Astorga Overview

In the 15th century, Astorga was a vital stop on both the Roman silver route and the Camino de Santiago. It became one of the world’s main chocolate-making centers in the 17th century, and until the turn of the 20th century, there were 49 chocolate factories in Astorga alone. Today, confiterías still infuse the streets with their sweet aromas. One of the oldest towns in Castilla y León, Astorga still houses the vestiges of centuries of history, which seem to whisper from the walls that protect it. Modern sights include the fantastically odd Palacio Episcopal, a Gaudí masterpiece sitting atop this hillside city.

Transportation. The train station (☎987 61 64 44) is located on Pl. de la Estació and runs to: Barcelona (11hr.; 12:38, 11:48pm, via Lugo and Burgos; €45-56); Burgos (2hr.; 12:38, 2:20, 11:48pm; €21-25); Gijón (2hr.; 12:24pm, M-F Su 6:23pm; €12); León (40min., 8 per day 3:02am-11:48pm, €3.15-14); Madrid (3-5hr.; 3:02am, 6:23pm; €30-41); Vigo (6hr.; 6:09am, 2:44, 5:10pm; €26-35). Buses (☎987 61 91 00) run from the station at Av. las Murallas, 54, to Ponferrada (M-F 14 per day 6:40am-10:10pm, Sa-Su 6 per day 8:20am-9:15pm; €4.60), Vitoria/Bilbao (F and Su 3am, 1:30pm; €26), and Oviedo (5 per day 9:50am-8pm, €10.28).

Practical Information And Orientation. There is a tourist office at Glorieta Eduardo de Castro, 5. (☎987 60 30 65; www.ayuntamientodeastorga.com. Open Oct.-June daily 10am-1:30pm and 4-6:30pm; July-Sept. 10am-2pm and 4-7pm.) From the train station, head straight uphill onto Av. Estación. Continue uphill until the Pl. de Ponfidio Lopez, and head straight onto C. de las Enfermeras, diagonally across the street. At the Pl. de Obispo Alcolea, turn right onto C. Los Sitios. The tourist office is on your left in the Pl. I. Eduardo de Castro. To get there from the bus station, cross the street into the park with the cathedral in front of you. Walk up the stairs, then turn left on the street in front of cathedral. The tourist office will be on your right in the following plaza. A bank, Santander Central Hispano, is on Pl. Obispo Alcolea. From the tourist office, go down Los Sitios, which becomes Pl. Obispo Alcolea. (Open M-F 8:30am-2pm; Oct.-Mar. 8:30am-1pm.) Local services include police (☎987 61 60 80) and ambulance (☎987 61 85 62). Internet access is at Ciber@stoR, C. Manuel Gullón, 2. (☎987 61 80 17. €2 per hr. 15min., min. €0.50. Open daily 10am-2pm and 4pm-midnight, Su noon-2pm and 4pm-midnight.) Postal Code: 24700.

Accommodations And Food. Cheap accommodations are scarce in Astorga; some may prefer to stay in León and visit Astorga as a daytrip. Pensión Garcia , Bajada del Postigo, 3, situated on a sloping, cozy little street overlooking a small park, has moderately priced rooms with worn pine floors, clean hall bathrooms, and a bright common room. (☎987 61 60 46. Singles €20; doubles €30.) Another option is Hostal San Narcisco , Ctra. Madrid-Coruña, km 325. Although a bit out of the way and located above an all-night bar, this hostal offers spacious, standard rooms for decent prices. To get there, take the C. Leon from the plaza right behind the cathedral out to the highway. (☎987 615 370. Singles €20, with bathroom €25; doubles €30/36.)

Astorga is one place where no one could blame you for eating dessert first: the streets are lined with beckoning chocolaterías and pastry shops. For a full meal, the area around Plaza Mayor has plenty to offer the hungry traveler. The restaurant Ruta Romana , under the same ownership, are located at Pl. Santocildes, 9. Cafeteria has standard tapas fare: ham croquettes (€3) and a variety of salads (€5-7) fill out the menu. For a more formal meal, visit the restaurant downstairs. (☎987 60 30 20. Menú €11. Tapas and raciones €3-9. Desserts €2-4. Open daily 8am-midnight. Restaurant open 1-4pm and 9pm-midnight. MC/V.) Taberna los Hornos , Pl. de España, 3, serves good traditional food in a relaxed, tavern-like atmosphere, or on its outdoor terrace. (☎987 61 89 00. Entrees €8-11, tapas €3-4. Open daily 8am-1am, kitchen open 9am-1pm.) For the basics, try Gadis Supermercado, Pl. Santocildes, 6. (Open daily 9am-2:30pm and 5-9pm. MC/V.)

Sights. Created by Antoni Gaudí, the   Palacio Episcopal (Bishop’s Palace) is Astorga’s main attraction. The palace is set upon a section of the ancient Roman wall, and the turrets, main entryway, and beveled stone exterior, as well as the funky, colorful interior, are pure Gaudí. The palace houses the Museo de los Caminos, which exhibits historic and contemporary interpretations of the Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage, as well as a permanent exposition of contemporary work from Leonese artists. (☎987 61 68 82. Open July-Sept. Tu-Sa 10am-2pm and 4-8pm, Su 10am-2pm; Oct.-June Tu-Sa 11am-2pm and 4-6pm, Su 11am-2pm. €2.50, over 65 or under 18 €1.50.) Sugar fiends must stop by the   Museo de Chocolate, C. José María Goy, 5. This museum chronicles the history of chocolate that is so dear to Astorgans, given the city’s past as chocolate pioneer and factory-central since the 17th century. With cocoa beans, chocolate molds, cocoa grinders, vintage ads, and samples of local chocolate, this little museum is a sweet find. From the Palacio Episcopal, walk up C. los Sitios to Pl. Obispo Alcolea; veer to the right onto C. Lorenzo Segura and C. José María Goy is on the right. (Open May-Sept. Tu-Sa 10:30am-2pm and 4:30-7pm, Su 11am-2pm; Oct.-Apr. 10:30am-2pm and 4-6pm, Su 11am-2pm. €2.) The Museo Romano, Pl. San Bartolomé, offers a joint ticket (€3), and features artifacts and relics from Astorga’s Roman and pre-Roman past. (Open July-Sept. 10am-1:30pm and 4:30-7pm, Su 10am-1:30pm; Oct.-June Tu-Sa 10am-1:30pm and 4-6pm, Su 10am-1:30pm. €2.) If you have an hour to spare, walk the Roman walls encircling the city for magnificent views of Astorga and the far-off mountains.