Ayutthaya Overview

The spectacular ruins of the ancient Thai capital of Ayutthaya are only a few hours from Bangkok, in the middle of a modern town. For more than four centuries, both Thai culture and international trade flourished in this royal city, whose population reached one million by the end of the 17th century. The city raised 33 successive kings and repelled 23 Burmese invasions before the Burmese finally sacked it in 1767. They wreaked such devastation that the Thai capital moved to Bangkok, and Ayutthaya never regained its former glory. Today, this UNESCO World Heritage Site offers visitors all the ruins they could want, right in the midst of the speeding motorcycles, late-night food stalls, and 7-Elevens of a modern Thai town. The ruins are best seen in the evening, when the crowds thin, the heat relents, and floodlights illuminate the wats.

• Trains: Ayutthaya Train Station (☎35 241 521), on the mainland east of the island. Take the convenient and pleasant ferry from U Thong Rd. (3฿) and walk up the street to reach the station. Otherwise, it’s a long walk across Pridi Damrong Bridge and up your 1st left ( tuk-tuk 40-80฿). Trains to: Bangkok’s Hualamphong Station (1½-2hr., about 20 per day 4:20am-10pm, 15-20฿); Chiang Mai via Phitsanulok (12-13hr., 4 per day, 161-1253฿); Lopburi (1hr., 8 per day, 17฿); Saraburi (1hr., 14 per day, 9฿); Udon Thani (9hr., 5 per day, 145-306฿).
• Buses: Ayutthaya has 3 bus stations.
• • Naresuan Rd. has a small station 1 block east of Chikun Rd. Fan and A/C buses go to and from Bangkok’s Northern Bus Terminal (1-2hr., every 20min. 5am-7:10pm, 30-47฿) and the Bangkok airport (1-2hr., 1 per hr. 5am-7pm, 40฿).
  • Chao Phrom Market, also on Naresuan Rd. A chaotic mess of local buses leaving from the west end of the market to Saraburi (#358, 2hr., every 30min. 6am-5:30pm, 40฿), connecting to destinations in the northeast, and Suphanburi (#703; 1hr.; every 25min. 6am-5pm; 40฿), connecting with #411 to Kanchanaburi.
  • Mainland bus terminal, 5km east of the island ( tuk-tuk 70฿). Hub for buses to and from the north. Buses go to: Chiang Mai (9hr., 14 per day 6:30am-10:40pm, 283-570฿); Phitsanulok (5hr., 10 per day 7am-7pm, 140฿); and Sukhothai (6hr.; 9 per day 7am-8:30pm, 169฿; VIP 11:30am and 9pm, 256฿). Buses from this station run regularly to Chiang Rai, Tak, and Nan.
• Ferries: Continuous ferries to the mainland and the train station leave from an alley off U Thong Rd., near the intersection with Horattanachai Rd. Longtail boats and cruisers, which fit up to 8 people, can be hired at Chantharkasem Palace pier (the island’s northeast tip) for trips around the island (1-2hr.; 500฿, with 2 temple stops 600฿).
• Local Transportation: Tuk-tuk/songthaew hybrids wheel around the island (between any two points on the island 30-100฿, 150฿ per hr., 700-900฿ per day). Drivers here are less likely to scam travelers. Most guesthouses rent bicycles (40-60฿ per day). Bicycle quality varies considerably, so shop around.

Orientation And Practical Information

Encircled by U Thong Road, the Ayutthaya city center is an island at the intersection of the Chao Phraya, Pa Sak, and Lopburi Rivers. Buses from nearby cities stop next to the Chao Phrom Market at the corner of Naresuan and U Thong Rd., near Khlong Makham Rieng Road on the island’s northeastern corner, while buses from northern Thailand arrive east of the island, 5km beyond the Pridi Damrong Bridge. Although wats are found all over the island, most tourist attractions cluster north of the Tourist Information Center on Si Sanphet Road. Guesthouses are concentrated in the eastern part of the island on Soi Pamapro 5, north of the Chao Phrom Market.

