Lanai Sights

  Munro Trail. If you only have time for one off-road trek while on Lanai, this is the way to go. Named for the New Zealand naturalist who planted the island’s magnificent pines, the Munro trail offers ethereal views of Maui, Molokai, Kahoolawe, the Big Island, and Oahu throughout its breadth, in addition to high-rise glimpses at the many former pineapple fields far below.

Be certain to stay on the main road. Side roads are often very muddy because they only exist for water drainage purposes. Two miles from the start of the trail, there’s a turn-off to the left that leads visitors to a lookout over the gigantic Maunalei Gulch, the island’s original source of drinking water. The main road bears right, and it takes you as close as you can get to Lanaihale, Lanai’s highest point (3368 ft.). After another mile or two, the road affords a great view of Hookio Gulch, the site of the Lanaian warriors’ defeat by King Kamehameha.

At the end of the trail, an exit sign points to the left. Continue down the road and then veer right at the first major fork (if you reach a large orange pipe, then you’ve gone too far). Follow the steep road until it ends, then turn left and proceed until reaching Manele Rd. Turn right to return to Lanai City. (To reach the trail from town, take Lanai Ave. toward the Lodge at Koele. Past the Lodge, take Keomoku Rd. toward Shipwreck Beach, and then take a right onto Cemetery Rd. With the cemetery on your right, veer left after the pavement ends and look for a sign that marks the trailhead. The trail is about 13 mi. long with a 1600 ft. elevation change and can take anywhere from 2-4hr. to complete with 4WD, depending on road conditions. Also expect to spend about 30min. making your way from the end of the trail back to the highway. The trail is also good for a 4-8hr. hike or mountain biking.)

The North Side

  Garden Of The Gods (Keahiakawelo). Keahikawelo, or Garden of the Gods, is a vast, desert-like expanse of red earth marked by thousands of rock towers. The rolling topography of the wind-swept terrain is both surreal and awe-inspiring. The towers are concentrated at the beginning of the garden, but to fully appreciate the splendor of the place, drive all the way through. Late afternoon is the best time to visit, when the towers cast long shadows and the warm tones of the setting sun complement the colors of the landscape.

Some claim that Hawaiians believed that the towers were created by the gods and that locals followed suit with their own man-made versions. However, the larger towers were actually created by natural forces, and it was tourists who built imitative structures. Hawaiian legend has it that Kawelo, a young sorcerer, challenged his master on Molokai to a contest. Each had to build a bonfire, and the person whose bonfire lasted longer would have their island blessed with prosperity. Kawelo, it is said, burned everything in sight, leaving the beautiful, though dry, terrain seen today in the Garden. (Approx. 25min. from town, 1 mi. beyond the Kanepuu Preserve. The drive requires 4WD, but the road is in decent condition if it hasn’t been raining. The drive is less challenging than most.)

Kanepuu Preserve. A road leading over three sets of cattle grates enters the silvery ironwood and pine forest of this 460-acre preserve. After 1 mi., you’ll see a sign for a self-guided trail on the right. The walk takes about 15min., and plaques along the path provide information on the rare vegetation in the preserve. Some 48 native species can be found in the largest native Hawaiian dry forest on the island, including endangered Lanai sandalwood and rare Hawaiian gardenia. (Take Lanai Ave., north toward the Lodge at Koele. Just past the Lodge, turn left onto the dirt road between the tennis courts and the stables. Past the stables, turn right at the intersection onto Polihua Trail. After, you’ll see the fence and sign announcing the preserve.)

Polihua Beach. After the Garden of the Gods, unflappable drivers can continue on to the gorgeous Polihua Beach, a 2 mi. stretch of white sand where sea turtles lay eggs and humpback whales can be spotted December through April. Road conditions are sometimes very unfavorable; but if you make the trip, you’ll likely have this conservation beach to yourself. Park on the dirt area off to the right of the end of the road. Do not approach or disturb any species. (Approx.y 45min. from town. After the Garden of the Gods, continue on Polihua Trail until it ends. The drive requires 4WD. You should not drive on the beach itself—doing so is illegal and you will likely get stuck.)

