The magnificent Cathédrale Ste-Cécile dominates the winding cobblestone streets of Albi (al-bee; pop. 55,000) along the tree-lined Tarn River. The lights of Paris and the Moulin Rouge lured away native son Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, but his celebrated paintings remain. The Toulouse-Lautrec Museum alone is worth the journey to this small city. Albi enchants with its red-bricked beauty and casual spirit, but budget travelers should be aware that this is not a town of bargains. To save, make Albi a daytrip from the easily accessible Toulouse, which has more affordable food and lodging.
Albi’s accommodations fill up despite steep prices; be sure to reserve ahead to secure a room, especially for summer weekends. For info on gîtes d’étape and rural camping, consult ATTER (☎05 63 48 83 01; www.gites-tarn.com).
Near Albi, the region of Gaillac is home to estates that prepare some of the best wines in the southwest. There is a market on rue Émile Grand (open Tu-Su 8am-noon) and a flea market at place du Forail (open Sa 8am-noon). Stock up on groceries at Casino, 39 rue Lices Georges Pompidou. (Open M-Sa 9am-7:30pm. AmEx/MC/V.) Otherwise, the region’s food is excellent but comes at a price.
Cathédrale Sainte-Cécile. This red-brick cathedral is the pride of Albi. Stained-glass windows, lavish gold and blue walls, and graphic frescoed depictions of Hell create an imposing manifestation of the medieval church’s power. Built between the 13th and 14th centuries, the cathedral enforced the “one true religion,” which flowered after Catharism was rooted out in the Albigeois Crusade. Carvings line the choir walls in intricate, lace-like patterns; don’t miss the grapes carved by homesick Burgundian workers. The un-restored fresco covering the entire ceiling, painted in 1512, is the world’s largest Italian Renaissance painting. (☎05 63 43 23 43. Open daily June-Sept. 9am-6pm; Oct.-May 9am-noon and 2-6pm. Mass M-F 6:20pm, Su 11:15am. Free organ concerts from mid-July to Aug. W 5pm, Su 4pm. Tours by the tourist office daily from mid-July to Aug. 10am, 2:30pm; early July and early Sept. 2:30pm. Choir €2. Treasury €2. Tour €6.40. Included audio tour is available in many languages.)
Palais De La Berbie. This 13th-century former bishop’s palace was constructed in a defensive style, reflecting the tense relations between the church and the ruling family. The fortress displayed the clergy’s wealth and power; it was both the tribunal and prison for those charged by the church. Beautiful gardens and walkways, crafted after the building was converted into a residence, offer splendid vistas of the Tarn River. For the best views of the palace itself, cross the Tarn. The palace now contains the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec. The son of the count of Toulouse, Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec moved to Paris to experience the high life of cafes, nightclubs, and brothels. His art captured the pathos of late 19th-century city life. The museum’s impressive collection of his oil paintings and ink prints includes all 31 of the famous posters of Montmartre nightclubs. Works by Degas, Dufy, Matisse, and Rodin are displayed on the fourth floor. Major renovations are under way, so expect some changes in 2009. (☎05 63 49 48 70. Open July-Aug. daily 9am-6pm; Sept. and June daily 9am-noon and 2-6pm; Oct. M and W-Su 10am-noon and 2-5:30pm; Nov.-Feb. M and W-Su 10am-noon and 2-5pm; Apr.-May daily 10am-noon and 2-6pm. Gardens open daily 9am-7pm. Tours June-Sept. 11:15am, 4pm. €5, students €2.50. Garden free. Tours €9.40/6.90. Audio tour €3.)
When the sun goes down, the crowds come out along place de l’Archevêché in front of the Palais de la Berbie and on Lices Georges Pompidou.
Buses run on school schedules to Cordes. Consult the tourist office for exact times or call carrier Sudcar Rolland (☎05 63 54 18 39; 40min., M-F 2 per day,€5.30; W bus returns in the early afternoon). Alternatively, catch the train from Albi and use the minicar Taxi Barrois (☎05 63 56 14 80; €4.20).
Perched on a hill and surrounded by a crumbling wall 24km from Albi, the center of this tiny city is accessible only by a steep, cobblestone street. Cordes-sur-Ciel (cord-suhr-s’yell), whose former name of Cordes was changed to reflect its position, passes for a city in the sky. Archaeologist Charles Portal preserved much of the town’s medieval architecture; wherever you look, there are stone or half-timbered houses. The best thing to do in Cordes is wander around, resign yourself to an overpriced meal, and bask in the quaintness.
Once you’ve had your fill of charming homes, check out the Musée de l’Art du Sucre, 33 grande rue Raymond VII, which sells all kinds of sweets and includes a small but impressive exhibit on the use of sugar as an artistic medium. The subjects displayed include a model of Grande Rue Raymond VII and an 80kg female nude sculpted from a massive block of chocolate. Try a free sample of the local croquante cordaise. (☎05 63 56 02 40. Open Mar.-Oct. daily 10am-12:30pm and 1:30-7pm. €3.) The Musée de l’Art Moderne, Maison du Grand Fauconnier, boasts a few works by Miró and Picasso among its five rooms of modern artwork, all accessible by a key given as a ticket. (☎05 63 56 14 79. Open daily June-Sept. 11am-12:30pm and 2-7pm; Oct. and Apr.-May 11am-12:30pm and 2-6:30pm; Nov.-Mar. 2-5pm. €3.50, students €2, under 12 free.) The Museé Charles Portal, Portail Peint, 12 grand rue Raymond VII, chronicles the town’s history with a collection of the honored explorer’s finds. (☎05 63 56 00 52. €2.30, ages 12-18 €1.10, under 12 free.) Across the street, place de la Bride once served as the town’s defensive platform. Today, it provides a panoramic view of the countryside. Just past pl. de la Bride is the Puits de la Halle, a 114m deep well constructed in 1222 by tunneling through an entire mountain; the oasis supplied Albi with water during sieges. To the left, behind the well, sits the Église Saint-Michel, whose tower marks the highest point in town.
For a few days around July 14, fire-eaters play to a costumed crowd during the Fête du Grand Fauconnier, which offers plays, concerts, magic shows, banquets, and a medieval market. (☎05 63 56 49 13. €8, under 18 €3, those dressed in medieval attire free. Costumes can be borrowed from the festival costumerie. ) The Festival Musique sponsors classical music concerts during late July. (☎05 63 56 00 75. Tickets €25-30, students €10-15.)
A market takes place at the bottom of the hill next to the bus stop. (Open Sa 8am-noon.) The tourist office, Maison du Pays Cordais, 8 pl. Jeanne Ramel-Cals, offers guided tours and books accommodations for free. From the bus stop in town, the office is 50m ahead and to the left. (☎05 63 56 00 52; www.cordes-sur-ciel.org. 1hr. tours July-Aug.; €4.50, students €3.50, under 18 €1.50. Open July-Aug. daily 9:30am-1pm and 2-6:30pm; Sept. M 2-6pm, Tu-Su 10:30am-12:30pm and 2-6pm; Oct. M and Sa 2-6pm, Tu-F and Su 10:30am-12:30pm and 2-6pm; Nov.-Mar. hours vary; Apr.-June M and Sa-Su 2-6pm, Tu-F 10:30am-12:30pm and 2-6pm.) There is an annex (☎05 63 56 14 79) in the Musée de l’Art Moderne, on top of the hill. A petit train runs between the annex in the haute-ville and the main branch (May-Sept. daily 9:30am-12:50pm and 2-5:50pm every 20min.; €2.50, under 12 €1.50).
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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