.
Campo dei Fiori, Between P. Farnese and C. Vittorio Emanuele Cushioned between stately Palazzo Farnese one block away and the busy C. Vittorio Emanuele, Campo dei Fiori is an enclosed world of its own where students, merchants, nighttime revelers, and performers make it their home. At its center, the somewhat ominous statue of a cloaked Giordano Bruno towers above the crowds. Aside from his imposing figure, street mimes clad in ridiculous garb are the only other even remotely statuesque shapes around. During the day, check out the market where merchants sell everything from _ fish to fresh produce to v alcohol to clothes ( M-Sa 7am-2:30pm). At night, the Campo is literally abuzz with the chatter of diners, while the clink of wine glasses and the thumping of a few disco-like clubs add to the jocular clatter of this happening center for city life. From P. Navona, head towards C. Vittorio Emanuele and cut straight across to Campo dei Fiori. Watch your valuables at night. Free. Wheelchair access. Has outdoor seating.
Piazza Navona, Surrounded by V. di Santa Maria dell'Anima and C. del Rinascimento. One of Rome's most picturesque piazze,Navona is right up there with the Colosseum and the Vatican in tourist popularity. Luckily for visitors, there's neither a 4hr. line nor a hefty admission price. Rather, the oval arena, originally a stadium built by Domitian in 86 CE, is full of tourists snapping pretty pictures, mimes performing at either end, artists selling trite watercolors, and musicians playing what sounds like the soundtrack of a Frank Sinatra film. This scene makes everything you heard about “classic Italy” seem true. Weave your way through the crowds—even grab a seat if you can—to take a closer look at Bernini's magnificent Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi, a massive stone sculpture that depicts four river gods, each representing a continent. The mix of masterfully cut rock and unadulterated, raw stone makes the figures and their “natural” environment especially convincing. The obelisk at the fountain's center may seem a bit out of place, but it actu Entrances into P. Navona at Palazzo Braschi, V. Agonale, V. di Sant'Agnese di Agone, and Corsia Agonale. Wheelchair access. Has outdoor seating.
Chiesa di San Luigi dei Francesi, P. San Luigi dei Francesi 5 (☎06 68 82 71), From the exterior, this 16th-century church could easily be overlooked by pedestrians: its French facade is pretty unimpressive by Roman standards. Consequently, the surprise inside is even sweeter than it might have been. Three of Caravaggio's most impressive works, The Calling of St. Matthew, St. Matthew and the Angel, and The Crucifixion, grace the Contarelli Chapels in back. (If you're having difficulty finding them, it might be because they are not illuminated. Deposit €1 to light them up, or wait for someone else to step up.) Because they occupy the inner wall, it is slightly hard to get enough distance to view the paintings properly. However, these three works rival the private collection of Caravaggio's work held by the Galleria Borghese, so make sure to take them in as best you can. Their intense chiaroscuro, characterized by high contrast between light and dark, is characteristic of the religious and emotio From P. Navona, exit onto Corsia Agonale, turn left onto C. del Rinascimento and right onto V. Santa Giovanna d'Arco. Free. Open M-W 10am-12:30pm and 4-7pm, Th 10am-12:30pm, F-Su 10am-12:30pm and 4-7pm. No wheelchair access.
Vittorio Emanuele II Monument, In P. Venezia (☎06 67 93 526; www.risorgimento.it), The stunning Vittorio Emanuele II Monument towers—grandiose, theatrical, and triumphant—above P. Venezia. In fact, this flamboyant building remains a captivating presence. Even in far-away P. del Popolo, it towers in the distance down V. del Corso. The monument is affectionately (and a bit mockingly) referred to as “The Wedding Cake”—and justly so: its multiple tiers and pristine white facade look good enough to eat and garish enough to flaunt. Out front, huge Italian flags wave majestically as gladiators—or rather, plump men in metal garb—pose alongside confused tourists. Designed in 1884 and finally finished in 1927 by Mussolini, the huge building is as close as you can get to a giant megaphone that constantly yells out, “We are Italy! We are great!” The monument is best seen from P. Venezia or even from a few blocks away, but if you venture up its mighty steps, you'll find the Museo del Risorgimento, a slightly dull (and extremely dark) collection of artifacts tracing t In P. Venezia. Free. Monument open M-Th 9:30am-6:30pm, F-Su 9:30am-7:30pm. Museum open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. No wheelchair access.
