Arnhem Land Overview

Take the expansive wilderness of Kakadu, multiply it by 10, and you still won’t do justice to Arnhem Land. Sprawling across the entire northeastern region of the Top End, this Aboriginal homeland was established in 1931, and its geography and local law keep it isolated from the rest of the continent. Though much of Arnhem Land is uninhabited, it has two towns (Oenpelli and Nhulunbuy), several settlements, and around 150 indigenous outposts. Be aware that while many residents of Arnhem Land welcome tourism and its revenues, there are also those who would prefer to see their land free from swarms of outsiders.

Venturing into Arnhem Land is a serious matter. There are very few roads (those that do exist are navigable only in the Dry), and virtually no signs or services. Moreover, Arnhem Land is usually accessible only to indigenous peoples, so a destination-specific permit is required to enter. The Northern Land Council in the Jabiru Shopping Centre, next to the library, can issue permits for three locations close to Kakadu. (☎08 8937 3000. Open M-F 8am-4:30pm.) Permits for Injalak (IN-yaluk; $13.20 per day) and for Sandy Creek and Wunyu Beach (5 days, $88 per vehicle) take 10 days to process. To venture to the secluded beaches and wildlife of Gurig National Park on the Cooburg Peninsula, contact the Parks and Wildlife Commission of the Northern Territory . (☎08 8999 4814. 7 nights, $232 per vehicle.) If you’re venturing to Nhulunbuy on the Central Arnhem Hwy., permits are available through the Northern Land Council in Katherine (see Central Arnhem Highway, ). For permits to other sections of Arnhem Land, contact Darwin’s Northern Land Council (☎08 8920 5100).

For those seeking experienced guides, tours of Arnhem Land are available. Multi-day tours with flights from Darwin can cost thousands of dollars; 4WD daytrips from Kakadu are cheaper. Lord’s Kakadu and Arnhemland Safaris departs from Jabiru. (☎08 8948 2200; www.lords-safaris.com. $195, children $155.)