Berchtesgaden National Park Overview

The paintings of Romantic artist Caspar David Friedrich have impressed the iconic image of the Watzmann peak upon every German’s mind. For centuries, the mountain—and the sparkling blue lakes and deep forests surrounding it—was dominated by herdsmen and shepherds. Soon artists, then tourists, flocked to these mountains, and the herdsmen became pension owners and guides. The park now hosts multitudes of weekend adventurers in addition to seasoned outdoor explorers, who are offered everything from mountain biking and hiking to skiing, rafting, bobsledding, and paragliding. The park accommodates the seemingly endless number of activities and trails through high alpine pastures and the forest areas designated to remain untouched by human hands.

Orientation

Berchtesgaden National Park is a German peninsula jutting into a sea of Austrian Alps. To the north, it borders the towns of Berchtesgaden, Ramsau, and Schönau. The park and its environs extend along three valleys. The fjord-like Königssee valley holds the ski-friendly Jenner and the notoriously challenging Kehlstein to the east. The mighty Watzmann, the highest peak in the park and second-highest in the country (2713m), sits along the valley’s western edge. According to legend, the cruel King Watzmann was turned into stone, and now looks down on Berchtesgaden with his wife and seven children—the Kleiner Watzmann and Watzmann Kinder peaks—by his side. On the far side of the Watzmann range is the Wimbach valley, overlooked by the Hochkalter on the west. The third valley contains the alpine Hintersee, starting above Ramsau and cutting its way through the Klausbach valley, where the only public bus in the park circulates. At the convergence of the three valleys in the south lie the Steinernes Meer massif and a number of Austrian peaks, with the Austrian town of Maria Alm in the valley on the south side of the peaks. The park’s major rivers, ideal for rafting, are the Königsseer Ache and the Ramsauer Ache, which combine at the city’s edge to form the Berchtesgadener Ache.

Transportation

Cars are not allowed into the park, with the exception of those bringing supplies to the many Alpenhütte (huts) scattered throughout. Several roads on the park’s outskirts lead to trailheads and nearby villages. The boat across the Königssee or the bus along the Klausbachtal are your best bet to penetrate the depths of the park. Good bases outside the park include Berchtesgaden, Ramsau, and Schönau. Berchtesgaden can be reached by bus and train, and offers bus connections to both Ramsau and Schönau. Once within the park, more than 200km of well-marked hiking trails extend along the reserve’s glacial-cut valleys and jagged moutain peaks. Some are navigable by mountain bike in the summer, others by touring skis in the winter. You can start a hike from just about anywhere—trails run from every town, crisscrossing each other. If arriving by car, the parking lot at the end of Königsseerstr. in Schönau (€3 per day, €2 with Kurkarte ) or one of the many smaller trailhead parking lots (€1-3 per day) are ideal starting points for hikes.

Practical Information

• Emergency: Police ☎110. Fire and ambulance ☎112. For a hiking accident, you can also call ☎08652 192 22. If you have hiked into Austria, call ☎144. To send a distress signal, repeat a loud noise or visual signal 6 times in 1min., followed by a 1min. pause, then repeat. The response is a signal 3 times per min. Official visual signals include flashing a red scarf or raising both arms above your head in a Y formation. Standing with 1 arm raised and the other at your side signifies that you do not need assistance.
• National Park Information Centers: While the main National Park info center in Berchtesgaden offers the best starting point for serious adventures, tourist offices in towns bordering the reserve are also well versed in the area’s geography and distribute free maps. In addition, unmanned information centers located at many of the trailheads throughout the park offer maps as well as exhibits on the park’s flora and fauna. Hikers will appreciate the green Berchtesgadener Alpen für Wanderer und Bergsteiger map (€6.50), which labels all hiking routes with numbers corresponding to signposts throughout the park, and shows the location of all of the Alpenhütte (alpine huts; see Accommodations ) and Gaststätte (restaurants). The free brochure   Berg und Tal, at the tourist office, offers extensive descriptions of hiking trails for every difficulty level including elevation maps, points of interest, and info about accommodations (in German).
• •  Nationalpark-Haus, Franziskanerpl. 7, Berchtesgaden (☎08652 643 43; www.nationalpark-berchtesgaden.de). From the main train station, turn right and follow the “Zum Markt” signs up the stairs, across the bridge, and up the small gravel path to Maximilianstr., which runs through Franziskanerpl. The info center is on the right overlooking the Bahnhof. A must for anyone interested in outdoor activities—the well-informed staff offers personalized recommendations on excursions into the park speckled with insider secrets and local knowledge. Check out the interactive exhibits, including a 3D map of the reserve and a panoramic picture of the park. Open daily 9am-5pm.
  • Deutscher Alpenverein (German Alpine Club), Maximilianstr. 1, Berchtesgaden (☎08652 22 07; www.DAV-Berchtesgaden.de). From the Nationalpark-Haus, turn right and follow the street for about 500m; look for the small, wooden building on the right at the edge of the Kurgarten. Exceptionally friendly mountain veterans offer advice on outings into the park and sell memberships that get you discounts on many of the Alpenhütte within the park. Open Tu and Th-F 3-5:30pm.
  • Hintersee, Hirschbichlstr. 26 (☎08657 14 31), at the foot of the Klausbach valley. Offers info on hiking trails and weather updates as well as rotating exhibits on wildlife and the forest ecosystem. Open daily 9am-5pm.
• Tours: The park service leads free Wanderführungen (guided nature hikes) in German throughout the year. Check the Wandern Sommerprogramm brochure at the Nationalpark-Haus for days, times, and meeting points. Tours in English sometimes available for groups of 7 or more for a fee; advance notice required.
• Fees and Reservations: Entrance to the park and all hikes are free. Camping within the park is forbidden, along with all forms of fire, including campfires and camp stoves. Reservations are helpful but usually not required for the Alpenhütte.
• Parking: Available in the lot at the end of Königsseerstr. in Schönau (€3 per day) and at trailheads throughout the park (around €2 per day; check map for locations).
• Gear: Sport M+R Brandner in Berchtesgaden or Ramsau. Both rent bikes and stock hiking boots and other equipment. Rent skis at the M+R Brandner, Intersport in Berchtesgaden, or the Ski School Berchtesgaden-Jenner (☎086 52 66 710). A listing of 15+ additional rental locations servicing all of the major ski areas is also available at the Berchtesgaden, Ramsau, or Schönau tourist offices (ask for the Winter activ brochure).
• Climate and Seasonality: During winter, the park sleeps under many feet of snow. In early summer it rains almost every day. Summer brings the warmest weather; average July temperature is around 16˚C (60˚F) and about 4˚C warmer in valleys. Autumn is also beautiful, with forests ablaze in color. For current weather information, call ☎08652 96 72 97 or check www.dwd.de.

