Rome Ancient City

• COLOSSEUM, Bordered by V. di San Gregorio, V. Cello Vibenna, and V. N. Salvi (☎06 39 96 77 00; www.pierreci.it), A walk through the Colosseum provides an interesting mix of old and new—crumbling bricks and empty "cells" evoking the unfortunate ancients who once occupied them are juxtaposed against the vision of dozens of modern-day tourists who eagerly peer into the Colosseum's arena, a formerly sandy pit in which bloody (and sometimes not so bloody) combat took place. Perhaps the first thing you'll notice is the mix of architectural elements—admittedly, some of the more modern additions are attempts to keep this ancient structure from crumbling altogether. (You'll run into several construction workers assembling metal reinforcements on the ground level.) Contemporary alterations aside, the four types of architecture used to construct Rome's massive amphitheater are still evident, particularly on its northern side (the south side has been subjected to the looters of the city, who have been snatching the Colosseum's marble siding for themselves since the sixth century CE). The amphitheater's bottom tier, made of massive blocks of Travertine, was built the thickest. Its levels become lighter in both weight and appearance as you move upward. This visual "ranking" matched the organization of Roman spectators, who although given free admission, were assigned to seats in accordance with their social class. The emperor not only got VIP seating but also had the privilege of entering through the secret, "Passage of Commodus," an underground tunnel which protected him from the public. It would seem that gladiators and wild beasts were also granted this immunity (though likely for different reasons), as they too entered the Colosseum via winding corridors beneath the arena. Today, disintegrating walls and vaults covered in wooden planks are all that remain of the 15 original underground pathways. Of the 80 porticos dotting the arena's circumference, four were reserved for the emperor and the games' performers.
  For the best view of the arena, climb to the upper tiers, where you can see the structure in its entirety—a massive 188m by 156m oval. Looking down, you'll get a feel for what it was like to witness the combats that took place in this arena. Most famously, this was the place where gladiators, men who could be anything from slaves to convicts to prisoners, to emperors (actually, the only one on record is Commodus, the emperor after whom the Colosseum is named) met for battle in the frenzy of the Roman games. Trained from the age of 17 and given rankings based on the number of fights they won, these combatants were seldom actually killed as they usually begged for mercy when defeat seemed imminent. It wasn't until the Middle Ages that massacre became the norm. Ranking had its own taxonomy, complete with scientific-sounding names (Retiarius, Oplomachus and Cruppellarius to name a few) and armor specific to the fighter's status. Check out the detailed costume and weaponry exhibits in display cases on the upper level. If you want to see the gladiator armor on something other than a stuffed mannequin, consider getting your picture taken with one of the costumed dudes accosting middle-aged women around the concession stands out front (usually €5). Probably bloodier than fights between the gladiators were those between wild animals, since back in ancient Rome there was no ASPCA watching out for the beasts used in executions and staged combat. Bones from some of the biggest animals, including the Libyan bears and giant ostriches, are also on display beside the armor.
  While the arena takes center stage for most visitors, peer around the back side for a great view of the Arch of Constantine, the tree-lined V. San Gregorio, and the Roman Forum just across the way. Tickets to the Colosseum can be purchased at the Palatine Hill/Roman Forum entrance on V. San Gregorio. Head there midday, after the early morning frenzy, to avoid waiting in a 2hr. line at the Colosseum. B: Colosseo or Termini, then bus #75. Open daily 8:30am until 1hr. before sunset. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access.
• ARCO DI CONSTANTINE, V. San Gregorio, South of the Colosseum near the Palatine Hill entrance. Although most people only pass the Arch of Constantine on the way to the Colosseum or the Roman Forum across the street, its size and beauty are reason enough to seek it out. Towering an impressive 70 ft. over the V. San Gregorio, the arch stands in commemoration of Constantine's victory over Maxentius at the Battle of the Milvian Bridge in 312 CE. Despite the metal gates that prevent visitors from walking through the arch, those interested can take a closer look at the beautiful engravings and inscriptions depicting Constantine's battles and victories that etch the structure. The Romans, who seem awfully good at “borrowing” things (check out the torn-away marble sections of the Colosseum), continued the tradition here, decorating the side of the arch with medallions stolen from other monuments nearby. There's something to be said for kleptomania after all. B: Colosseo or Termini, then bus #75. Walk down V. San Gregorio from the Colosseum. Free. Wheelchair access.
