Galveston Island Overview

Although only an hour from Houston (51 mi. south), Galveston is a destination in its own right. Over 6000 historic buildings stand testament to the fact that it was once the largest and most powerful city in Texas. Things changed in 1900, when a devastating hurricane ripped through the city and claimed 6000 lives. By 1915 Houston had built its ship channel and Galveston lost its key role in the maritime industry. Today, the 32 mi. island is powered mainly by tourism, offering much-needed respite from the Houston heat.

On the north side of the city, the historic commercial district, known as The Strand, boasts one of the largest collections of commercial Victorian buildings in the US. Trolleys clang along historic tracks that follow two routes, one to the University of Texas Medical School and one to Seawall Beach ($1.25). Free Wi-Fi hotspots are available at 23rd and Strand, 37th and Seawall, and 6th and Seawall. Of the numerous museums along the Strand, two of the best explore the industries that made this region great. The  Galveston Railway Museum, 123 Rosenburg St., at the Strand’s west end, housed in the restored Art Deco Union Station, pays homage to that history with displays, model trains, and, best of all, dozens of actual trains spanning an entire century. There has been no restoration; everything is in its original state, for better or for worse. With no off-limits areas, visitors are free to explore every corner of the trains, from the luxurious Pullman car parlors to the kitchen galleys to the locomotive cabs. (☎765-5700. Open daily 10am-4pm. $6, seniors $5, ages 4-12 $3. AAA discount $1.) The one-of-a-kind  Ocean Star Offshore Energy Center, Pier 19, Harborside Dr. at 20th St., demystifies the oil drilling rigs that dot the Gulf of Mexico horizon. The museum is located on a retired oil rig anchored just offshore and can only be reached by a causeway. Explore the history, science, politics, and ecology of off-shore drilling, then head out to the deck of the rig to see the equipment up close. (☎766-7827. Open daily June-Aug. 10am-6pm; Sept.-May 10am-5pm. $6, seniors $5, ages 7-18 $4.)

In addition to The Strand, there are three other national historic districts in Galveston. Primarily residential, these are best explored on foot. Pick up a map at the Visitors Center to see the districts’ exact boundaries of the districts. Although most of the historic buildings are private homes, a few are open to public tours, including the elegant Moody Mansion, 2618 Broadway, at 26th St., former home of Galveston’s leading family, which contains original furnishings and stunning stained glass. (☎762-7668. Open M-Sa 10am-4pm, Su noon-4pm. $6, seniors $5, ages 6-18, $3.) Three glass pyramids house a tropical rainforest, aquarium, science museum, and IMAX theater at Moody Gardens, 1 Hope Blvd., a tourist-oriented theme park. The grounds themselves are well-manicured and free to the public. (From Seawall Blvd., take a right on 81st St. ☎683-4200 or 800-582-4673; www.moodygardens.com. Open daily in summer 10am-9pm; winter 9am-6pm.)

The real reason most people come to Galveston is for the beaches. Taking its name from the seawall that protects Galveston from hurricanes, Seawall Boulevard runs along the Gulf Coast and is full of cheap eats. The beach along Seawall Blvd. is free, and so is the street parking. For more amenities, head to one of the parks farther down the island, such as #3 Beach Pocket Park, which has restrooms, showers, playgrounds, and a concession stand. (Open M-F 9am-5pm, Sa-Su 9am-6pm. $8 per car.) The only beach in Galveston that permits alcoholic beverages is East Beach, on the eastern edge of the island. Because of the booze, live music, and weekend bikini contests, it’s more commonly known as “Party Beach.” (www.eastbeachparty.com. $7; M-F after 5pm and Sa-Su after 7:30pm free.) For an even more raucous time, teenagers and college students take the free ferry to Port Bolivar and then drive to Crystal Beach, fondly dubbed “The Zoo” because of the abundance of booze, firecrackers, and bonfires. (Ferry operates 24hr., but the line is often over 1hr. long.) One of only four hostels in the state of Texas, HI-Galveston 1, 201 Seawall Blvd., at the northern tip of town, is located inside the Sandpiper Motel and offers direct beach access, coffee, laundry, kitchen, a computer with Internet access, and a pool. The doors lock at 11pm but the 24hr. staff will let you in late. (☎765-9431; www.sandpipermotel.com. Dorms $18.50. HI members only). The oldest restaurant on the island, The Original 2, 1401 Market St. dishes up tasty Tex-Mex, with enchilada plates starting at $5.50. (☎762-6001. Open M-Th 11am-9pm, F-Sa 8am-10pm, Su 8am-9:30pm.)