Île D’Ouessant Overview

The westernmost point in metropolitan France, windswept Île d’Ouessant (eel dwess-ahn; Enez Eussa in Breton; pop. 950) is an island settlement of hardy Breton villagers and a peaceful refuge for hikers, cyclists, and nature lovers. Just an hour-long boat ride from the nearest point on the mainland, the island is a wide-open expanse of green and golden pasture, mysterious rock formations, blue-green waters, and grazing sheep and cattle. The island’s only town, Lampaul, is tucked away on the western side of the island.

Ferries: Penn-ar-Bed (☎02 98 80 80 80; www.viaoo29.fr). Runs from Brest (3hr.; at least 1 per day, more Apr.-Sept.). Also serves the islands of Molène and Sein. Reservations required at least a day in advance; reserve a week ahead July-Aug. Round-trip €33-34, ages 4-16 €18-20, ages 1-4 €2. 15% student discount. Boats dock at Port du Stiff, 3.5km from Lampaul.
Buses: Ouessant Voyages (☎06 81 04 31 04). Service from the port to the central church (5-10min.; €2, round-trip €3.50). Some companies also offer a 2hr. guided tour in French of the island; €12.
Bike Rental: 3 companies rent bikes for identical prices at the port and in Lampaul. 1-speed bikes €7 per ½-day, €10 per day, €37 per week; mountain bikes €10/14/50. Helmets available. Reserve in advance at the Brest tourist office to get a mountain bike for the price of a 1-speed bike.

Practical Information

Tourist Office: Near the church in the centre-ville (☎02 98 48 85 83; www.ot-ouessant.fr). Sells a pedestrian guide (€2.50). Map with bike-friendly roads. Open July-Aug. M-Sa 9am-7pm, Su 10am-noon; Sept.-June 10am-noon and 1:30-6pm, Su 10am-noon.
ATMs: At SPAR and 8 à Huit supermarkets (see Food, ).
Public Toilets: By the tourist office. Bring your own toilet paper.
Police: ☎02 98 48 81 61. Only operate on the island July-Aug.
Pharmacy: Down the hill from the church and around the corner to the left (☎02 98 48 81 59). Open M-Sa 9am-12:30pm and 5-7pm, Su 9am-12:30pm.
Post Office: To the left of the church and 30m downhill, across from the 8 à Huit (☎02 98 48 81 77). Currency exchange available. Open M and F 9am-noon and 2-5pm, Tu-Th 9am-noon and 2-4:30pm, Sa 9am-noon. Postal Code: 29242.

Accommodations And Camping

Auberge de Jeunesse d’Ouessant (☎02 98 48 84 53; ajouessant@club-internet.fr), 5min. from the centre-ville. Take the stairs to the right of the SPAR supermarket across from the church and turn right on the 1st road (not at the top of the stairs). Follow the road as it bears left; the hostel is ahead on the right. 43 beds, a communal kitchen, and a dining area. Breakfast included. Linen €4.10, students and under 26 €3.70. Reception 8am-noon; phone ahead for late arrival. Dorms €17, students and under 26 €15; demi-pension €29/26; pension complète €41/37; singles €30.
Le Fromveur (☎02 98 48 81 30; fax 48 85 97), in the centre-ville. Pastel rooms with TVs, showers, and toilets. TV and exercise room. Popular restaurant downstairs serves the local catch of the day ( menus €13-32). Breakfast included. Reception 8:30am-10pm. Open from Feb. to mid-Nov. Singles and doubles €40-56; quads €90-98. MC/V.
Camping Municipal (☎02 98 48 84 65), 2km from the port along the main road. Campground is on the left 300m before the church in Lampaul. The bus from the port stops here; ask the driver. A low stone wall separates the campground from the countryside’s rolling hills. Showers €1.65. Laundry €5.80. Reception July-Aug. 7am-11pm; Sept. and Apr.-June 9am-noon; hours vary, so call ahead. Night guard 11pm-7am. Open Apr.-Sept. €2.90 per person, under 7 €1.30; €2.90 per tent. Cash only.

