Big Island Sights And Activities

Lapakahi State Historical Park. When Polynesian sailors arrived at the sheltered coves of Lapakahi nearly 600 years ago, they agreed upon its security and built a village. Soon thereafter, many of the villagers hiked into the wetter Kohala Mountains, where extensive farming was more feasible. For nearly 500 years, a trade arrangement between the upland farmers and ahupuaa (their coastal counterparts) united these Kohala natives. Their exchanges included fresh fish from the coast and coconut, kamani nuts, taro root, and ulu (breadfruit) crops. In 1918, when struggling sugar plantation owners diverted the seven streams that fed Lapakahi, lush fields quickly dried into a red sand desert. The fate of Lapakahi became a common tragedy for Native Hawaiians. Today, Lapakahi is the only native village that has been at least partially restored.

The Visitors Center at Lapakahi has maps of a 1 mi. trail, indicating canoe landings, salt pans, fish shrines, burial grounds, and the fragments of the taro-for-fish trade road that once connected the mountains and the coast.

In its time, Lapakahi was considered a sacred healing ground because of the high number of medicinal roots and plants that grew on its coast. Many traditional healers still frequent the site for ceremonies and ask that visitors respect the sacredness of their historic home. Signs request that visitors not bring their picnics to the beach. The snorkeling is exceptional but is permitted only in the cove accessible by a path directly makai (toward the ocean) from the Visitors Center. Ask before leaving to be sure you are swimming in the right spot. The water is clear enough to see a rainbow of fish from the rocks without any snorkel equipment. (Off Hwy. 270; turn toward the ocean near mi. marker 14. ☎808-889-5566. Bring your own water and sunscreen. Open daily 8am-4pm, gate closes 3:30pm. Free.)

Mookini Luakini Heiau And Kamehameha’S Birthplace. Hawaiian chants and oral histories stress that the most important factor in building a sacred heiau (temple) is not the building’s design, but the choice of the site. On a windy green cliff overlooking the Pacific and Haleakala Mountain on Maui, the Mookini Heiau is undoubtedly a site of great mana, or spiritual power. Although most heiau tend to be dedicated to Lono, the god of harvest, the heiau at Mookini is dedicated to Ku, the god of war. Known as luakini heiau, temples dedicated to Ku were the only spiritual sites to offer human sacrifices. Built in 480 BC, the Mookini Heiau has 30 ft. walls which, according to legend, were transported by a 9 mi. long human chain that extracted volcanic stones from the Pololu Valley. Traditionally restricted to alii (royalty) and kahuna (priests), Mookini Luakini Heiau was designated the first National Historic Landmark in Hawaii and opened to the public in 1963.

A few hundred yards down the coast from the heiau there is a large enclosure reputed to be the site of Kamehameha’s birth. The exact date is disputed, but according to oral tradition, Kamehameha was born on a stormy night following an unusual celestial light that was seen rising in the east. Towering at a peak of 5480 ft., the North Kohala mountains would provide Kamehameha with a commanding view of Maui, allowing him strategic vision in his advance to unify the islands. (Both of these sacred sites are almost unmarked. To reach the heiau, turn toward the ocean at the sign for Upolu Airport at mi. marker 20 on Rte. 270. Follow the road for 2 mi. At the airport, turn left on the dirt road that runs parallel to the coast. This road is often swamped with mud pools, making it impassable for cars with 2WD. After about 1 mi. you will see a signpost indicating the direction of each historic site; the heiau is on the hill to the left. Kamehameha’s birthplace is another mi. down the right-hand fork, just up from the coast. For more information call ☎808-591-1170 or 808-591-1142.)

Kamehameha Statue. On the mauka side of the highway through Kapaau, this “true-to-scale” 8 ft. tall statue of King Kamehameha asserts the legendary status of Hawaii’s uniting king. It’s a heavily touristed sight and not really worth the stop.

  Pololu Valley Lookout. This is a fantastic place for a stop; the view is spectacular and would probably halt traffic even if the road continued forward. The parking lot at the end of the highway looks out over rocky cliffs and waves crashing against a black sand beach. Behind this, the start of the seven valleys (from Pololu to Waipio) stretches out in sharp green arcs. Thousands of years of Pacific erosion carved these lush valleys from the Kohala Mountains: a miracle of time, water, and circumstance found nowhere else on the island. Waipio is the only other valley accessible by car from the east. If the view ensnares you, several trails into the valley start from the parking lot. For more information, see Hiking. (7 mi. past Kapaau on Rte. 270, at the end of the road.)

Flumin’ Da Ditch. A unique option for seeing the North Kohala countryside, Flumin’ Da Ditch coordinates wet and bizarre group kayak adventures that explore the area’s undeveloped rainforests and remnants of the long-gone era of sugar plantations. Kids who grew up on these plantations were known to grab anything that floated and go flumin’ in the ditches, tunnels, and flumes of Kohala’s irrigation system. Over the course of the trip, guides explain the design, construction, and history of the Kohala Ditch Project and the 600 Japanese laborers who made it possible. The ride is very cool: little paddling is involved, and the guides are as entertaining as the scenery. Flumin’ also runs 3hr. HMV Tours, a drier venture into the same rainforests and past the same waterfalls. Unfortunately, an earthquake in October 2006 damaged the ditch, causing Flumin’ Da Ditch to cancel their tours for a few years. Tour operators have been working on repairing the ditch and plan to reopen in October 2008. Check their website for updates. (55-519 Hawi Rd. above the intersection of Hwy. 250 and 270 in Hawi. ☎808-889-6922; www.flumindaditch.com. Both trips daily 8:15am and 12:15pm. $89, ages 5-18 $68. AmEx/D/MC/V.)

Atv Outfitters. This is a rumbling, bumpy, muddy, and spectacular way to see the North Kohala mountains and waterfalls. These guides, all of whom are 4th-, 5th-, and 6th-generation Kohala natives, lead groups along the King Kamehameha and Kohala sugar plantation trails. They offer ATV trips on the Historical Ocean Cliff Trail (1.5hr., $109, ages 7-15 $75), 15 mi. Waterfall Adventure (2hr., $169, ages 7-15 $125), and 22 mi. Deluxe Adventure (3hr., $249, ages 7-15 $125). Reservations required. (Just off Rte. 270 in Kapaau; turn toward the ocean at the sign. ☎888-288-7288; www.atvoutfittershawaii.com. Open M-Sa 7am-4pm. Ages 16+ to drive, 7+ to ride with a guide. AmEx/D/MC/V.)