• Tourist Offices: Tourist Information Center (☎035 322 730), on Si Sanphet Rd., a 5min. walk south of Wat Phra Si Sanphet. Sponsored by TAT. Carries timetables and large, handy maps. The refreshingly air-conditioned Ayutthaya Historical Exhibition Hall on the 2nd fl. gives insight into the old capital. Another permanent exhibit displays the work of local artists. Office open daily 8:30am-4:30pm.
• Tours: A store with a sign that reads “Tourist Information Services,” across from Tony’s Place , right before Ayutthaya Guest House, arranges bike tours (80฿) and nighttime tuk-tuk tours (180฿ per person) of the wats. Open daily 8am-10pm.
• Currency Exchange: Many banks along the eastern stretch of Naresuan and the northeastern curve of U Thong Rd. have 24hr. ATMs. Close to the guesthouses is Siam Commercial Bank, next to the Naresuan Rd. bus station. Open M-F 8:30am-3:30pm.
• Local Tourist Police: (☎035 241 446 and 035 342 446 115-5), on Si Sanphet Rd. next to the TAT office (not to be confused with the nearby Tourist Information Center). Some English spoken. Open 24hr.
• Medical Services: Ayutthaya Hospital, 46 U Thong Rd. (☎035 241 888), at the intersection of Si Sanphet and U Thong Rd. English spoken. Open 24hr. Cash only.
• Internet Access: Unnamed store next to the Tourist Information Services (on the main strip of guesthouses) has Internet access for 40฿ per hr. (open 9am-11pm). A few of the guesthouses and Coffee & Tea (next to Moon Cafe) have free, often slow, Internet available.
• Telephones: International telephone booths at the GPO and at P.U. Inn .
• Post Offices: GPO, 123/11 U Thong Rd. (☎035 252 246), on the island’s northeast corner. Poste Restante. Open M-F 8:30am-4:30pm, Sa 9am-noon. Postal Code: 13000.

Accommodations

Ayutthaya has many promising budget accommodations, most huddled on a block-long strip on Naresuan Soi 1, north of Naresuan Rd., near Chao Phrom Market bus stop. Most places have laundry and bike rental, and many provide tour services. Rates increase and lodgings become scarce from Nov.-Dec.

• Baan Lotus Guesthouse, 20 Pamapro Rd. (☎35 251 988). From the backpacker strip, turn left on Pamapro Rd.; the entrance to Baan Lotus is about 1 block down, on the left. Traditional teak Thai house, with rooms opening onto shared verandas, offering an airy respite from the Ayutthaya heat. The thin wooden shutters and handful of roosters give the place a rural feel, but might make it hard for some travelers to get a good night’s sleep. Gracious owner is eager to help with tours and local travel advice. Large rooms 240฿, singles with A/C and bath 500฿, doubles 600฿.
• U.P. Inn, 20/1 Soi Thor Korsor (☎35 251 213). From Naresuan Rd., head up the soi opposite the bus station next to the Chao Phrom Market and make a left following the signs. Large, clean rooms and hot showers. All rooms with fan have private bath, but not all have good air circulation. Motorbike rental 250฿ per day. Internet access 15฿ per min, 60฿ per hr. International phone. Nighttime tours of ruins. Singles and doubles 180-350฿, with A/C 550฿.
• Tony’s Place, 12/18 Naresuan Soi 1 Rd. (☎35 252 578), across from Ayutthaya Guest House. The heart of farang social life, with backpacker prices to boot. Worn but clean rooms. Sprawling hang-out space includes a restaurant, bar, TV lounge, and pool table. Breakfast at 7am. Bar open until midnight. Motorbike rental 250฿ per day; reserve in advance. Dorms 80-100฿; doubles 250฿, with bath 300฿, with A/C 450฿.
• Bann Kunpra, 48 Moo 3 U Thong Rd. (☎35 241 978; www.bannkunpra.com), beside the river, between the ferry dock and the bridge. Sumptuously decorated with antiques and showcasing a romantic riverside restaurant—an excellent choice for a splurge. The dorm is lovely. Riverside rooms are quieter than those on the street. 4-bed dorm with shared baths 250฿; singles 300฿; doubles 400-600฿, with A/C 800฿.
• Chantana Guest House, 12/22 Naresuan Rd. (☎35 323 200), next to Tony’s Place. Quiet, simple, and clean. All rooms have Western toilets and shower; upstairs digs have balconies and are far sunnier than downstairs ones. Reserve in advance. Singles and doubles with large bed 300฿, with A/C and hot shower 400฿.

