Rome The Appian Way And Environs

The Appian Way, V. Appia Antica (☎06 51 35 316; www.parcoappiaantica.it), When you've had your way with Rome's busy corsi, it might be time to try the Appian on for size. Stretching 16km from Porta San Sebastiano to Frattocchie, it tends to be a little big for most people: walking itineraries generally end around the Tomb of Cecilia Metella, though the road extends another 5-6 mi. Don't expect that first stretch to be all dirt roads surrounded by fields and crumbling aqueducts. Since being paved over, the Appian Way has become, somewhat unfortunately, a modern-day reincarnation of its ancient self: a very busy road. That means you'll see your fair share of whizzing cars and walking tourists as you follow the street.
In the third century, V. Appia Antica—the main branch of the trail—extended about a mile from Porta Capena to Porta S. Sebastiano. Today that stretch has become V. delle Terme di Caracalla and V. di Porta San Sebastiano, and the true "Way" officially begins after you exit the Aurelian walls. At the time of its use, the ancient road served as the burial ground of the highest Romans and early Christians, since they were forbidden to keep their tombs within the city walls. Legends who actually walked the road included Virgil, Saint Peter, and Spartacus, each of whom left a trail of history behind him—in the case of Spartacus, a trail of bodies. If you plan on walking this stretch, keep in mind that its cobblestone ground practically shakes with buses and scooters zooming by, and there's little shoulder reserved for pedestrians. As the road merges into V. Appia Antica, the din doesn't stop until you reach the tourist office, where you'll need to make a decision about what roads to take. For the most scenic path, head up the slightly inclined road leading to San Callisto (closed W), where you can see countryside and bushes of pink flowers from the elevated path. V. Appia Antica and V. Ardeatina on either side are traversed by buses.
The main attractions on this initial strip are the third-century catacombs, underground passageways full of bodies, sarcophagi, and paintings. For the more nature-inclined traveler, the true attractions will not start until after Cecilia Metella, where you can walk on the road's original paving stones and gaze at miles of unsullied land. If that sounds more appealing to you but you don't want to wander that far south, consider walking down V. della Caffarella (to the left of V. Appia Antica) and the pedestrian trails surrounding it instead of hitting the catacombs. (And at a hefty fee of €8 each, you'll be seeing fewer bones of the dead-person variety and more of the cash-monies kind by bypassing them completely.) Either way, bring yourself a picnic lunch to avoid a stop at the overpriced restaurants along the way. A: San Giovanni. Head through Porta San Giovanni and into the Info office is located at V. Appia Antica 42, right before Domine Quo Vadis. It offers bike rental, free maps, historical pamphlets, a self-service bus ticket machine, and opportunities for activities along the way. For information on Archeobus tours leaving from Termini, call ☎800 281 281 or visit www.trambusopen.com. Road and park free. Bike rental €3 per hr., €10 per day. Archeobus taking you from Termini through the park with audio tour €10. Info office open in summer M-Sa 9:30am-1:30pm and 2-5:30pm, Su 9:30am-5:30pm; in fall, winter, and spring M-Sa 9:30am-1:30pm and 2-4:30pm, Su 9:30am-4:30pm. Road is closed to cars on Su, making it the best day to walk the trail. Archeobus tours every 30min. 9:30am-4pm. Wheelchair access.
Catacombo di San Sebastiano, V. Appia Antica 136 (☎06 78 50 350; www.catacombe.org), Though not quite as long as San Callisto, the 160,000 tombs making up San Sebastiano's catacombs give them a weighty status. Among the thousands of bodies, those of Saints Peter and Paul are perhaps most renowned, placed here during a harsh period of Christian persecution in the third century. Though the catacombs comprise four levels, only the second is accessible to tourist crowds—check out the symbols lining the wall. If you need something to take away as a souvenir, head to the gift shop for some jewelry reproductions. Bus #218 to stop near San Callisto and Santa Domitilla. Walk down V. Sette Chiese to V. Appia Antica and turn right. Catacombs accessible only on guided tours (available in English). Tours leave every 30min. from the ticket office. €8, ages 6-15 €5. Open M-W 9am-noon and 2-5pm, F-Su 9am-noon and 2-5pm. Closed Nov 22-Dec 20. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access.
