Alajuela Overview

Alajuela, 3km from the international airport and 17km northwest of San José, is perhaps the cleanest and calmest of Costa Rica’s cities. Small restaurants and B&Bs anchor the city’s family-oriented environment. The town is a good base for excursions that do not require strenuous activity and are thus perfect for travelers of any age: the Butterfly Farm, Zoo-Ave, and Volcán Poás. In addition, the picturesque souvenir center of Sarchí is just 1hr. northwest. For those who just want to stay put and take in the scenery, Alajuela’s parque central, which spreads out in front of a large, colonial, red-domed cathedral, is a good place to sit and relax. As is generally the case, the area closest to the parque central is the safest. Tourists should avoid wandering too far afield at night. In spite of this, Alajuela maintains a sunny character with inviting, friendly people.

From the TUASA station, Av. Central/1, C. 8 (☎2442 6900), 350m west of the southwest corner of the parque central, buses go to San José (45min., every 5min. 4am-10pm, ¢370) and Volcán Poás (1hr.; M-Sa 9:15am, return 2:30pm; ¢1750 round-trip). Buses to Sarchí depart 200m west of the mercado central (1hr.; M-Sa every 25-30min. 5am-10pm, Su every 25min. 6:10am-10pm; ¢565). Taxis to and from the airport should cost no more than ¢1500.

Orientation And Practical Information

Arriving at the TUASA bus station, Av. Central/1, C. 8, turn right onto the avenue at the top of the station, then walk 350m until you reach the parque central, boxed in by Av. Central/1 and C. Central/2. Look for the white cathedral on the far end and a white dome-like shelter over a stage. The streets of Alajuela form the standard Costa Rican grid, but street signs are rare, so it’s best to count the blocks in your head or use landmarks, as locals do.

• Banks: Banco Nacional, Av. Central/1, C. 2. Open M-F 8:30am-3:45pm. Scotiabank, Av. 1/3, C. 2 (☎2441 1131). Open M-F 8:30am-6pm. Both have MC/V 24hr. ATMs. Scotiabank changes Citibank and V traveler’s checks; 1% commission. Bac San José, Av. 3, C. Central/1 (☎2443 4380), changes AmEx traveler’s checks; 1% commission. Open M-F 9am-7pm, Sa 9am-1pm. There is a BCAC/Bancrédito 24hr. ATM on Av. Central/2, C. 2, and 24hr. ATMs inside both Palí and MegaSuper. Western Union (☎2442 6392) is inside Palí. Open M-Sa 8:30am-1pm and 2-7pm, Su 10am-1:30pm and 2-5pm.
• Bookstore: Goodlight Books, Av. 3, C. 3/5 (☎2430 4083; www.goodlightbooks.com). Enjoy espresso (¢450-500) or a dessert (¢500-700) while browsing the selection of new and used English-language books and maps. A computer is also available for Internet use (¢500 per hr.). Open daily 9am-6pm. Libros Chiloé, Av. 5, C. 2/4 (☎2242 7419), across from Hotel Cortez Azul. Buys and sells used books (¢500-3000). Open M-Sa 8:30am-6pm, Su 10am-noon.
• Laundry: La Batea, Av. 5/7, C.4 (☎2430 5830). M-Sa 7:30am-5pm.
• Public toilets: Available at the mercado central for ¢100.
• Police: (☎2436 2490, or 911), 1 block north and 4 blocks east of the parque ’s northeast corner, around the corner from the fire station. Some English spoken. Open M-F 9am-5pm. Emergencies 24hr.
• Pharmacy: Farmacia Fischel, Av. 1, C. 1/3 (☎2443 7626). Open daily 10am-10pm. AmEx/MC/V/US$/¢. Farmacia Santa Lucia, Av. Central/2, C. 1 (☎2440 0404). Open M-F 8am-8pm, Sa 9am-6pm. AmEx/MC/V/US$/¢.
• Hospital: Av. 9, C. Central/1 (☎2436 1001), 5 blocks north of the northeast corner of the parque, facing Parque de las Palmeras. Open 24hr.
• Telephones: Both coin- and card-operated phones are available at the parque.
• Internet Access: Cafes are scattered across the city.
• • El Reto, Av. 1, C. Central/1 (www.elretocr.com). New computers with Skype and headsets. ¢200 per 30min., ¢300 per hr. Calls to the US ¢40 per min. M-Sa 7:30am-9pm, Su 11am-6:35pm.
  • Internet Café, Av. 3/5, C. 1. Has computers with headsets as well as private international calling booths with fans. Internet ¢250 per hr. Open daily 8am-8pm. US$/¢.
  • Café Interactivo, Av. 3, C. Central/1 (☎2431 1984), is small with older computers. Internet ¢200 per 30min., ¢300 per hr. Open M-Sa 9am-9pm. US$/¢.
• Post Office: Av. 5, C. 1 (☎2443 2653), 2 blocks north and 1 block east of the northeast corner of the parque. Open M-F 8am-5:30pm, Sa 7:30am-noon. Postal Code: 4050.

