New York City New York City Harlem Food
The now-distant southern roots of Harlem's African-American community live on through the soul food brought from below the Mason-Dixon line. If it's not waffles, biscuits, and collard greens you're craving, head east to check out Spanish Harlem's endless rows of Mexican and Puerto Rican eateries. Or go foreign in Harlem proper: new African and Caribbean restaurants testify to the neighborhood's proud diversity.
- AMY RUTH'S, 113 West 116th St. (www.amyruthsharlem.com), In a neighborhood full of southern cuisine, Amy Ruth's still manages to stand out as a true exemplar of Harlem's proud soul food tradition. It's even named after the owner's grandmother, whose cooking in the turn-of-the-century south continues to inspire today's plentiful, affordable menu. Entrees are named after black celebrities and prominent figures, so you can finally enjoy some Ludacris (fried chicken wings) without the guilt afterwards. A new addition: The President Barack Obama (fried, smothered, baked, or fried BBQ chicken). Breakfast $6-9. Entrees $8-16. Open M 11:30am-11pm, Tu-Th 8:30am-11pm, F 8:30am-5:30pm, Sa 8:30am-7:30pm, Su 7:30am-11pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access.
- LES AMBASSADES, 2200 Frederick Douglass Blvd. (www.patissereidesambassades.com), Les Ambassades is one of the highlights of Harlem's so-called “Little Senegal,” centered on the intersection of 116th St. and Frederick Douglass Blvd. The Senegalese cuisine here is impossible to resist, from the merguez, lamb sausage on a baguette, to the lamb shank to the croque monsieur, a French staple. Come to the weekend brunches for delicious omelettes filled with things like mussels and red peppers. And, since this is a patisserie, there's a healthy selection of specialty breads and sandwiches. Salads and sandwiches $7-10. Dinner $11.50-13.50. Open M-Th 7am-2am, F 7am-3am, Sa-Su 8am-3am. Brunch Sa-Su 11am-5pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access.
- AFRICAN KINE, 256 W. 116th St. (www.africakine.com), Another Senegalese restaurant, this one boasting two stories and a hugely varied menu. Everything's an adventure: for lunch, try souhoukhou, fish and vegetables, or foufou, lamb and fish; for dinner, order dibi, grilled lamb, cow foot soup, or any other of the dozens of items on hand. The cheap desserts are an added bonus—sample the couscous with sour cream and vanilla extract. Many entrees are only served on certain days, so ask your waiter. Lunch entrees $10. Dinner entrees $11-15. Desserts $3-4. Open daily 12:30pm-2am. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has air conditioning.
- EL PASO, 1643 Lexington Ave. (www.elpasony.com), Lexington and 3rd Ave. are filled to the brim with Mexican restaurants boasting similar menus and looks. This central branch of El Paso goes the extra mile with a striking facade and extensive Mexican-themed decor. The result may be a little cheesy, but the food is genuine. The entree menu is extensive, going beyond staples to include camarones poblanos, jumbo shrimp with corn, chuletas asadas, broiled pork chop, and the mole poblano, a mix of chocolate, chilies, plantains, tomatoes, nuts, raisins, and cinnamon. Ooh. Other branches at 237 East 116th St. and 64 East 97th St. Tacos $2.25-2.50. Tortas $5.50-7. Entrees $9-17. Open daily 11am-11pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access.
- DINOSAUR BBQ, 646 West 131st St. (www.dinosaurbarbque.com), This gargantuan wooden house, self-described as “a genuine rib joint,” houses some gargantuan meat dishes (and, very often, gargantuan crowds). Chief among the carnivorous offerings are pork ribs decked out with the restaurant's own BBQ sauce. You can also try the “Big Ass Pork Plate” ($13.75), a testament to the testosterone-fueled atmosphere here. A package deal($47) will get you food for four to five, including chicken, ribs, three sides, cornbread, and, of course, one bottle of Dinosaur BBQ Sauce. Live blues, jazz, rock, and funk Th-Sa nights. Lunch specials from $6. 3 ribs $10. Other entrees $15-22. Open M-Th 11:30am-11pm, F-Sa 11:30am-midnight, Su noon-10pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Has outdoor seating.
- MANNA'S SOUL FOOD AND SALAD BAR, 2331 8th Ave./Frederick Douglass Blvd. No waiting here! The various branches of Manna's, a hugely popular Harlem chain, are simple cafeteria-style affairs where you can go at your own pace. The offerings are standard soul food fare—fried chicken (fried everything), collard greens, and other down homey staples. If the image of closing veins gets to you, the salad bar is similarly extensive. Seating upstairs. Other branches at 70 West 125th St., 54 East 125th St., and 786 Malcolm X Blvd. Cold salad bar $5.49 per lb., hot food $5.49 per lb., meat only $6.49 per lb. Open M-Sa 10am-9pm, Su 10am-8pm. Does not take credit cards. Wheelchair access.
- ITZOCAN BISTRO, 1575 Lexington Ave. (www.itzocanbistro.com), Spanish Harlem is filled to the brim with crowds of Mexican restaurants, but chef Anselmo Bello at Itzocan Bistro has gone the extra mile, using French techniques to prepare his homeland's cuisine. The result is a constant surprise; wild mushroom huitlacoche crepes and adobo-marinated duck breast keep you guessing. It's on the expensive side, but well worth the uptown splurge. Does not take credit cards. Wheelchair access.

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