Île De Batz Overview

Fifteen minutes off the coast of Roscoff sits Île de Batz (eel duh bahtss; pop. 500, in summer 3500), a windswept sanctuary of natural beauty only 3.5km long and 1.5km wide. Small farms and cottages stand in acres of green grass dotted with duck ponds, while winding paths lead through the countryside and along an unspoiled coastline. The island’s many small beaches, said to have some of the finest sand in France, are perfect spots for a secluded dip.

Transportation And Practical Information. Three allied ferry companies—Armein (☎02 98 61 77 75), Armor Excursions (☎02 98 61 79 66), and CFTM (☎02 98 61 78 87)—connect Roscoff and Batz (10-15min.). Boats leave from Roscoff’s port at high tide and from the walkway at the harbor at low tide. (From late June to Aug. every 30min., last boat from island 7:30pm; from Sept. to late June 8-10 per day, last boat from island 6pm. Round-trip €7.50, ages 4-11 €4.) Circle the island or tour the Bay of Morlaix for a few more euro. (Tours July-Aug. 1hr. island circuit Su 3pm; €11, ages 4-11 €6. 2-5hr. Bay of Morlaix circuit daily 2:30pm; €13, under 18 €6.) There are a number of places to rent bikes on the island, including Vélos le Saoût, immediately off the ferry dock. (☎02 98 61 77 65. €3 per hr., €9 per ½-day, €10 per day. Hours depend on ferry schedules, but generally 9am-8pm.)

The island’s tiny tourist office is in the town hall from September to June, then moves to the port in July and August. To get to the town hall, turn left out of the port and follow signs. The staff provides a small but sufficient guide, complete with 2hr. walking tours, and a map. (☎02 98 61 75 70; www.iledebatz.com. Open July-Aug. M-F 10am-1pm and 2-5pm, Sa 9:30am-1pm; Sept.-June M-F 9am-noon and 1:30-4:30pm, Sa 10am-noon.) The Île de Batz post office, with currency exchange and fax services, is in the centre-ville; look for signs. (☎02 98 61 76 46. Open July-Aug. M-F 9am-noon and 1:30-4:30pm, Sa 9am-noon; Sept.-June M-F 9:30am-noon and 1:30-4pm, Sa 9:30am-noon.) Postal Code: 29253.

Accommodations And Camping. The cheapest bed for miles around can be found at Auberge de Jeunesse Marine (HI) . To reach the hostel from the port, take the uphill road to the left of the hotel. Signs mark the path to the hostel (5-10min.). Hidden at the top of a hill, the five-building complex has the rustic air of a private lodge and access to a secluded beach. (☎02 98 61 77 69; www.aj-iledebatz.org. Breakfast included. Linen €4. Reception daily July-Aug. 6:30-8:30pm; Sept.-Oct. and Apr.-June 6:30-7:30pm. Open Apr.-Oct. Dorms €15; cots €14; demi-pension €23; pension complète €32. Cash only.) The rooms at the chambres d’hôte Ty Va Zadou , overlooking the port, are filled with charming Breton hospitality. From the ferry, head left toward town. This stone house with light blue shutters sits atop a hill next to the church. A pleasant proprietress oversees homey, carefully color-coordinated rooms, all with bath. Vacationers reserve up to a year in advance, so plan ahead. (☎02 98 61 76 91. Breakfast included. Reception 9am-10pm. Open from Feb. to mid-Nov. Singles €40; doubles €60; 2-room family suite €80.) The grassy Terrain d’Hérbergement de Plein Air , an open field on the beach near the lighthouse, is the sole legal campground on the island, but it only allows tents. There’s no permanent reception—a dues collector will come by. (☎02 98 61 75 70. Open from mid-June to mid-Sept. €2.50 per person, children €1, €1.50 per tent. Cash only.)

Food. From the port, bear left and follow signs to the 8 à Huit supermarket, near the island’s highest point. (Open Tu-Sa 9am-12:30pm and 2:30-7:30pm, Su 10am-12:30pm.) Dining options on the island are rather limited, but a few restaurants and crêperies greet voyagers coming off the ferry at the port. With a terrace facing the sea, La Cassonade , in the centre-ville, serves generously sized pizzas (€7-14) in a relaxed atmosphere. (☎02 98 61 76 34. Open M-W and F-Sa 9am-8:30pm, Th 9am-noon, Su 9am-1pm. AmEx/MC/V.)

Sights And Hiking. The best way to see Île de Batz is to take the sentier côtier, 14km of easy-to-follow trails that line the coast, running past the rugged côte sauvage along small, sandy beaches, over massive rocks, and past inland lakes. The 4hr. hike is not difficult. Find the trails from any point on the island by taking the nearest road to the coast or by following signs from the port. The tourist office’s guidebook has maps for easy 2hr. hikes.

At the southeast tip of the island, signs lead to the tranquil   Jardin Georges Delaselle, a horticultural masterpiece featuring exotic plants from every continent except Antarctica. The garden is arranged around several different paysages (landscapes)—including a cactus garden, a palm grove, and the Nécropole, a grassy lawn dotted with Bronze Age tombs. (☎02 98 61 75 65. Open July-Aug daily 1-6:30pm; Sept.-Oct. and Apr.-June M and W-Su 2-6pm. 1hr. tours Su 3pm. 2hr. tours July-Aug. Tu 10am. €4.50, students and seniors €3.50, ages 10-16 €2, under 10 free. 1hr. tours €7; 2hr. tours €8.) For a great view of the island and Roscoff, climb the 198 steps of the lighthouse, which was built between 1832 and 1836 out of native granite. (Open daily July-Aug. 1-5:30pm; early Sept. and late June M-Tu and Th-Su 2-5pm; closed in poor weather. €2, under 18 €1.) Slightly inland, just before the garden, stand the ruins of the 12th-century Église Saint-Paul, renamed the Chapelle Sainte-Anne after the patron saint of the island’s sailors. During the Fête de Sainte-Anne, the year’s largest celebration, a parade proceeds from the town church to the chapel’s ruins, where an open-air mass is held before a huge bonfire on the dunes (last Sa in July).