Accommodations

• Vida Tropical B&B (☎2443 9576; www.vidatropical.com), 100m east and 300m north of the hospital, across from the Academia de Natación. Decorated in bright tropical colors, this comfortable B&B feels just like home. 5 cozy rooms share 2 beautiful baths, and 1 room at the back of the garden has a private bath. Guests enjoy pleasant 1st- and 2nd-fl. sitting areas with TV, hammocks, and a balcony. Choose from breads, eggs, and tropical fruits for breakfast. Massages available. Free Internet. The managers, Norman and Isabel, live in the building, and their hospitality is unmatched. Ask about reduced rates for extended stays. Laundry US$3. Singles US$30; doubles US$40; triples US$55; quad US$65. US$/¢.
• Hotel Mi Tierra, Av. 2, C. 3/5 (☎2441 1974 or 2441 4022; www.hotelmitierra.com). A swimming pool, communal kitchen, and cozy sitting room with cable TV make this hotel a comfortable place to hang out, while naming the rooms after Costa Rican cities adds a thoughtful touch. When he isn’t landscaping and painting, the English-speaking owner, Roberto, can provide a wealth of information about the town. Personalized kayaking and rafting tours available. Free baggage storage, parking, and transportation to and from the airport. Breakfast included. Singles and doubles US$35, with bath US$40; triples US$40/50; quad US$50/55. AmEx/MC/V/US$/¢.
• Los Volcanes, Av. 3, C. Central/2 (☎2441 0525; www.hotellosvolcanes.com). Sepia-toned photos complement the contemporary decor and hardwood floors. Free Wi-Fi, airport shuttle, and local calls. Breakfast included. Singles US$30, with hot-water bath US$40; doubles US$40/50; triples US$60/65. AmEx/MC/V/US$/¢.
• Hostel Trotamundos, Av. 5, C. 2/4 (☎2430 5832; www.hosteltrotamundos.com). This backpacker hangout is family-owned and offers free Internet access, cable TV, and a communal kitchen. Complimentary breakfast of coffee, toast, and fruit. Free baggage storage. Dorms US$12. Singles US$25, with bath US$30; doubles US$25/30; triples with shared bath US$35. MC/V/US$/¢.
• Hostel El Mango Verde, Av. 3, C. 2/4 (☎2441 7116; www.hostelmangoverde.com). Basic rooms surround a miniature garden courtyard and 3 open-air sitting areas with cable TV, a hammock, and video games. All rooms have fans, and services include laundry (US$5) and communal kitchen. Popular with young people and backpackers. Reservations recommended in high season. Singles US$15, with bath US$20; doubles US$25/30; triples US$10 per person. US$/¢.
• El Cortez Azul, Av. 5, C. 2/4 (☎2443 6145; cortezazul@latinmail.com). The common area is filled with the art of the manager, who speaks English. Common kitchen, 2 sitting areas with couches and cable TV, small backyard, and clean rooms. Services include whitewater rafting trips, tours to Volcán Poás, Volcán Arenal, the La Paz Waterfalls, and the area around Alajuela. Tour info at www.aventurasencostarica.com. Dorms US$10; singles US$20, with bath US$25; doubles with bath US$30. AmEx/MC/V/US$/¢.
• Hotel Pacandé, Av. 5, C. 2/4 (☎2443 8481; www.hotelpacande.com). A spiral staircase at the back of this hotel leads to a brightly painted loft with private bath that can house up to 4 people (US$40-60, depending on group size). Breakfast of fruit and coffee is served on the patio. All rooms have mirrors and towels. Free Internet, local calls, and transportation from the airport. Singles and doubles US$25, with bath US$35. Their second location, Pacandé Villa, is located 3km north of town. AmEx/MC/V/US$/¢.
• Hotel 1915, Av. 5/7, C. 2 (☎2441 0495 or 2440 7163; www.1915hotel.com). Formerly the home of the owner (and of her parents and grandparents before her), 1915 was recently converted into a hotel and renovated with a fancy sitting area and pleasant rooms. Free Internet and breakfast included. The priciest rooms have A/C. Singles US$40-60; doubles US$45-65; triples US$55-75. Apartment with kitchen available just down the block US$110. 16% service charge with credit card. AmEx/MC/V/US$/¢.
• Hotel Charly’s Place, Av. 5, C. Central/2 (☎2440 6853; www.charlysplacehotel.com), makes its niche clear with the motto “Save Money.” A rainbow of colors on the sheets and walls brighten up the simple dorm with a row of bunk beds and shared bath. Rooms have private hot-water baths and TVs. Breakfast included. Dorms US$10; singles US$25; doubles US$35; triples US$40. AmEx/MC/V/US$/¢.
• Pensión Alajuela (☎2441 6251; www.pensionalajuela.com), 4 blocks north of the parque, across from the judicial court and hospital. Fans and tropical murals. Attached bamboo bar. TV and towels available. Breakfast included. Free Wi-Fi, Internet ¢500 per 30min. Laundry ¢2000 per load. Reception 24hr. Check-out noon. Reservations recommended. Singles US$25, with bath US$30, with A/C US$40; doubles US$35/40/60; triples US$45/55/65; quads US$60, with bath US$75. Weekly and monthly rates available. 6% charge for credit cards. Traveler’s checks accepted. AmEx/MC/V/US$/¢.

