New York City Williamsburg And Greenpoint

Williamsburg has its share of self-aware genre restaurants and vegan cafes, but interspersed among the expected is a remarkably diverse array of Middle Eastern, Mexican, Polish, and Greek food. With prices still at Brooklyn lows, it's worth the quick Subway ride from Manhattan just for a speedy lunch or dinner trip followed by a hasty exit if you're allergic to quirkiness.

DINER, 85 Broadway (www.dinernyc.com), The broken-down wooden exterior of this converted 1920s diner still proudly shows its age, but the young regulars and constantly changing menu help keep the cobwebs away. You can't predict the specials on any given day, so just expect variety: lunch items may include boudin sausage and fried chicken sandwich, dinner may feature beef tongue rillette and coq au vin, dessert could possibly be lemon sabayan tart. Or maybe not. There's only one way to find out. Check out the Diner Journal ( w www.dinerjournal.com), available next door, for a generous selection of sample recipes. Many menu items change daily; check website for current specials. Entrees $8-14. Open Th 11am-midnight, F-Sa 11am-1am, Su 11am-midnight. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access. Has outdoor seating.
OASIS, 161 N. 7th St. Chances are this ever-crowded, no-frills Middle Eastern eatery will be the first thing you see when leaving the Bedford Ave. station. Follow the line to the cheap falafel, shawarma, and shish kebab sandwiches and plates on offer. Or go for the cheap homemade pies. Omnivores can enjoy a large veggie menu featuring the likes of stuffed grape leaves and tabbouleh. Sandwiches $3-5. Plates $6-15. Veggie dishes $3-10. Pies $2.50-4. Open daily 11am-2am. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access.
LA SUPERIOR, 295 Berry St. (www.lasuperiornyc.com), The neighborhood's best Mexican restaurant is tucked away in a mostly residential corner; seek it out for food that hasn't made any north-of-the-border concessions. On offer are huaraches (masa base with toppings), alambre de res (grilled skirt steak), panuchos de cochinita (pork in banana leaves), torta ahogada (a sandwich “drowned” in chili sauce), and more. For snacks, you'll find cheap tacos, traditional Mexican soups, and Mexican sodas. It seems that the name is actually merited. Tacos $2.50. Brunch $5-12. Entrees $5-14. Open M-Th 12:30pm-midnight, F-Sa noon-2am, Su 12:30pm-midnight. Does not take credit cards. Wheelchair access.
PIES N' THIGHS, 166 S 4th St. (www.piesandthighs.com), Some simple Southern comfort in north Brooklyn. Pies n' Thighs lives up to its magnificent name with a range of decadent fried dishes (fried chicken or catfish “boxes”) and regional favorites like pulled pork. For breakfast, you can try their acclaimed doughnuts or get an early start on dessert with an ample selection of homemade pies. Health inspectors are wary—but it was recently featured on the Today Show, and where fried food and Matt Lauer meet, resistance is futile. Pies $4.50-6. Breakfast $2.50-7. Entrees $6-12. Open M-F 8am-midnight, Sa-Su 10am-midnight; brunch Sa-Su 10am-4pm. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access.
FABIANE'S CAFE AND PASTRY, 142 N. 5th St. (www.fabianescafeandpastry.com), Fabiane's Brazilian namesake and owner received most of her training in French cuisine, and the resulting fusion—mixed with an organic sensibility—shows in a varied menu encompassing smoked duck sandwiches, chicken quesadillas, and organic acai made with Brazilian berries. Come in good weather, when the cafe is exposed to and overflowing with the shaggy crowds of Bedford Ave. Breakfast $3.50-8. Salads and sandwiches $7-10.25. Entrees $5-10. Desserts $5. Open M-Sa 7:30am-11pm, Su 7:30am-10pm. Does not take credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
GOODS, Corner of Metropolitan Ave. and Lorimer St. (www.goodsfood.com), This new takeout stand housed in a converted silver RV camper is already attracting attention and crowds—all deserved, since the breakfast biscuits are cheap, the burgers heaped with toppings, and the Sunday brunches centered on fried chicken. The menu is small and fledgling, so expect developments over the coming months. Seating is available in the new garden in the back. Breakfast $2-3. Lunch/dinner $4.75-8.25. Open M-Th 7am-10:30pm, F 7am-midnight, Sa 9am-midnight, Su 9am-10pm. Does not take credit cards. Wheelchair access.
PAPA LIMA SANDWICH, 362 Bedford Ave. (www.papalimasandwich.com), It's hard to resist sandwiches with names like Wilbur (grilled ham, cheddar, and pear on wheat), Evil Reuben (turkey, coleslaw, dressing, and provolone on rye), and Charlie Brown (pulled roast chicken, bacon, tomato, arugula, and basil mayo on wheat). All sides and toppings are bought locally and prepared fresh. Weirdly geometrical picnic tables, green walls, and free Wi-Fi make you feel at home. Breakfast $5-8. Sandwiches $6-12. Open M-F 9am-7pm, Sa-Su 10am-8pm. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access. Has internet.