Food

Ayutthaya is a great town for market eating. Food stalls serving 20฿ chicken and rice are interspersed with tables of toys, dried fish, and fruit at Chao Phrom Market, one block east of the local bus stop (Open daily 7am-7pm). More stalls line U Thong Rd., particularly on the eastern side of the island, after the post office. For dinner, try the food stalls at the night markets such as the Hua Ro Night Market (open nightly 4-10pm) and the Bang Lan Night Market (open nightly 5-9pm). Most farang take many of their meals in Ayutthaya at the local guesthouses.

• Malakor, on Chikun Rd., opposite Wat Ratchaburana. Great, cheap local food in a cool bamboo-laced porch with a view of the wat. Make anything on the menu vegetarian by substituting tofu for meat. The river fish spicy soup (75฿) is a piquant house specialty. Dishes 40-120฿. Open daily 10am-10pm.
• Thai House Restaurant (Ruenthai Maisuay Restaurant), 8/2 Moo 3 Klongsuanplu District, down the road from Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon, around the bend, on the right. Worth the trek from town, or a good place to stop for a snack while wat -touring. Wooden boats are moored in mossy gardens at the entrance to this elegant teak house, where patrons enjoy such rarefied dishes such as salted eggs in fish cake (100฿). Dishes 80-250฿. Open daily 10am-10pm.
• Bann Kunpra’s restaurant, (see Accommodations, above) offers an ambitious Thai-European fusion cuisine on a romantic riverside terrace (prawn skewers 50฿).
• Saithong River Restaurant, 45 Moo 1 U Thong Rd. (☎35 241 449), close to the intersection of U Thong and Chikun Rd. A classy Thai crowd gathers to sample local delicacies (the “wild” section of the menu includes many frog dishes) and potent curries. Restaurant surrounds a bodhi tree and overlooks the bustling river. Small portions. Dishes 80-180฿. Open daily 10am-9:30pm.
• Rhan Rup Rong Restaurant, 13/112 Moo 2 U Thong Rd. (☎35 211 036). One of several restaurants on the river offering dinner on land (dishes 100-300฿) or on a boat (groups of 8 or more, 1-2hr., 1000฿ per person). Open daily 11am-9pm.

Sights

Ayutthaya’s crumbling ruins span several dozen kilometers, so a grand tour will take several days. One place to start is Ayutthaya Historical Park, which holds Wihaan Phra Mongkhon Brophit and Wats Phra Si Sanphet, Mahathat, Phraram, Ratchaburana, and Phananchoeng. Biking is a good choice for this part of town, as the park has little traffic and a few dedicated bike paths. The Tourist Information Center has free maps that locate nearly every site and an exhibit showcasing the city on slick touch screens (exhibit closed W). Make the best of your time by renting a bicycle or motorbike, available at most guesthouses. Otherwise, tuk-tuk drivers will take you to the sights and wait while you visit them. The “official” price is 200฿ per hr. or around 700-900฿ per day, but try to bargain for about half that (especially if traveling alone). Most ruins are open until 6pm.