• ROMAN FORUM, A walk through the Roman Forum provides a pleasant (though somewhat bumpy) one-hour respite from the busy city just outside its gates, even if you don't know a bit of history or read a single plaque. Chances are, though, you did pay €12 for a walk in the park. For that, try the Domus Aurea. To justify spending cash on ruins instead of gelato, consider picking up an audio tour that will at least clue you in to the history of a few of the sections you'll pass. There aren't many informational plaques along the way, so unless you're enough of a Latin scholar to understand the original inscriptions, your map (provided at the ticket office) and audio tour are the only things helping you tell your Tempios from your Basilicas.
  Your route through the Roman Forum depends on the entrance you choose. Although the lines at this site tend to be significantly shorter than those for the Colosseum, you can make them even shorter by coming in the mid- to late afternoon, when the early-morning crowds have died off. The free map of the Forum suggests that its main entrance is at V. Largo Ricci, though the lines may be shorter at V. San Gregorio.
  Walking in, you will see a stunning view of the Forum, a plot of land used as a marketplace by the Greeks and Etruscans of the seventh and eighth centuries. Today, the area consists mostly of grassy and gravelly paths, crumbling temples, and a few reconstructed sites that contain most of the history of the place. The central area is lowest to the ground; as you move out, the pathways become more elevated. Because of this topographical fact, even those who don't purchase a ticket inside can get great views of the Forum's layout from the street.
  Walk down Via Sacra, the oldest street in Rome, which runs through the center of the Forum. To the right, you'll find the remains of the Basilica Fulvia-Aemilia, originally built in 179 BCE by two Marcuses—Fulvia and Aemilia—but then renovated by the Aemilia family, perhaps as a mode of self-promotion. If you're having trouble finding the basilica, that's because it no longer exists—just the skeleton of a floor plan and some remains housed under a roof are still here. Step inside the Curia, originally the meeting place of the Senate, for a museum-like display of coins, columns, and recovered friezes that once decorated the basilica, including The Rape of the Sabine Women. Outside again, you'll find the Temple of Saturn and the Basilica Julia flanking the sides of the central area. Duck into the tiny hut dedicated to Caesar, where flowers and photos add a bit of color to the dirt-covered area. The Temp B: Colosseo or Termini, then bus #75. Enter at V. San Gregorio (near the Arch of Constantine), V. dei Fori Imperiali (halfway between Trajan's column and the Colosseum), or directly opposite the Colosseum. Entrance to the Forum is joint with that to the Palatine Hill, a neighboring sight. Tickets are purchased for entrance to the Colosseum, Palatine Hill, and the Roman Forum, 1 entrance per sight, used over the course of 2 days. €12, EU students ages 18-24 €7.50, EU citizens under 18 and over 65 free. Audio tour to the Forum €4, combined with the Palatine €6; available in English. Open daily 8:30am until 1hr. before sunset. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access.
• PALATINE HILL, The Palatine Hill, occupying the stretch of elevated land between V. dei Cerchi, V. di San Gregorio, and V. di San Teodoro, was once the place to live (even Cicero and Mark Antony had their homes here). Today, it consists mostly of grassy patches and ruined temples, though it still provides some of the best views of the city and the adjacent Roman Forum. At the very least, bring a camera, some water, and maybe a sandwich for a pleasant stroll through its grounds.