The East Side

Shipwreck Beach (Kaiolohia). Enjoy the simple beauty of the drive to Shipwreck Beach—short dune grass flows along Keomuku Rd., winding to the blue Pacific. The narrow road offers arresting views of both Molokai and Maui as well as the forsaken, rusting hulls of two large ships that give the 4 mi. stretch of white sand beach its name. This part of the island gets less than 12 in. of rain per year, and the vegetation is sparse enough that the burnt red dirt shows through, creating a rough-hewn patchwork of contrasting colors.

The first sight along the dirt road is Federation Camp, about 1 mi. from Keomuku Rd. The deserted fishing shacks were built as vacation homes in the early 20th century by the island’s Filipino pineapple plantation workers. A few minutes beyond the houses is a turn-around area with picnic tables. Park here and continue walking along the road over bumpy rocks for about 50 yd. On the left you will see a small straw house and patio tucked into a cove of bushes and a rock that says “Shipwreck Beach.” Continue towards your right where you will find the cement foundation that once supported a lighthouse. Walk down the small ramp of the lighthouse foundation and continue away from the sea (toward a boulder that warns “Do Not Deface”). Climb down the rocks to the right of this boulder to reach the well-preserved Kukui Point petroglyphs. Look carefully on the undersides of the large rocks to see these ancient drawings of warriors and animals, believed to date back to AD 500-900.

Once on the beach, walk along the coast toward the shipwreck, which becomes visible almost immediately, though you’ll have to walk over rocks for about 15min. to reach it. As you continue, keep your eyes peeled for dozens of piles of sand next to holes in the ground; the holes are crab homes. Sea turtles have also been known to lay eggs on this beach at night. After about 15min. of walking, you’ll reach the closest point to Liberty Ship, a WWII-era frigate that became stuck on the reef due to navigational error. There are nearly a half-dozen other shipwrecks along the beach. (Take Keomoku Rd. until it ends. Turn left onto a dirt road at the end of the highway. Be careful not to drive into any of the large ruts in the road. The road is usually passable, but do not attempt it with 2WD or in the rain. Under no circumstances should you drive on the beach itself—doing so is illegal and you may get stuck.)

Keomuku Beach And Environs. From the end of Keomuku Rd., the beach road heads southeast to Halepalaoa Landing. The ocean next to the road is shallow, rocky, and rife with marine life. A mile past the fork is Kalaehi (White Rock), known historically as the spot where Kaululaau vanquished the akua (ghosts) from Lanai. After about 5 mi. you will reach Keomuku Village, a former sugar plantation that operated from 1899 to 1901. The only noteworthy sight is Kalanakila O Ka Malamalama, an abandoned wooden church built after the collapse of the industry. About a mile out from the village, a walking trail on the right leads inland to Kahea Heiau, a temple once the site of human sacrifices, which was partially dismantled to build a railroad. The Buddhist shrine near the wharf was constructed to commemorate workers killed by a 1900 plague.

Lopa Beach, a good surfing beach and home to four ancient Hawaiian fishponds, lies another 5 mi. down the road. Naha, over 12 mi. from the end of the highway, is also the site of an ancient fishpond and probably not worth the trek, though Maui residents sometimes charter boats that drop them at the beach there for the day. (To get to Keomuku Beach from the end of the highway, go straight on the dirt road at first and then veer right. The village is about 5 mi. down. The road is very bumpy and impossible to navigate in poor weather. Do not drive along the beach—you might get stuck. Check with your rental agency to see if the road has been re-graded before heading out.)

The South Side

  Manele Bay And Hulopoe Beach Park. Dominated by the luxurious Manele Bay Hotel, Manele Bay is home to Lanai’s most popular beach, only official campground, and a small harbor where you can catch the ferry to Maui (see Interisland Transportation). From town, take Manele Rd. south. As the road straightens, you’ll be driving through the caldera of an extinct volcano. This tree-lined Palawai Basin was once the center of the Dole Plantation.