Food

A SPAR supermarket is next to the tourist office (open M-Sa 8:30am-7:30pm, Su 9am-12:30pm), and a 8 à Huit supermarket lies just downhill. (Open July-Aug. M-Sa 8:30am-7:30pm, Su 9:30am-12:30pm; Sept.-June M and W-Sa 8:30am-7:30pm, Tu and Su 9:30am-12:30pm.) There is also a local grocery store, Le Marché des Îles, on the road to the bourg, 50m before the campground. (Open M-Sa 8:30am-8pm, Su 9am-1pm and 5-7pm.)

Crêperie Ti A Dreuz (☎02 98 48 83 01), just past the 8 à Huit on the left. Filling galettes and crêpes (€1.60-7.10), including some vegetarian options. Try their specialty, the Ouessantine (€6.70), filled with potatoes, cream, Emmental cheese, and savory silzig (Ouessant sausage). 2 sunny rooms with traditional decorations look over a garden. Open July-Aug. daily 11:30am-3:30pm and 7-11pm; Sept. and Apr.-June daily noon-2pm and 7-9pm; Oct.-Mar. Tu-Su noon-2pm and 7-9pm. MC/V.
Ty Korn (☎02 98 48 87 33), across from the church in Lampaul. Marine delights in a small room decorated like a ship deck. Fish and meat plats €15-20. Formules €13-18. Dinner menu €29. Open Tu-Sa noon-1:30pm and 7:30-9:30pm, Su 12:15-1:30pm. MC/V.

Sights And Festivals

In August, Ouessant hosts the Salon International du Livre Insulaire (☎06 81 51 12 87; www.livre-insulaire.fr), a literary conference with an island theme. Off the main road leading to the Pointe de Pern, side roads lead to Ouessant’s two museums. A joint ticket allows entry to both (€7, ages 8-14 €4.30).

Ecomusée And Maison Du Niou. The island’s culture and history museum displays a collection of local artifacts in a traditional, mid-19th-century ouessantine home. (1km northwest of Lampaul. ☎02 98 48 86 37. Open daily Apr.-Sept. 10:30am-6:30pm; Oct. and Jan. 1:30-5pm; Nov.-Dec. 1:30-4pm; from Feb. to mid-Mar. 10:30am-5:30pm; from mid-Mar. to Apr. 1:30-5:30pm. Printed guide in English available. Weekly tours in French in the summer. €3.50, ages 8-14 €2.20. Tours €0.90.)

Musée Des Phares Et Balises. Housed in the Phare du Créac’h, reputedly Europe’s most powerful lighthouse, this museum explores the history of maritime signaling. Models illustrate the evolution of lighthouses, but the most impressive artifacts are giant lighthouse lenses that send flashing signals across the museum’s interior. Behind the museum, pinnacles of stone stand against the crashing waves. A few wet paths that wind down towards the ocean offer a breathtaking seascape. (☎02 98 48 80 70. Open daily Apr.-Sept. 10:30am-6:30pm; Oct., Jan., Mar. 1:30-5:30pm; from Nov. to mid-Dec. 1:30-5pm; Feb. 10:30am-6pm. Last entry 30min. before close. Weekly guided tours in French. €4.30, ages 8-14 €2.80. Tours €1.20.)

Outdoor Activities

Biking is forbidden on footpaths and along the coast. Cyclists should stick to the relatively flat roads that lead to all major sights. The tourist office’s booklet of coastline hiking paths (€2.50) is helpful and includes details of all of the ruins and rocks along each of the four 1-3hr. coastline routes. If you only have time to choose one path, take the 12km (3hr.) northwest trail or the paved road (45min.) to the Pointe de Pern. Curious rock formations march into the sea toward a lighthouse standing alone in the water.