Food

The largest supermarket is Palí, four blocks west and one block south of the southwest corner of the parque. (☎2442 6392. Open M-Sa 8:30am-8pm, Su 8:30am-6pm.) MegaSuper, on the south side of the parque at Av. Central, C. Central/2, is smaller but closer to the town center. (☎2441 1384. Open M-Th 8am-9pm, F-Sa 7am-9pm, Su 7am-8pm.) The mercado central, two blocks west of the parque, is a crowded collection of meat, cheese, fruit, and vegetable stands, as well as other shops. (Open M-F 7am-6pm, Sa 6am-6pm.)

• Cuigini Bar and Restaurant, Av. Central, C. 5 (☎2440 6893). Photos of Italian celebrities line the walls of this 2nd fl. restaurant. Menu mixes Southern Italian with American classics. Appetizers range from french fries (¢1150) to Sicilian shrimp (¢3560). Entrees include pasta (¢1250-5450) and a Frank Sinatra burger (¢2225). Live troba 3 nights per week. Extensive liquor selection from the bar. Open M-W 11:30am-10pm, F-Sa 11:30am-11pm, Su 4-10pm. Bar open until midnight or later. AmEx/MC/V/US$/¢.
• Coffee Dreams Café, Av. 1/3, C. 1 (☎2430 3970). It’s not just the coffee that’s a dream in this homey cafe. Ornate metal furniture, embroidered tablecloths, and black-and-white photos of coffee farmers blend European-style with Costa Rican authenticity. Choose from several satisfying entrees, such as the chicken lasagna, served with salad, garlic bread, refresco natural, and a delicious dessert (¢2300). Large selection of veggie dishes including salads, pies, and crepes (¢2300). A wide variety of espresso drinks (¢800 without liquor, ¢1300 with). Open M-Sa 8am-8pm. AmEx/D/MC/V/US$/¢.
• Jalapeños Central, Av. 3/5, C. 1 (☎2430 4027), 50m south of the post office. The Columbian owner, Norman, grew up in New York City and serves up delicious Tex-Mex food, including burritos (¢1750) and quesadillas (¢1800). Try the excellent sopa Azteca (¢2000), with cheese, guacamole, and tortillas. New York cheesecake ¢1200. Takeout and veggie options available. Open M-Sa 11:30am-9pm. AmEx/MC/V/US$/¢.
• La Mansarda Bar and Restaurant (☎2441 4390), is a large 2nd fl. restaurant located 25m south of the southeast corner of the parque. The dining area has plenty of tables, but locals mostly come to hang out at the bar. No Costa Rican meal is complete without ceviche (¢4350-4760) or steamy sopa de mariscos (seafood soup ¢3300). Also try one of the many chicken dishes (¢2800-4700). Wine ¢1300 per glass, ¢6000 per bottle. Open daily 11:30am-1am. AmEx/MC/V/US$/¢.
• Café Ambrosia, Av. 5, C. 2 (☎2440 3440). This simple, open-air cafe serves típico meals, as well as 4 types of lasagna (chicken, beef, palmito, and sweet corn with ham; ¢2000) and sandwiches (¢1200). Coffee drinks ¢450-800. Milkshakes ¢750. Beer ¢700-1000. Open daily 10am-7pm. MC/US$/¢.
