Amorgos Town Overview

Also known as Chora, the island’s small, untouristed capital lies 6km uphill from the harbor at the top of the mountains. An example of Byzantine village planning, Chora’s winding streets were constructed to deter and confuse raiding pirates. They now allow visitors to meander along the narrow, cafe-lined walk to Plateia Loza, at the far end of town. Sights include a 14th-century Venetian fortress, a row of 10 defunct windmills on the mountain ledge above town, numerous Byzantine churches, and the first secondary school in Greece, built in 1821. The remnants of Amorgos’s Minoan civilization are visible in the statues and relief carvings at the Archaeological Museum, across from Zygos Cafe and downhill from the large church at Pl. Loza. The museum displays unsigned inscriptions and sculptures from Minoa in a small courtyard and indoor area. (☎22850 29 279. Open Tu-Su 8:30am-3pm. Free.)

Rugged mountains and a placid coast run alongside the road from Chora to Aegiali. The clearly marked, sunny 4hr. hike begins behind Chora and stretches up the mountains to Potamos. Forty minutes into the hike, you’ll find the crumbling Byzantine church of Christososmas (The Body of Christ) hewn out of a small cave that was once a hermit dwelling. The trail ascends past a series of monasteries before descending to views of miniature Nikouria Island. Deserted Agios Mammas church is the last significant marker before Potamos appears. From Potamos, hikers can walk 15min. to catch the bus in Aegiali to return to Chora (€2).

If you decide to spend the night in Chora, you can strike a deal with the domatia owners who meet your boat, or look for “rooms to let” signs along side streets. The reception for Pension Ilias is along the road from Chora to the monastery, while the rooms are one street uphill. Each room has bath, TV, A/C, hotpot, fridge, and a common balcony with views of the valley below; the apartments include full kitchens. (☎22850 71 277. Free transportation from the port. Doubles €25-55; apartments €50-80. Cash only.) Zygos , on the cafe-lined alley below Pl. Loza, serves coffee (€1.50-3), breakfast from 9-1pm (€4-6), homemade sangria, and mixed drinks (€5) on a vine-roofed patio. The comfy shaded tables are a perfect setting for a leisurely afternoon. (☎22850 71 350. Open daily 8am-3:30am. Free internet for patrons. Cash only.) Liotrivi , near the bakery on the road to the monastery, puts delicious twists on Greek standards— kalogiros (eggplant with veal, feta, gouda, and tomato; €7.90) and exohiko (lamb and vegetables in pastry shell) are the creative house specialties. (☎22850 71 700. Entrees €7-10. Open daily May-Oct. 12:30pm-midnight. MC/V.) The relaxed cafe downstairs at Bayoko, by the bus station, caters to people-watchers and music aficionados, with live jazz performances three times a week. Upstairs, at one of Chora’s only clubs, nightly DJs spin Greek dance hits over the small dance floor from 9pm until dawn. (Beer €3-5. Ouzo €2. Mixed drinks €7. Cash only.)

The police are in the main plateia with the big church, by Cafe Loza. (☎22850 71 210. Open daily 8am-2pm.) A 24hr. ATM is located below the bus stop next to the mini market. The pharmacy is opposite the bus stop. (☎22850 73 391. Open M-F 9:30am-2pm and 5:30-9:30pm, Sa 10am-2pm and 6-9:30pm, Su 10:30am-2pm and 6-8:30pm.) The medical center sits below the bus stop on the main road into Chora from Katapola. (☎22850 71 207. Open M-F 9am-2:30pm.) Chora is home to the main post office (☎22850 71 250; open M-F 7:30am-2pm), in a corner beyond Pl. Loza. Western Union available.