 Wat Chaiwatthanaram. This ancient royal monastery and cremation site, the most majestic and impressive of all the Ayutthayan ruins, spreads over riverside grounds west of the island of central Ayutthaya. A restored Khmer-style tower and chedi reflect the great wealth of King Prasat Thong, who built the wat in 1630. The 35m main stupa represents Mount Meru, the throne of the gods and center of the cosmos. The four mid-sized and eight smaller stupas surrounding it represent the rest of the universe. The wat is particularly beautiful at sunset and is lit up at night. Visitors can climb to the top of the central stupa for an excellent view of the surrounding ruins and the river but should remember that the walk down the steps is more precarious. (To reach Wat Chaiwatthanaram by bicycle, motorbike, or foot from the island, take the bridge from the west end of Ayutthaya Historical Park, following signs for Highway 3263 and Suphanburi. After crossing the bridge, the first road on the left leads to the wat. Open daily 8am-6pm. 30฿.)

 Wat Yai Chaiyamongkhon. Wat Yai Chaiyamongkhon is entirely different from most Ayutthaya ruins: this working temple lies on the manicured grounds of a partially restored 14th-century wat that has a magnificent giant chedi at its heart. Even better, unlike at many Ayutthaya wats, the Buddha statues here have their heads and hands, as well as glowing saffron sashes. A large reclining Buddha and a community of Buddhist nuns reside here, and the unique combination of ruin and restoration, historical site and living temple, makes Wat Yai, as it is known locally, well worth the trip from town. (Southeast of the island on the mainland. 20min. bicycle ride from the island or a 40฿ tuk-tuk ride. To reach the wat by bicycle from the island, cross Saphan Pridi Damrong, the bridge that leads to the train station, then continue straight until the intersection with Ayutthaya Pang Pa-In Rd. Turn right, and the temple is on the left. Open daily 8am-5pm. 20฿.)

Wat Phra Si San Phet. The charred ruins of three imposing chedis mark the old Ayutthaya’s largest temple, a royal monastery that once hosted Thailand’s most sacred rituals and ceremonies. The chedis, built in classic Ayutthaya style, once held royal remains, but now lie empty. (Open daily 7am-6pm. 30฿.)

Wihaan Phra Mongkhon Brophit. At 12.45m high and 9.5m wide, the 15th-century Buddha snuggled inside this wat is one of the largest bronze Buddhas in Thailand. The gleaming 1956 building that houses the statue offers a sharp visual contrast to the surrounding ruins and displays photos and blurbs that trace the process of the statue’s restoration. (Just south of Wat Phra Si Sanphet. Open M-F 8am-4:30pm, Sa-Su 8am-5:30pm. Free.)

Wat Mahathat. The grounds of Wat Mahathat hold Ayutthaya’s most photographed sight, a Buddha head artfully framed by twisting tree roots. You’ll have to fight through the crowd for a chance to get a picture, and the camera-toting crowds pay little attention to the rest of Wat Mahathat, a royal monastery that dates to 1374 and now lies in a state of ruin. A Khmer-style stupa remains, however, and excavations undertaken in the 1950s uncovered sacred relics hidden in a seven-layer reliquary. The artifacts now reside at the Chao Sam Phraya National Museum. A pleasant bike path snakes through the grounds behind this wat. (At the corner of Chikun and Naresuan Rd. Open daily 8am-6pm. 30฿.)

Wat Ratchaburana. A small crypt containing intact mural paintings sets Ratchaburana apart from its neighbors. Fifteenth-century King Chao Sam Phraya built the impressive ruins that surround the crypt on the site of an elephant-mounted duel in which both of his older brothers died, allowing him to ascend the throne. (North of Wat Mahathat. Open daily 8am-6pm. 30฿.)

Wat Phananchoeng. This wat houses a massive gold sitting Buddha. This statue, arguably the largest in Thailand, was created in 1324, before Ayutthaya became the Thai capital. Legend has it that tears formed in its eyes when the city was sacked by the Burmese in 1767. Today the temple is a place of pilgrimage for Thai visitors, who come on weekends to drape the statue in saffron cloth. (West of Yai Chaiyamongkhon, about 2km farther down the road. A ferry (10฿) from the southeast corner of the island, near Phet Fortress, docks near the wat and allows bicycles onboard. Open daily 8am-5pm. 20฿.)