  Entering at V. San Gregorio, you can either head right (which will lead you into the Roman Forum) or left (which will lead you to the Palatine Hill). The ascent up the hill is a bit steep and winding, but some convenient steps make getting to the top much easier and faster. On the left, you'll find the Stadium and Severan Complex whose huge territory was once used as a riding school. Immediately onward is the Domus Augustana. (Its lower floor is on the left, the upper on the right.) Cushioned between the domus's remnants is the Palatine Museum, which houses a small collection of statues, tiles, busts, and other archaeological items from wealthy Roman households. (Open daily 8am-4pm, 30 people per fl., 20min. at a time. Free.) Next along your walk is the start of the Domus Flavia, a huge region which includes reception rooms, a peristyle, and the Nymphaeum, a space which houses an octagonal fountain that once covered the entire area and symbolized power but today is dried up. The Casa di Livia, sectioned between, was property of the Roman aristocracy during the first century BCE and today provides a welcome escape from the sun. Play a little "Theseus and the Minotaur" (a classic game for children circa 200 BCE), and walk through the surrounding labyrinth of dank tunnels containing placards that describe the area. The Casa di Augustus and the Casa di Romolo are immediately on the left, surrounded by tiny Romulean Huts. Most scenic of all are the Farnese Gardens, which offer an unparalleled vista of the Roman Forum, the Colosseum, and Capitoline Hill. They're also a good place to stop for a picnic (which some travelers supplement with oranges from one of the nearby trees). Descend the stairs to check out the Nymphaeum of the Rain, a small cave with running water. B: Colosseo or Termini, then bus #75. Enter at V. San Gregorio (near the Arch of Constatine), V. dei Fori Imperiali (halfway between Trajan's column and the Colosseum), or directly opposite the Colosseum. Next to the Roman Forum. Tickets are purchased for entrance to the Colosseum, Palatine Hill, and the Roman Forum, 1 entrance per sight, used over the course of 2 days. €12, EU students ages 18-24 €7.50, EU citizens under 18 and over 65 free. Audio tour to the Palatine Hill €4, combined with the Forum €6, available in English. Open daily 8:30am until 1hr. before sunset. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access.
• FORI IMPERIALI, V. dei Fori Imperiali (☎06 67 97 702), Walking— down V. dei Fori Imperiali, it's impossible to miss—you guessed it—the Imperial Fora. Built in the 150 years after Caesar's reign, the four fora located here marked a new period of Roman dominance that ushered in a return to Hellenistic architecture. The open area enclosed by a colonnade to sequested the venter from the surrounding, urban activity was the place where the business of the forum took place. This central region used for government affairs was topped off by a small temple decorated with friezes and paintings commissioned by the day's rule to display his financial and political power. The first two fora were constructed by Caesar and Augustus, the next (christened the "Forum of Peace" to mark a calmer period in the empire's history) by Vespasian, and the last (called the Forum of Nerva) by Domitian. Down the way, you'll find the biggest forum of all, the Forum of Trajan, built between 107 and 113 CE.
  In 1924, some of the land that once held the fora was paved over to make way for V. dei Fori's modern-day, less-than-regal central thoroughfare. Although the grounds themselves have been closed to the public for years, you can still admire them from the sidewalk, pick up a map of them at the tourist office and give yourself a tour, or explore them on a guided tour. From the Colosseum, walk down V. dei Fori Imperiali. Ruins are on the right. Call the tourist office above for more information. Free. Exhibition and info center open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. Wheelchair access.
• DOMUS AUREA, Vle. della Domus Aurea 1 (Colle Oppio Gardens) (☎06 39 96 7700), The expansive grounds of Domus Aurea sit between the Colosseum and busy V. Merulana. Shallow hills, patches of grass, and small children's playgrounds make a walk through this park a refreshing change of pace from the tourist crowds just next door. In the morning and early evening, the park is especially populated with dog walkers and joggers. Although you probably aren't here to see any monuments (by now, you might be eager to escape them), make sure to check out the Trajan Baths, which lie near the V. delle Terme di Traiano. From the Colosseum, walk down V. Terme di Tito. Park is on the right and continues until V. Merulana Free. Open daily 7am-9pm. Wheelchair access.
• CHIESA DI SAN PIETRO IN VINCOLI, P. di San Pietro in Vincoli, 4/a (☎06 97 844 950), Sitting atop a small hill just off V. Cavour, this fourth-century church houses Michelangelo's famous statue of Moses. After gazing at the bigger-than-life sculpture, take some time to admire the brightly colored frescoed ceilings and meander through the clean, white colonnade. From V. Cavour turn onto V. S. Francis di Pacia and walk down V. Eudossiana. The church is on the left. Fully covered legs and shoulders required. Free. Open daily 8am-12:30pm, 3-6pm. No wheelchair access.
