Oahu Orientation

Honolulu’s main highway, H-1, runs east-west along the length of the city from Kaimuki to the southwest corner of Oahu, past the airport. Getting onto H-1 can be frustrating, as some streets only provide eastbound or westbound access. Freeway access is available via Ala Moana Boulevard, which stretches from Waikiki to the airport and turns into Nimitz Hwy. west of Nuuanu River, and King Street, which leaves H-1 north of Waikiki and splits into two one-way streets between University Ave. and the Aala Park edge of Chinatown. The one-way streets formed from the split of King St., Beretania Street (heading west) and King Street (heading east), are the backbone of downtown and Chinatown and bear the brunt of intra-Honolulu traffic. Beretania and King St. also run near many of greater Honolulu’s sights and activities. TheBus has several routes that ply their way down King St. and then head up Beretania St. for the return trip. Kapiolani Boulevard is a major two-way thoroughfare, slicing a northwest-southeast passage from Wailae Ave. to H-1 and intersecting Waikiki’s Kalakaua Avenue on the way over to its western endpoint at King St. and the Civic Center. Streets that intersect these east-west routes include Kapahulu Ave. (on the eastern edge of Waikiki), University Ave. (from Waikiki to Manoa), Piikoi (northbound one-way from Ala Moana Beach), Pensacola (southbound one-way from around Makiki), and Ward Ave. (along the western edge of the Ward Centers in Ala Moana).

The Lei Of The Land

Honolulu is an abused place-name: it is often used to refer to whatever (or wherever) is presently under discussion. To many, Honolulu means the urban and suburban sprawl that stretches along the South Shore of Oahu, from Koko Head in the east to Kalihi and the airport in the west. Others consider Honolulu the small downtown area surrounded by the districts of Chinatown to the west, Ala Moana to the south, Kaimuki and the revitalized Waialae area to the east, and the University of Hawaii and Manoa valley neighborhoods to the north. Diamond Head Crater in the east provides some of the best views on Oahu while the Koolau Mountain Range forms a backdrop for the varying streetscapes.

Honolulu Neighborhoods

Honolulu is a collection of small neighborhoods and Ala Moana, downtown, Chinatown, Manoa and the University Area, and Waikiki are the major districts that will be the focus in this guide. Waikiki is considered separately .

Ala Moana. Spanning Honolulu’s waterfront along Ala Moana Blvd. from downtown to Waikiki, Ala Moana is a shopper’s paradise. The area is dotted with a number of malls and complexes, including Aloha Tower Marketplace, Restaurant Row, the Victoria Ward Centers, and Ala Moana Shopping Center, which is also a major bus terminal. Many routes stop in front of the mall at Kona St. or behind it on Ala Moana Blvd. While Ala Moana Beach Park offers some opportunity for outdoor recreation, Ala Moana is one of the most commercialized parts of the island and mostly features popular American chain stores and restaurants.

Downtown. Downtown Honolulu is Hawaii’s financial and legislative district. The centrally located Bishop Sq. is Oahu’s business powerhouse, and the Senate and House of Representatives sit nearby in the State Capitol. During weekday hours, the streets are crowded with businesspeople, though at any other time of the week the area feels more like a ghost town. Downtown draws a small crowd with the historic sights of the Civic Center and the public art of the financial district for the public art. The downtown area, between Ala Moana and Chinatown, is bordered by the Fort St. Mall in the west, South St. in the east, Honolulu Harbor in the south, and Vineyard Blvd. in the north. To avoid the headache of one-way streets and parking, take TheBus #1, 2, 13, or B CityExpress to Hotel St. and then explore on foot.

Chinatown. Chinatown assaults every sense with pungent fish markets, sizzling dishes, incense-shrouded shrines, and vocal street vendors. Honolulu is home to one of the nation’s oldest Chinatowns, which dates back to 1860 and was originally the red light district for sailors. Now it’s home to a diverse Asian population, including Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Thai, Vietnamese, and Filipino communities and is consequently a destination for tourists in search of a cultural experience, shopping bargains, and inexpensive food. Chinatown is a small grid of a few square blocks, bordered by downtown to the east and Aala Triangle Park to the west. You’ll find Chinatown’s shops lining River St., Maunakea St., Smith St., N. Hotel St., and Nuuanu Ave. between Nimitz Hwy. to the south and Kukui St. to the north. Start your exploration at the intersection of Hotel and River St.; from Waikiki take TheBus #2, 13, or B CityExpress.

Manoa And The University Area. The University of Hawaii (UH) hangs its mortarboard in the pleasant Manoa Valley district, north of the central Honolulu neighborhood of Moiliili. Manoa itself is a peaceful valley overflowing with greenery, lava rock walls, and mango trees. The streets become more tranquil and more hilly as you tread farther up into the valley, away from the city center and toward the Honolulu Watershed Forest Reserve. Two of Honolulu’s main roads, University Ave. and Punahou St., become Oahu Ave. and Manoa Rd., respectively, once they hit Manoa. Past Punahou School, Manoa Rd. splits into E. Manoa Rd. and Manoa Rd. E. Manoa Rd. veers to the Manoa Marketplace; Manoa Rd. continues on to Lyon Arboretum and the Manoa Falls trailhead. Strip malls radiate out from the intersection of King St. and University Ave., in the more densely populated Moiliili. West of Manoa, between Punahou School and Punchbowl Crater north of H-1, is the high-rise-clogged neighborhood of Makiki. Excellent hiking and scenic drives are found at the extreme ends of Makiki Heights Dr., Round Top Dr., and Tantalus Dr.

TheBus #4 picks up on Kuhio Ave. in Waikiki and continues north on University Ave. The #5, 6, and 18 all pick up at Ala Moana Shopping Center and head to Manoa. On school days during 6-7:30am, the #80A is an express from Hawaii Kai to lower Manoa and downtown, going as far into Manoa as Dole St. and UH. In the afternoon, #80A runs from Punahou School back to Hawaii Kai.

Kaimuki.  Bordered on the west by Kapaluhu and on the north by Waialae, Kaimuki is an underappreciated neighborhood with inexpensive restaurants, bohemian coffee shops, and quiet residential neighborhoods. Far enough from Waikiki so as not to be touristy, Kaimuki deserves an afternoon of exploring, eating lunch, and browsing in the mom-and-pop stores that dot Waialae Ave. From Downtown take the #1, 3, or 9 bus.