Wat Phu Khao Thong. Rising from rice paddies northwest of Ayutthaya, the stark white prang at Wat Phu Khao Thong gleams thanks to restoration in the last decade. Its newly slick appearance, however, belies a turbulent history: a Burmese king built the pedestal to commemorate the sacking of Ayutthaya, but control of the area passed back to the Thais before construction was complete, and King Naresuan crowned the Burmese pedestal with a Thai chedi. Today, visitors can climb to the base of the chedi for a sweeping view of the island of Ayutthaya. (Leave the island on Ang Thong Rd. and make a left on Phu Khao Thong-Pariat Rd. The chedi is behind the massive King Naresuan the Great Monument. Open daily 9am-6pm. Free.)

Ayutthaya Historical Study Center.  One of the most high-tech museums in Thailand, this US$8 million research institute, funded by the Japanese government, features exhibits on the ancient city’s political, economic, and social history. Dazzling scale models of villages during the Ayutthaya period give insight into its daily life, and miniature reconstructions of Ayutthaya’s most famous wats complement the real-life ruins. In addition to the main building, a recent annex focuses on international trade and diplomacy in the ancient city. (On Rotchana Rd., 2 blocks east of the Chao Sam Phraya National Museum. Open M-F 9am-4:30pm, Sa-Su 9am-5pm. 100฿, with student ID 50฿.)

Other Sights. Just north of the island sits Wat Na Phra Meru, the only wat to survive the Burmese sacking unscathed. Highlights include the intricately-carved ceiling of its 16th-century bot and the largely intact defensive walls surrounding it. (Open 8am-5pm. 20฿.) A short bike ride north of the train station are the impressive Wat Maheyong, Wat Kudidao, and the smaller Wat Ayutthaya. All three are devoid of tourists and are free. North of the island is Elephant Kraal Pavilion, where the king used to watch his elephant army train. The Kraal now serves as a home for abused elephants, and it supports itself in part by making paper out of elephant dung and offering elephant tours of the city’s ruins. Visitors are welcome to the Kraal, but shouldn’t approach the elephants without talking to the staff first. The elephant tours depart from the northwest corner of the intersection of Pathon and Si Sanphet Rd., south of Wihaan Phra Mongkhom Brophit. (On Pathon Rd. south of Wihaan Phra Mongkhom Brophit. ☎35 321 982. Open daily 9am-5pm. Elephant tour 20 min. 400฿, 30 min. 500฿. Donations appreciated.) Ayutthaya is also the site of one of the country’s largest Loi Krathong festivals, which takes place in November during the full moon. Thais gather at Beung Phra Ram, the lake in the center of the island, to see fireworks, watch likay (Thai folk dance), and enjoy live music. The loi (floating) of krathong (lotus-shaped paper boats with candles and incense) takes place at Chantharkasem Pier opposite the Chantharkasem Palace Museum.

Entertainment And Nightlife

After a hard day of wat -hopping, treat yourself to a massage at the massage parlor next to Malakor, on Chikun Rd. (2hr. Thai massage 300฿. Foot massage 200฿ per hr. Open daily 10am-10pm.) From 7:30-9:30pm nightly, Wat Phra Si Sanphet, Wat Mahathat, Wat Ratchaburana, Wat Phraram, and Wat Chiawatthanaram are illuminated by floodlights. P.U. Inn and the Tourist Information Services offer night tours of these wats (7pm; 180฿). Entering the grounds of the wats alone after dark is illegal and dangerous. Farang nightlife in Ayutthaya centers around the guesthouses and is largely limited to laid-back pubbing. The popularity of the three or four pubs on a given night is largely dependent on what music each is playing, Moon Cafe (☎35 232 501, open nightly 4pm-1am) tends to have old rock ‘n roll standards and occasional live shows, while the guesthouse bars across the street have live, earnest singer-songwriters or jazz. Prices at each are fairly standard (large Singha 100฿, cocktails 150-200฿). Next door to and sportier than Moon Cafe, Tony’s Place often plays soccer games on TV. While usually busy, it tends to close early if the crowd begins to peter out.