Palazzo Venezia, V. del Plebiscito 118 (☎06 32 810; www.galleriaborghese.it), In the northwest corner of P. Venezia, the Palazzo stands out as a result of its simple, brick facade rather than any particularly beautiful or ornate characteristic. As one of Rome's first Renaissance buildings, it certainly reflects an air of stateliness and grace, though it seems like a shy, quiet wallflower in comparison to the Vittorio Emanuele II Monument across the way. Though today it is not a site of governmental power, Mussolini once used it as his headquarters. The museum inside the Palazzo holds an impressive collection of documents, tapestries, paintings from the early Renaissance, and sculptures. Across the way from Vittorio Emanuele II Monument, in P. Venezia. €4, EU citizens 18-25 €2, EU citizens under 18 and over 65 free. Open Tu-Su 8:30am-7:30pm. Ticket office closes at 6:30pm. Wheelchair access.
Piazza della Rotunda, P. della Rotunda, right outside the Pantheon The P. della Rotunda is either the antipasto or the dolce to your exploratory entree (which is the m Pantheon, in case you haven't guessed). Before or after strolling under the beautiful dome of Rome's stately temple, crowds throng around the Egyptian obelisk crowning the center of this piazza. An 18th-century monument was created out of this obelisk when Clement XI “de-paganized” it by sticking a cross on top. The somewhat whimsical fountain in the square sports serpents and sharp-toothed heads that spew water from their mouths. The piazze surrounding this central spot are noticeably less crowded but contain some monuments of their own worth checking out. Piazza della Minerva features yet another obelisk sitting atop Bernini's elephant statues, whose figures supposedly represent the powerful “mind” needed to support the obelisks' wisdom. P. di Sant'Eustachio
Fondazione Roma Museo, V. del Corso 320 (☎06 67 86 209; www.fondazioneromamuseo.it), Founded in 1999, this small museum is a place to remember due to its excellent selection of temporary art exhibits, lectures, and performances devoted to specific artists and periods in art history. Since the museum's opening, its curators have hosted approximately 30 shows in collaboration with other international museums, most recently a show devoted to Edward Hopper. The exhibitions here tend to present a retrospective of the artist's work alongside more interactive components as well as excellent commentary. Check their website for a full program of upcoming events. From Palazzo Venezia, walk up V. del Corso for 7min. Rotating exhibits usually last at least 1 month; check online for updated information. Hours may vary according to each exhibition and its demand. €10; groups, under 26, and over 65 €8; under 6 free. Open M 10am-6pm, Tu-Th 10am-8pm, F-Sa 10am-10pm, Su 10am-8pm. Ticket office closes 1hr. before museum. Wheelchair access.
Palazzo della Esposizione, V. Nazionale 194 (www.palazzoesposizioni.it), The Palazzo della Esposizione is a cultural center devoted to curating art shows as well as housing performances, lectures, and events on a monthly basis. Its huge exhibition space is an excellent venue for the diversity of programs it offers. Most recently, it held a Giorgio De Chirico retrospective, tracing the origins and development of the 20th-century Italian artist in addition to his impact on modern art and Italy. Shows usually run for at least one month and are accompanied by supplementary lectures. Check online for a more detailed program of events. From the Fori Imperiali, walk up V. Nazionale 7min. Check online for a program of upcoming shows; each usually lasts around 1 month. €12.50, under 25 and over 65 €10, disabled persons and under 6 free. Students €4 Tu-F. Free 1st W of the month 2-7pm. Open Tu-Th 10am-8pm, F-Sa 10am-10:30pm, Su 10am-8pm. Last entry 1hr. before closing. Wheelchair access.