With a Roman amphitheater seemingly plopped in the middle of its surrounding fields, Autun (aw-tuhn; pop. 18,000) strikes a balance between its rich past and its thriving modern spirit. Founded around 15 BC by Emperor Augustus as a “sister and rival of Rome,” the city is still oddly littered with stony remnants of the empire. Today, history buffs rejoice in Autun’s ancient offerings, while others enjoy relaxing in the city’s tranquil atmosphere.
The main street, avenue Charles de Gaulle, runs from the train station to central place du Champ du Mars. Head left onto av. de la République from the station and turn right on av. Charles de Gaulle. To get to the vieille ville from there, follow the signs from rue aux Cordeliers or rue St-Saulge.
For a quick picnic on the ancient steps of the Théâtre Romain, grab supplies at ATAC supermarket, 46 av. Charles de Gaulle. (Open M-Sa 8:30am-7pm.) Morning markets are held in place du Champ du Mars. (Open W and F 7am-noon.) Restaurants and pizzerias line the streets around the cathedral.
Théâtre Romain. Northeast of the vieille ville, this theater is delightfully un-restored. Its remaining stones emerge from the grassy hillside, and picnickers relax where 12,000 enthralled spectators once sat. (From the cathedral, take rue du Chanoine Triquetat to the opposite end of pl. St-Louis; bear left onto rue Piolin at pl. d’Hallencourt. Turn right on rue du Faubourg St-Pancrace, left on rue St-Branchez, and walk straight past the cemetery; the theater is on the left (25min.). ☎03 85 52 52 52.) During the first two weekends in August, 600 locals bring chariot races and Roman games to life in the much-hyped Augustodunum show, held in the original theater. Unfortunately, the festivities are in French and might be difficult for an Anglophone to follow. (☎03 85 86 80 13. Tickets sold at the tourist office. €14, ages 6-12 €5, under 6 free.)
Pierre De Couhard. Rue du Vieux Colombier or rue St-Branchez provide the best view of this 30m pyramid-shaped brick structure. The purpose of the pyramid remains unclear, although recent excavations unearthed a 1900-year-old plaque that cursed anyone who disturbed the slumber of the man inside.
Cathédrale Saint-Lazare. At the top of the upper city, the cathedral rises above the Morvan countryside; the uphill walk from pl. du Champ de Mars feels like a pilgrimage. The elaborate tympanum (sculpted panel) above the church doors, which depicts the Last Judgment with expressive 12th-century figures, escaped the ravages of the Revolution. Before heading for a drink at one of the bars nearby, look to the right of the tympanum to see the sculpted fate of the drunkard with his barrel—you may opt for a café au lait instead. Information cards are available in Dutch, English, French, and German. (Follow chemin des Manies, a footpath off chemin des Ragots, at the end of rue St-Branchez. Open daily 8am-7pm and 9-11pm. Capital room open until 6:30pm.)
Musée Rolin. This museum features the city’s true archaeological treasures, including mosaic floors harvested from ruins and 12th- to 15th-century statues and paintings taken from St-Lazare for safekeeping. Get a bird’s-eye view of the cathedral without the climb; the museum houses an intricate model of the church. (5 rue des Bancs, next to the cathedral. ☎03 85 52 09 76. Open Apr.-Sept. M and W-Su 9:30am-noon and 1:30-6pm; Oct.-Mar. Su 10am-noon and 2:30-5pm. €3.40, students €1.80.)
Other Sights. Several landmarks stand as reminders of Autun’s former role as Roman Gaul’s largest city. The easiest way to see these sights is on the petit train, which leaves from pl. du Champ de Mars and from the tourist office annex near the cathedral. Tours are given in French, but English translations are available. (50min., from late June to Aug. 7 per day 10am-6pm.) Check out the first-century Temple de Janus, in the fields behind the train station. The two remaining walls, which tower over pastures, offer a framed view of Autun’s cathedral. (From the train station, make a left on av. de la République and another left onto rue de Paris, which becomes rue du Faubourg d’Arroux. Continue ahead, cross the bridge, and turn left onto a footpath that goes to the ruins.) This route to the temple will carry you through the Porte d’Arroux, one of the city’s two remaining Roman gates. The arches once led the way to the Via Agrippa, the main trade road connecting Lyon and Boulogne and the source of Autun’s ancient wealth. Better-preserved Porte Saint-André is at the intersection of rue de la Croix Blanche and rue de Gaillon. Autun’s ramparts and towers, including the Tour des Ursulines by the cathedral, are best seen from the hills above. To get there, take one of the paths off rue du Faubourg St-Blaise past the vieille ville and head toward the Pierre de Couhard. As part of the Morvan Valley, Autun provides access to over 2400km of mountain-biking trails. Ask the tourist office for the guide Le Morvan à VTT (€13, French only) or call the Morvan Park Authority for more information. (☎03 86 78 79 57.)
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