• La Tacareña Bar and Restaurant, Av. 7, C. 2 (☎2441 2662). A refuge from the rain or a stressful day, the atmosphere is warm, the service is quick, and the food is tasty. Burgers and sandwiches (¢750-1400) are served in the glow of big-screen TVs and posters of volcanoes and rock groups. Entrees ¢1800-4500. Personal pizzas ¢3500-6500. Beer ¢850. Open M-Th 11am-11pm, F-Sa 11am-midnight, Su 11am-10pm. V/US$/¢.

Nightlife And Entertainment

The center of town gets pretty deserted at night, and there are few nightlife options. Relax at the bar of one of the neighborhood restauraunts or take a taxi (¢1300) to to one of the lively, expensive bars across the street from the airport, which are packed with tourists. Though Alajuela is considered one of Costa Rica’s safer cities, it is best to travel in a group or take a taxi after 9pm.

• Cuigini Bar and Restaurant (☎2440 6893). Owned by an American, many of the waiters and patrons here speak English. Cuigini boasts a huge selection of local and imported liquors. The restaurant upstairs serves delicious Southern Italian-American cuisine. Don’t miss the owner’s secret-recipe piña colada. Beer ¢700-900. Mixed drinks ¢1200-4200. Open Tu-Sa 11:30am-midnight (may stay open later depending on crowd), Su 4pm-midnight. AmEx/MC/V/US$/¢.
• La Mansarda Bar and Restaurant (☎2441 4390), 25m south of the southeast corner of the parque on the right. While primarily a restaurant, the bar here sees some local action at night. Live alternative rock music on weekends. Beer ¢700, mixed drinks ¢1500. Open daily 11:30am-1am. AmEx/MC/V/US$/¢.
• El Pueblo, just past Fiesta Casino on the road from the aiprot to Alajuela. Karaoke 8pm-5am every night, though it is most popular on weekends. Ask about the Bacardi 2-for-1 offer. Beer ¢1000. Mixed drinks ¢1500. Open 24hr.
• La Casona (☎2430 6005), on the road between Alajuela and the airport, across the street from El Pueblo. Popular with both tourists and locals, this spacious bar has a fountain and a big-screen TV in the corner. A large back room is sometimes used for live music and private functions. The menu includes many seafood entrees (¢2600-7300), including a few Peruvian soups and ceviches (¢2500). Beer US$2. Mixed drinks US$3-4. Open M-Th 11am-midnight, F-Sa 11am-1am, Su 11am-11pm.
• Fiesta Casino, by the airport, between Denny’s and Rosti Pollo. Live music 8pm. Poker and VIP room. Beer US$3. Mixed drinks US$5. M Ladies’ night. 18+. Open 24hr.

Daytrips From Alajuela

Volcán Poás

It is convenient to take a taxi and arrive when the park first opens (1hr., ¢20,000 round-trip). Buses depart daily from San José’s TUASA station, Av. 2, C. 12/14 (2hr., 8:30am, ¢22,250 round-trip). They stop at the TUASA station in Alajuela at 9:15am (1hr., ¢1750 round-trip) and arrive at Volcán Poás around 10:30am. The return bus leaves the park at 2:30pm. Bring something to do; you will likely finish sightseeing before the bus is ready to leave. Park open daily Dec.-Apr. 8am-4:30pm, May-Nov. 8am-3:30pm. US$10, kids US$2.