At the very end of the highway, after a series of sloping switchbacks down to the shore, the road forks. To the left is Manele Harbor, the ferry landing and the island’s principal port until the 1926 construction of the commercial harbor at Kaumalapau. To the right is Hulopoe Beach Park, the island’s best beach for swimming and snorkeling. Although the surf is nothing remarkable in the summer, the beach gets much busier in the winter (but the sandy white expanse is large enough that it won’t seem crowded). Hulopoe also has the island’s only campsite, with picnic tables, grills, showers, and restrooms .

From the beach, you can walk uphill and to the left along the bay. At low tide, take the green steps on the right down to the vibrant tide pools. Continue along to reach Puu Pehe Rock, more popularly known as Sweetheart Rock. According to Hawaiian legend, a local fisherman decided to build his home in a cave to prevent other men from laying eyes on his beautiful wife, Pehe. One day, a sudden storm swept his home into the sea, taking his wife with it. Her family recovered the body and brought it back to town. Late that night, the fisherman stole her body and, with the help of the gods, scaled the 150 ft. rock tower and buried her on top. Overcome with grief, he jumped off the rock to his death. The tomb structure, Kupapau Puu Pehe (tomb of Puu Pehe), is visible on top of the tower. This southeastern lookout is a romantic spot to watch the morning sunrise. The waters that lay below the area are known as Sharks’ Cove, although none of its namesake creatures actually inhabit the wonderfully iridescent waves.

While at Hulopoe Beach, you can stroll around the grounds of the Manele Bay Hotel. If you face the water and stand toward the back of the beach, you’ll see a path off to the right that takes you up to the resort. At night this passageway is illuminated with tiki torches. You’ll pass the luau grounds on your right and arrive at Manele Bay’s pool area. If you prefer not to visit the resort, follow the path that starts on the resort end of the beach. The path starts out on the sand, guided by a line of rocks and supplemented by plaques with historical information. If you cross the low point of the path and climb up and slightly toward the right, you’ll see a sign for the “Lanai Fisherman’s Trail,” which crosses in front of the resort. The views from the trail are exceptional.

Kaumalapau Harbor. Though there isn’t much here, you’ll probably make the quick trip to Kaumalapau Harbor simply because it’s connected to town by a paved road. The drive itself is worth the trip, with remarkable views of the Pacific Ocean and the western slopes of the island. At one time, over a million pineapples a day were sent to canning plants on Oahu via the harbor, but today it’s the drab commercial facility of an oil company. It’s also the landing site for the weekly barge that supplies Lanai with goods such as cars, furniture, industrial equipment, and wholesale products retailed at grocery and hardware stores. The Thursday delivery is an all-day affair, with public access limited and restaurants, shop owners, and hotels all stopping by for provisions. When the shipment is late, the whole island reels in its wake. The area is rarely populated after 5pm, and the glacial sea wall next to the road is a superb place to watch the sunset. (From town, take Kaumalapau Hwy. After 6 mi., you will reach the harbor area. Slow down to 5mph at the entrance—there may be men at work or locals fishing.)

Kaunolu. Once the summer retreat of Kamehameha the Great, Kaunolu remains one of Lanai’s most remarkable archaeological sites. The heiau (temple) here, called Halulu, was used until 1819. One of its altars bears a stone image of the fish god Kunihi, representing Kuula, the patron of fishermen. To the left of Halulu is Kahekili’s Leap. Also known as Warriors’ Leap, Kamehama’s warriors would prove their worth by leaping from this 63 ft. natural platform into the waters below. While Kaunolu remains a must-see, the unpaved road to the valley is rather treacherous; the few tourists who do decide to make the trip generally do so via an ATV tour. (From town, take Kaumalapau Hwy. After 3 mi., just past the airport, turn left. Follow this road for 5 mi. until it ends.)