• CIRCUS MAXIMUS, It's only logical to pay a visit to the Circus Maximus after a long tour of the Colosseum and the Palatine Hill. While only a shadow of what it used to be (since it no longer exists and therefore actually can't cast a shadow), the Circus Maximus rounds out the key sights of your tour through Ancient Rome. At the end of V. di San Gregorio (near the P. di Porta Capena), this grassy plot of land was once Rome's largest stadium, home to more than 300,000 screaming Romans who came to watch the chariot races. Now, the fields only reach similar volumes during summer concerts and city celebrations, scheduled on a monthly basis. The best view of the long track is either from within the elevated Palatine Hill (where Emperor Augustus used to sit) or from the V. del Circo Massimo, which has fewer cars and is also slightly elevated (unlike the V. dei Cerchi). Other than tourists hoping to enjoy the view from these vantage points, dog walkers, joggers, and even some sunbathers come here to get away B: Circo Massimo or bus #118. Free. Wheelchair access.
• THE VELABRUM, Amid all the nearby monuments boasting elevated views of the city, the Velabrum may feel a bit subterranean, but don't let that turn you off. The ruins in this valley blend into the surrounding neighborhood in a way that would be simply impossible for a structure the size of the Colosseum. You can approach the Velabrum from the waterfront (Ponte Palatino practically leads straight into it) or on V. Petroselli coming from the Teatro di Marcello, a round structure that looks remarkably like the Colosseum..perhaps because it was the model for Rome's most famous ruin. The Portico d'Ottavia, now only a skeleton of columns, sits at the corner of V. del Portico d'Ottavia, but the real star of the square is the Chiesa di Santa Maria in Cosmedin, a medieval church whose facade holds the famous Bocca della Verità. According to legend (and Gregory Peck in Roman Holiday), he who places his hand in the stone mouth will have it bi From the Circo Massimo, walk down V. dei Cerchi until you reach P. S. Anastasia. The Velabrum and its sights are in the flat region at the base of the hill. Free. Church open daily 9:30am-5:50pm. Wheelchair access.
• CAPITOLINE HILL, Rome's small but magnificent capital sits nestled between the Vittorio Emanuele II Monumentand the Roman Forum. From both these sights, views of the little Capitoline Hill are hard to miss. Coming up V. Arco di Settimio at the backside of the hill, you'll arrive at the Piazza di Campidoglio, designed by Michelangelo in 1536. At the center of the piazza sits an equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius. It's actually a replica of the original, which you can view in a weatherproof chamber located in the Palazzo Nuovo. Still, this oft-photographed bronze statue is an impressive monument to one of Rome's more philosophically-inclined emperors. Piazza di Campidoglio is ringed by the Capitoline Museums. which hold a treasure trove of Roman and Greek sculpture as well as the oldest public collection of ancient art in the world. If you instead arrive at the piazza from V. del Teatro Marcello, you will be forced to From V. dei Fori Imperiali, veer left towards the Monumento a Vittorio Emanuele II. Turn onto V. Teatro Marcello and head uphill Capitoline Museums €6.50, EU citizens age 18-25 €4.50, EU citizens under 18 and over 65 free. Audio tour €5. Available in English. Capitoline Museums open Tu-Su 9am-8pm. Ticket office closes 1hr. before museums close. No wheelchair access.
• CHIESA DI SANTA MARIA IN ARACOELI, While its exterior boasts nothing more than a dull wall of bricks, Chiesa di Santa Maria in Aracoeli's stunning pink-and-gold interior will reward those hardy enough to climb all 124 steps leading to its entrance. Built in the seventh century, this small church houses the Bufalini Chapel (to the right of the altar), decorated with Renaissance-era frescoes by Pinturicchio, and the even more entrancing Cappella del San Bambino (to the left of the altar), wallpapered with letters from sick children. Even if you don't spend much time in the church, take more than a minute to admire the exceptional view of the city from this vantage point. Five prominent domes dot the city's skyline, including the Dome of St. Peter's and, closest of all, the Cupola della Chiesa del Gesù. For an even better view of the city, consider taking the Roma dal Cielo elevator ride, which takes you up to the Terrace of the Quadrigas. From Teatro Marcello, climb 124 steps to reach the church's perch. Fully covered shoulders and legs required. €7, ages 10-18 and over 65 €3.50. Open M-Th 9:30am-6:30pm, F-Su 9:30am-7:30pm. Last ticket sold 45min. before close. No wheelchair access.