Poland’s second largest city, Łódź (WOODGE; pop. 768,000) is home to some of the country’s most interesting and least known sights and tastes. Łódź once housed the largest Jewish ghetto in Europe; today, residents are putting this plucky working-class city back on the map by hosting extraordinary art festivals and Jewish heritage exhibits.
Transportation And Practical Information. Trains run from Łódź Kaliska, al. Unii Lubelskiej 1 (☎41 02), to: Kraków (5hr., 6 per day, 49zł); Gdansk (7hr., 5 per day, 53zł); Warsaw (2hr.,7 per day, 33zł); Wrocław (4hr., 3 per day, 42zł). Polski Express buses (☎042 02 28 54 02 85; www.polskiexpress.org) depart from Łódź Fabryczna, pl. B. Salacinskiego 1, to Gdansk (4hr., 1 per day, 57zł) and Warsaw (2hr., 7 per day, 36zł). The IT tourist office, ul. Piotrkowska 87, books rooms, including university dorms in summer. (☎042 638 5955; www.cityoflodz.pl. Open May-Aug. M-F 8am-7pm, Sa-Su 10am-2pm, Sept.-Apr. M-F 8am-6pm, Su 10am-2pm.) Postal Code: 90-001.
Accommodations And Food. The convenient PTSM Youth Hostel (HI) , ul. Legionów 27, has quiet rooms with spacious bath and TV. Take tram #4 toward Helenówek from Fabryczna station to pl. Wolnosci; walk on Legionów past Zachodnia. (☎630 6680; www.yhlodz.pl. Curfew 11pm. Reception 24hr. Singles 65zł; doubles 80zł; triples 120zł. MC/V.) Anatewka , ul. 6 Sierpnia 2/4, serves phenomenal Jewish cuisine with flair. (☎042 630 3635. Entrees 17-45zł. Open daily 11am-midnight.) For cheaper eats, head to the Zielony rynek (the green market), a 5min. walk from Piotrkowska on Plac Barlickiego. This open-air market is open daily and features rows of fresh produce, bread, and various meats. Łódź’s main thoroughfare, ulica Piotrkowska, is a bustling pedestrian shopping drag by day and a lively pub strip by night. Designed by an arts collective, the legendary bar and club Łódź Kaliska, ul. Piotrkowska 102, draws famous Polish actors and artists with its eccentric atmosphere and anything-goes decor. (☎042 630 6955; www.klub.lodzkaliska.pl. Beer 8zł. Open daily noon-late.)
Sights. The eerily beautiful Jewish Cemetery (Cmentarz Żydowski), on ul. Zmienna, has over 200,000 graves. Near the entrance is a memorial to the Jews killed in the ghetto; signs lead to the Ghetto Fields (Pole Ghettowe), which are lined with faintly marked graves. Take tram #1 from ul. Kilinskiego or #6 from ul. Kościuszki or Zachodnia north to the end of the line (20min.); continue up the street, turn left on ul. Zmienna, and enter through the small gate on the right. (☎042 656 7019. Open May-Sept. M-Th and Su 9am-5pm, F 9am-3pm; Oct.-Apr. M-F and Su 8am-3pm. Closed Jewish holidays. 4zł, free for those visiting relatives’ graves.) The Jewish Community Center (Gmina Wyznaniowa Żydowska), ul. Pomorska 18, in the town center, has information on those buried in the cemetery. (☎042 633 5156. Open M-F 10am-2pm. English spoken.)
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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