Basilica di San Sebastiano, V. Appia Antica 136 (www.catacombe.org), One of the road's few respites that doesn't require a subterranean retreat, an entrance fee, and a tour guide to appreciate, the basilica, reflecting its somewhat modern restructuring (17th-century “modern,” that is), is not as dark and ornate as some of Rome's more central churches but attracts a large crowd to admire its Bernini masterpiece, Jesus Christ the Redeemer, finished when the Baroque master had reached the ripe old age of 81. Look up to the ceiling for a magnificent wood relief of St. Sebastian pincushioned with arrows sticking out from his sides. It would seem that the Roman army had a pretty harsh “don't ask, don't tell” policy when it came to religious matters. Poor Captain Sebastian was shot with arrows and left to die after the military brass discovered that he was actually a Christian. When he managed to survive the barrage of projectiles, his persecutors resorted to the next best thing: death by clubbing. Bus #218 to stop near San Callisto and Santa Domitilla. Walk down V. Sette Chiese to V. Appia Antica and right. Free. Open daily 8am-6pm. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access.
Catacombo San Callisto, V. Appia Antica 110 (☎06 51 30 15 80; www.sdb.org), Twenty kilometers long and 20m deep, the Catacombs of San Callisto could be their own Appian Way. As Rome's oldest burial ground for Christians, the catacombs contain a mighty collection of corpses: 56 martyrs and 18 saints, many of whom were popes. If the thought of dead bodies isn't so aesthetically pleasing to you, check out the wall paintings which line the narrow passageways. There's a copy of The Good Shepherd at the entrance. From P. di San Giovanni in Laterano, take bus #218 to Fosse Ardeatine. From Circo Massimo or Ostiense, take bus #118 to Catacombe di San Callisto. Catacombs accessible only on guided tours (available in English). Tours leave every 30min. from the ticket office. €8, ages 6-15 €5. Open Mar-Jan M-Tu 9am-noon and 2-5pm, Th-Su 9am-noon and 2-5pm. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access.
Porta San Sebastiano and Museo della Mura, V. di Porta San Sebastiano 18 (☎06 70 47 52 84; www.museodellemuraroma.it), At the end of the car-crammed path leading to the start of the Appian Way, this massive archway, the largest and best-preserved of the original Aurelian walls, remains. You've survived the cars and can now enjoy the small museum inside, but back in the third century, invaders would meet their death here. After being trapped inside, they would be massacred by archers. While the museum is intriguing, the scenic view offered from its terrace is a particular highlight if you expect to spend the rest of the afternoon in underground catacombs. Bus #218. Get off at intersection of V. Mura Latine and V. Appia Antica. €3, EU citizens ages 18-25 €1.50, under 18 and over 65 free. Open Tu-Su 9am-2pm. Last entry 30min. before close. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access.
Domine Quo Vadis?, At the intersection of V. Appia Antica and V. Ardeatina (☎06 51 20 441; www.catacombe.org), Even its questioning name reflects the speculation that surrounds this tiny church. Supposedly, Christ's d footprints are set in stone up the middle aisle, though San Sebastiano down the way claims the same novelty. (Sounds like something we've heard before at the Vatican.) The church's name derives from the question St. Peter asked Christ when he feared the Lord was fleeing Rome. Christ replied he was returning to the city to be crucified. St. Peter was eventually dealt that very same fate, though he requested to be hung upside down, not believing himself enough of his master's equal to meet death in the same way. Though speculation surrounds the footprints, the tourist office's brochures indicate that this church is winning the debate. Bus #218. Free. Open in summer M-Sa 8am-7:30pm, Su 8:15am-7:40pm; in winter M-Sa 8am-6:30pm, Su 8:15am-6:45pm. No wheelchair access.