Fifty-five kilometers northwest of San José, Parque Nacional Volcán Poás is a cloud forest accessible by trails with moss, orchids, and dangling bromeliads. Poás is the most-visited national park between Mexico and Panama because of its proximity to San José and Alajuela and the ease with which it can be accessed. A steam-belching crater at the top of active Volcán Poás (2574m) forms the park’s main attraction. Inside the massive crater (1320m across and 300m deep) is a turquoise acid pool and fumaroles (vents in the earth’s crust) that release bursts of volcanic steam. The cone looks like a rainbow carved into the terrain, with vibrantly colored layers of gray, white, and red earth that trace the history of the volcano’s eruptions.

The Visitors Center features a small museum to educate guests about environmental preservation and appreciation. There is also a souvenir shop and a cafe with more than 20 flavors of cappuccino (¢900) and a smattering of lunch items and pastries (coffee, snacks, and sandwiches ¢700-1000). The most direct route to the crater is a 10min. walk up a gentle, paved path from the Visitors Center. Laguna Botos, the water-filled collapsed cone of a former volcano, is a 15min. walk beyond the crater. Look for the paved trail marked “Laguna Botos” just before the crater viewing area. It is an easy uphill walk. From there, return to the main trail or follow the more indirect Sendero Escalonia back to the parking area. Poás is most enjoyable in the morning, especially from May to November, as clouds and rain obscure the view by noon. Try to avoid visiting on Sundays, when the park is usually packed. The path to the crater is wheelchair accessible, and an ambulance is available daily.

Finca De Las Maripo Sas (Butterfly Farm)

Call ahead (}2438 0400; www.butterflyfarm.co.cr.) and the farm will provide transportation from San José or Alajuela. Otherwise, take the “Guácima Abajo” bus from the corner of Av. 2 and C. 8 in Alajuela (45min.; 6:45, 8:30, 9, 10:30am, 12:30, 1, 2:30pm; ¢175). Return buses run about every 30min. (11:15-11:45am and 1:15-5:15pm). Open daily 8:45am-5pm. Tours begin at 8:45, 11am, 1, 3pm, and last about 1½hr. English-language tour US$15, with ISIC US$10, children 4-12 US$7.50. Tours with transportation from San José US$25 per person. Call to find out discounts for groups of 10 or more. AmEx/MC/V/US$/¢.

Southwest of Alajuela in La Guácima, the renowned Finca de las Mariposas features a pleasant, rural garden that is home to 5% of Costa Rica’s butterfly species. The farm employs 300 local families to grow the butterflies, dramatically increasing the butterfly survival rate from the normal 2% in the wild. The tour includes a 20min. video presentation available in English, Spanish, French, and German. Tours in English or Spanish can be custom-tailored for private groups depending on age and area of interest. The four-acre farm, complete with a visitors center, small cafe, and gift shop, is Latin America’s oldest exporter of butterflies, selling more than 70 different species to zoos and insectariums all over the world. There are more species on display during the rainy season, but come early—butterflies tend to hide during afternoon showers. On some days, you can also watch as the butterfly pupas are inspected and packed for export. The guides also offer a combination tour, with a morning visit to the farm, lunch, and a tour of Café Britt (US$63 per person, includes transportation).

Zoo-Ave

In Alajuela, brightly-painted school buses leave from the lot between Av. Central/2 and C. 8/10 (¢130). A visit takes about 45min. ☎2433 8989. wwww.zooave.org. Open daily 9am-5pm. US$15, children 2-10 US$1.50. US$/¢.

The biggest bird reproduction center in Central America, Zoo-Ave breeds and rehabilitates birds, reptiles, and mammals before reintroducing them into the wild. The center feels like a lush forest, only interrupted by cages and paved paths. Take your time, and be sure not to miss the camouflaged animals hidden among the flora of their natural habitats. Visitors can see 100 species of birds, including quetzals and owls, along with monkeys and crocodiles.