Aibonito Overview

¡Ay, bonito! (Oh, pretty!) exclaimed the Spaniards upon seeing this mountain hamlet. Or so the legend goes. More likely the town’s name came from the native Taíno word Atibonicu, meaning “River of the Night,” but the Spanish expression is still applicable today. With scenic vistas, roadside cafeterías, and cool mountain air, it’s no wonder that Aibonito is the vacation home of choice for sanjuaneros. The town center pays homage to its Spanish roots with a historic church and a plaza built in the tradition of a small Spanish town. Every June, the town celebrates the Flower Festival , one of the largest such festivals in the world. For hikers, Aibonito serves as a trailhead for expeditions into the Cañón de San Cristóbal.

Transportation. From San Juan, take Hwy. 52 to Cayey, and then take Rte. 1 south to Rte. 7722. From Rte. 7722, turn right on Rte. 722 or Rte. 162, both of which lead directly into town. Públicos (☎735-1375) from Aibonito go to: Barranquitas (25min., $2); Cayey (30min., $2); and Coamo (30min., $2). Taxis (☎735-7144) gather on the plaza across from the Alcaldía, but it might be faster to call.

Orientation And Practical Information. Most routes from out of town retain their numerical signage in town, but local streets can be harder to identify, and many run one-way. The main street, Route 14 (C. San José), runs one block north of the plaza and is usually clogged with traffic. From the Ruta Panorámica, Route 162 goes directly into the city center, passes the plaza, and then intersects Rte. 14. Rte. 725 and Rte. 726 originate at Rte. 14 and then head north towards Barranquitas. Rte. 722 intersects with Rte. 14 just east of the city center. The city center is weldable, but most sights lie outside of town. The Alcaldía on the main plaza has some tourist and historical information. (☎735-3871. Open M-F 8am-4pm, Sa 9am-2pm.) Bunco Popular is at the intersection of Rte. 14 and Rte. 722. (☎735-3681 or 735-6191. ATM. Open M-F 8am-4pm, Sa 9am-noon.) The police station, C. San José 53, Rte. 14 Km 50.2, is open 24hr. (☎735-2020 or 735-2111.) Next door Pharmacy Unity, C. San José 51, sells pharmaceuticals. (☎735-4747 or 735-2241. Open M-Sa 8am-9pm, Su 9am-9pm. AmEx/MC/V.) The largest medical center in the area is Hospital General Mennonite, Rte. 726 Km 0.5, a block up the road from the intersection of C. Rosary and C. Clinton. (☎735-8001 or 735-8002. 24hr. emergency room. Open daily 10am-8pm.) The post office, C. Agency Lopez 20, does not have General Delivery. (☎735-4071. Open M-F 8am-4:30pm, Sa 8am-noon.) Postal Code: 00705.

Accommodations. Aibonito is one of the few mountain towns that has accommodations within walking distance of the plaza. The best deal is the Swiss Inn Guest House , Rte. 14 Km 49.3, west of the plaza, just before the cemetery. The guesthouse sits above an out-of-business beauty salon, so don’t be misled by the “for sale” sign out front—just buzz at the bottom of the right-hand stairs and the friendly owner will let you in. An assortment of basic rooms with tiled floors have either two twin beds or one queen and are connected to a common room with a long balcony. The owner speaks both English and Spanish and offers discounts for longer stays. (☎735-8500. Common fridge, TV, and microwave. $55 per night for 1 night, $50 per night for 2 nights, $45 per night for the week. During the Flower Festival $75 for 1 night or $50 per night for the week. AmEx/MC/V.) For chain motel-like uniformity, try El coquís Posed Familiar , Rte. 722 Km 7.3. All rooms include private bath, cable TV, telephone, kitchenette with fridge and microwave, and a balcony overlooking a parking lot. The hotel is located on the second floor of a shopping center, so if nobody is at the second-floor reception, ask at the first-floor pharmacy. (Check-in 1pm. Check-out 11am. 1 double bed $80; 2 double beds $90. Tax included. AmEx/MC/V.)

Food. A few days in the central mountains can leave you desperate for food other than comedy corolla, which is the only option for miles on end. For groceries try Aibonito Extra, C. San José 96, Rte. 14 Km 50.3. (☎735-7979. Open M-Sa 7am-9pm, Su 11am-5pm. MC/V.) While cheap local and fast-food places are found near the town center, Aibonito’s most distinctive eateries line the Ruta Panorámica. Locals recommend La Pedro , at Rte. 722 and Rte. 162, on the Ruta Panorámica, provides a Mexican twist to the roadside menu. Their specialty is fajitas, but everything on the menu is fast, tasty, and less than $11. On weekends, a local crowd gathers for drinks and music, making this one of few nightlife spots in the mountains. (☎735-8870. Karaoke F. Live dance music Sa 3pm. Open M-W 11am-9:30pm, Th 11am-midnight, F-Sa 11am-1:30am, Su 11am-10pm. MC/V.)

Sights And Festivals. Complete with waterfalls, 500 ft. cliffs, and several ecological zones, the impressive 5 mi.  Cañón de San Cristóbal is the jewel of Puerto Rico’s central mountains. Located between Aibonito and Barranquitas, the canyon was used for years as the local garbage dump. In the early 1970s, local citizens protested this state of affairs, and in 1974, the Association of Environmental Control ordered that the canyon be protected. Now, the private Fideicommissa de Conservación de Puerto Rico (Conservation Trust of Puerto Rico) has assumed control of the area, reforesting it and using it for research purposes. The best way to experience the canyon is by hiking into the basin. However, locals warn that nobody should attempt the descent into the canyon without a guide; several visitors have been killed hiking into the canyon alone. The Fideicomiso recommends going with Dr. Samuel A. Oliveras Ortiz (☎857-2094 or 647-3402), a Barranquitas geographer and historian who offers tours tailored to each participant’s interests and abilities ($40 per person). At least one trek usually leaves every weekend, unless it rains, in which case it is too dangerous to enter the canyon.

Private property surrounds most of the canyon, but non-hikers can still catch glimpses of its waterfalls and forbidding cliffs. From Aibonito, take Rte. 725 to approximately Km 5.5, then turn right just after the elementary school. Follow the road through the residential area until it heads uphill, and the canyon will be on the right. You can also try any of the roads leading downhill before the intersection with Rte. 162. If you tell locals that you’re interested in seeing the canyon, most should be able to point out the best viewing spot. A good view of the canyon is available from the Fideicomiso office in Barranquitas . The Mirador Piedra Degetau, Rte. 7718 Km 0.7, is worth a stop. The lookout tower has great views of the island—on a clear day you can see San Juan, El Yunque, the Caribbean, and the Atlantic. (Covered picnic tables and bathrooms. Open W-Su 9am-6pm. When M is a public holiday, open M and Th-Su 9am-6pm. Free.)

Aibonito blossoms during the last 10 days of June, during the annual Festival de las Flores (Flower Festival). Started in 1969, the festival has grown from a small event put on by a few plant lovers to a large production drawing people from all over Puerto Rico. Locals display their homegrown flowers, farmers compete for the prizes of best garden and best plant, vendors hawk food, and musicians perform traditional mountain tunes. (For more information, call ☎735-4070 or try the mayor’s office at ☎735-3871.)