Avallon Overview

Though the oldest section of town contains picturesque 17th-century homes and specialty stores, Avallon (ah-vah-lohn; pop. 8217) isn’t exactly every tourist’s dream. Centered on its train and bus station, it lacks compelling sights and inexpensive hotels. Yet it offers a central base in the stunning Vallée de Cousin, from which to take breathtaking daytrips to the Morvan surrounding countryside. Worthwhile sites nearby include small Burgundian towns like Vézelay or Sémur-en-Auxois as well as numerous vineyards and châteaux.

• Trains: Pl. de la Gare. Open M-F 6:30am-noon and 1:30-8pm, Sa 5:30am-noon and 2-6:10pm, Su 9:15am-noon and 3:30-6:30pm. To Autun (1hr.; M-Sa 3-4 per day, Su 1 per day; €14), Auxerre (1hr., 4-5 per day, €8.70), and Paris (2-3hr., 4 per day, €28-50).
• Buses: Pl. de la Gare. To Vézelay (25min.; July-Aug. M-F 9:20am, Sa-Su 10:45am, return daily 5:28pm; Sept.-June 1 bus F evening, returns M morning; €3.70). TRANSCO buses (☎03 80 42 11 00) to Dijon (2hr.; M-Sa 3 per day, Su 5:05pm; €17) via Semur-en-Auxois (45min.; M-Sa 3 per day, Su 1 per day; €7.40). Schedule at tourist office.
• Taxis: ☎03 86 34 04 52. 24hr.
• Bike Rental: M. Gueneau, 26 rue de Paris (☎03 86 34 28 11). €16 per day. Helmets not available. Open Tu-Sa 8am-noon and 2-6pm. MC/V.

Practical Information

• Tourist Office: 6 rue Bocquillot (☎03 86 34 14 19; www.avallonnais-tourisme.com). From the station, head onto av. du Président Doumer, turn right onto rue Carnot, and swing left onto rue de Paris at the intersection. Walk through pl. Vauban and onto Grande Rue Aristide Briand, which passes through the Tour de l’Horloge and ends at the office (15-20min.). Offers free accommodations service, Internet (€2 per 30min.), and city maps (€0.50). Open from mid-June to Sept. daily 9:30am-1:30pm and 2:30-7pm; Oct.-Mar. M 2:30-6pm, Tu-Sa 10am-12:30pm and 2:30-6pm; from Apr. to mid-June M-Sa 10am-12:30pm and 2:30-6pm; longer hours during holidays and festivals.
• Laundromat: 8 rue du Marché, off pl. du Général de Gaulle. Open daily 7am-9pm.
• Police: 2 av. Victor Hugo (☎03 86 31 09 50).
• Hospital: 1 rue de l’Hôpital (☎03 86 34 66 00).
• Internet Access: Café de l’Europe (see Food, ). €4.60 per hr.
• Post Office: 9 rue des Odebert (☎03 86 34 91 05). Open M 10am-noon and 1-5:30pm, Tu-Th 8:30am-12:30pm and 1:30-5:30pm, F 8:30am-6pm, Sa 8:30am-12:30pm. Postal Code: 89200.

Accommodations And Camping

• Hôtel de Rocher, 11 rue des Isles Laboume (☎03 86 34 19 03). From the centre-ville, follow rue Paris to Grande Rue Aristide Briand, straight onto rue Bocquillot, and past the church. Continue downhill at each fork until rue des Isles Laboume (25min.). Gracious couple manages the town’s best budget option. Each room has sink and dresser. Breakfast €5. Showers in the hall (€1). Singles €20; doubles €27. MC/V.
• Hôtel St-Vincent, 3 rue de Paris (☎03 86 34 04 53). Intricate wallpaper, cozy quilts, and antique armoires entertain the eye at this snug hotel. Each room has a TV and shower. Breakfast €5.50. Reception M-Sa 8am-11pm at restaurant. Singles from €35; doubles from €40; triples €46; quads €60. MC/V.
• Les Capucins, 6 av. du Président Doumer (☎03 86 34 06 52), 5min. from the station. Very professional staff. Each room tastefully furnished with TV, desk, toilet, and shower or bath. Larger suites are particularly elegant, with spacious marble bathrooms. Many rooms have A/C. Restaurant downstairs has full menus from €17 and vegetarian plats from €12. Breakfast €7. Reception 7:30am-11pm. Reservations recommended. Singles and doubles €40-55; triples €61; quads €69. AmEx/MC/V.
• Camping Municipal Sous-Roche (☎03 86 34 10 39), 2km downhill from the centre-ville. From the train station, walk straight on av. du Président Doumer, turn left on rue Carnot, and continue straight through the intersection at rue de Lyon. Follow the signs to this quiet campground across the street from a river. Laundry and small grocery store on-site. Reception 8am-noon and 2-7pm. Open from mid-Mar. to mid-Oct. €3 per person, under 7 €1.50; €2 per car; sites €2. Electricity €3. Cash only.

Food

Pick up groceries at the Petit Casino supermarket, 31 rue de Paris. (☎03 86 34 50 63. Open Tu-Sa 8am-12:30pm and 3-7:15pm, Su 8:45am-noon.) Morning markets are held on place du Marché (Sa) and on place du Général de Gaulle (Th).

• Relais des Gourmets, 45-47 rue de Paris (☎03 86 34 18 90). Saucy vegetarian and traditional Burgundian fare. Elegant dining room outfitted with full-grown indoor trees. Unlimited hors d’oeuvres buffet €14. Vegetarian menus €21. Reservations recommended. Open daily noon-1:30pm and 7-9:15pm. AmEx/MC/V.
• La Pizzeria de la Tour, 84 Grande Rue Aristide Briand (☎03 86 34 24 84). A variety of Italian and Burgundian dishes—from pizza to escargots —in a half-timbered 15th-century house behind the Tour de l’Horloge. Try the formule cinéma (€14), which includes a pizza and a ticket to the local movie theater. Large salads €5-11. Pizzas €7.50-10. Open Tu-Sa 11:45am-2pm and 6:45-10:30pm. MC/V.
• Café de l’Europe, 7 pl. Vauban (☎03 86 34 04 45). Watch all of Avallon walk by from the porch of this bustling hangout. Dinner formule including salad, plat du jour, wine, and coffee from €8. Salads from €5.50. Sandwiches from €5. Pizzas €7-10. Open daily 7am-midnight. Bar open until 2am. MC/V over €16.

Sights 

Those with more than a few hours to kill in Avallon should consider a walk through the surrounding countryside. The tourist office provides a free map of an 8km walk covering the area’s highlights.

  Musée Du Costume.   Historical narrative meets fashion show with rooms full of 18th- to 20th-century haute couture. Mannequins dressed in their finest sit in the extensive rooms of this mansion, which are decorated as they were when the house belonged to the governor of Burgundy in the 17th century. (6 rue Belgrand, off Grande Rue Aristide Briand. ☎03 86 34 19 95. Open from mid-Apr. to Nov. daily 10:30am-12:30pm and 1:30-5:30pm. Tours in French. €4, students and under 18 €2.50.)