Rome Trastevere

Ahhh, Trastevere. With old cobblestone streets, hidden-away trattorias, and bustling nightlife, this oft-forgotten gem of a neighborhood is not one to miss. Even if you're only in Rome a few days, ditch some of those churches you had planned to visit and head across the Tiber to enjoy more intimate piazze,basilicas that rival their more-famous brethren on the other side of the river, and a tight-knit community proud of their unpretentious neighborhood. Cross the Ponte Garibaldi to make your way directly onto Piazza G. Belli, which holds the triumphant statue of poet Giuseppe Gioachino Belli. V. Trastevere runs through the neighborhood, and if not the most scenic of streets, it is still a reliable place to find cheap eats or clothes. To the left, most of the streets are fairly quiet but full of restaurants and small shops. By contrast, the right side of Trastevere contains most of the neighborhood's activity—turn right onto V. della Lungaretta to arrive at Piazza di Sant'Apolloniaand the nearby Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere. Both are full of commotion and are more touristed than the rest of the neighborhood. Just at the end of the Ponte Sisto, Piazza Trilussa offers proximity to nightlife spots as well as scenic views of the river, making it particularly popular with students. Piazza San Cosimato, off of V. Luciano Manara, boasts an outdoor market selling fresh fruit, vegetables, and fish.

ISOLA TIBERINA, With most of Rome's major sights located further “inland,” tourists tend to forget about Rome's river, the Fiume Tevere, and the land out yonder. On your way to Trastevere, take the tiny Ponte Fabriccio (a.k.a. the Ponte dei Quattro Capi), which, in case you couldn't tell by its name, bears four stone heads, allegedly those of the architects who originally restored the bridge. You'll find yourself standing on Isola Tiberina, a small plot of land that, according to legend, is actually composed of the silt-covered bodily remains of Tarquin, an Etruscan ruler who was thrown in the river for raping the beautiful Lucretia. The island is only home to a few establishments, so most people only stay to check out the hard-to-pronounce Fatebenefratelli Hospital, which looks more like a church than a healing facility. If you want to stick around, head down the slope to the open expanse directly on the river. A few people might be fishing, but more will be lying in From V. del Teatro Marcello, walk towards the water and onto Lungomare dei Pierleoni. Turn left and cross Ponte Fabricio. Free. Wheelchair access.
GIANICOLO HILL, While manmade monuments (or at least their remains) take center stage in Central Rome, those in Trastevere are rivaled by the neighborhood's natural wonders. The highest peak in this part of Rome, Gianicolo Hill, is a large expanse of land highlighted by the Fonte Acqua Paola, a fountain that marks the end of an aqueduct honoring Pope Paul V. While the crystal-blue pool of water and elaborate white facade above it are marvels of human design, the surrounding landscape really steals the show. If you continue up the winding (and steep) V. Garibaldi, you'll come to the site of what was once the Porta San Pancrazio (the main gate built around Gianicolo to protect Rome from raids), which, since the French raids in the late 1800s, has been replaced. It seems the French were not always known for raising the white flag.. From Fonte Aqua Paola, continue uphill, onto V. Aldo Fabrizi and enter the park. You will pass Monumento a Garibaldi on the pleasant walk. Free. Wheelchair access.
CHIESA DI SANTA MARIA IN TRASTEVERE, P. Santa Maria in Trastevere (☎06 58 14 802), Located in the heart of Trastevere, this church is a tourist favorite, and for good reason: beautiful mosaics decorating the facade are matched by an equally stunning gold interior where more mosaics depicting Jesus, Mary, and a slew of other Biblical figures grace the apse. This chiesa was the first in Rome built exclusively for the Virgin Mary. The piazza out front is a lovely place to admire this Byzantine structure. From Vle. Trastevere, turn right onto V. San Francesco a Ripa and walk 5min. until you get to the Free. Open M-F 9am-5:30pm. Wheelchair access.
BOTANICAL GARDENS, Largo Cristina di Svezia 23A. (☎06 49 91 71 07), The Botanical Gardens are located on the flat area of land adjacent to Giancolo Hill. With over 3500 types of flora, ranging from bamboo in the Japanese garden to roses first grown in Rome during the Baroque Period, this oasis of green is a sharp contrast to most of Rome's drier and duller patches of natural land. Check out the Garden for the Blind, a star-shaped region with labels written in Braille. Walk to the end of V. Corsini until you reach Largo Cristina di Svezia. €4, ages 6-11 and over 59 €2. Open Tu-Su 9:30am-6:30pm. Closed in Aug. Wheelchair access.