Accommodations

The National Park is an easy day trip from the bordering towns. If you want to try longer routes or stay up in the high country, 21 Alpenhütte —simple cabins offering food and a bed for €10-20—are scattered throughout the park. These are the only authorized accommodations within the park boundaries and are usually open from the end of May until October. Don’t expect many comforts; you’ll be squished next to others on mattresses on the floor, or in a bed for more money. Sheets are an unreliable luxury—bring your own. The food is standard Bavarian Gaststätte (tavern) fare with plenty of meat and potatoes. Reservations are typically not necessary, although weekends in June, July, and September do get busy. If you’re staying more than five nights, the 50% discount that comes with membership to the German Alpine Club (€48; ages 19-25 €24; under 18 €15) might be worthwhile. Camping within the reserve is strictly forbidden. The free Berghütten und Almen brochure available at the Nationalpark-Haus has detailed information on all the huts in the park.

• Blaueishütte, 1685m (☎08657 271 or 546). Wood beams and breathtaking views on a rugged overlook on the north face of Hochkalter. 2-3hr. from Ramsau or Hintersee. 20 beds, 63 mattresses. Bed €20, mattress €15, under 18 €8. Open mid-May to mid-Oct.
• Carl-von-Stahl-Haus, 1734m (☎08652 27 52; www.carl-von-stahl-haus.com). Abutting the German-Austria border on the southern face of Hohes Brett, this cabin squeeze mattresses onto bunks rather than the floor. About 2hr. from the Hinterbrand parking lot. 24 beds, 70 mattresses. Bed €20, mattress €14, under 18 €8. Open year-round.
• Kärlingerhaus am Funtensee, 1633m (☎08652 609 1010; www.kaerlingerhaus.de). This simple cabin, located in a shaded valley above an alpine lake, offers the perfect place to repose after a long day of hiking. 48 beds, 182 mattresses. Bed €20, matress €15, under 18 €8. Open June to mid-Oct. Reservations recommended in summer.
• Wasseralm in der Röth, 1416m (☎08652 98 58 02). Perched atop a wide meadow above the Röthbach waterfall overlooking the Obersee, this hut offers very basic accommodations for the night. 3hr. from Salet, off the Königssee. 40 mattresses. €13, under 18 €8. Open year-round.
• Wimbachgrieshütte, 1327m (☎08657 344). Located high in the glacial valley to the south of Watzmann. 3hr. from Wimbachbrücke. 16 beds, 58 mattresses. Bed €20, mattress €15, under 18 €8. Open mid-May to mid-Oct.

Hiking

Literally thousands of hikes can be put together from the network of marked trails that snake through the park; the Nationalpark-Haus can help you plan a trip based on your preferences, time contraints, and level of fitness. Most trail signs give the length and an estimated time for each section. The dotted lines on maps are routes for experienced hikers only. Those planning a substantial hike might want to consider renting poles, available at Bergsport Geistaller, Griesstätterstr. 8 (☎08652 31 86) in Berchtesgaden. Poles are €2 per day, €13 per week. A few of the more popular, scenic hikes include:

• Watzmannhaus (15km, full day). The iconic Watzmann, the park’s most recognizable peak, was first conquered in 1799 and challenges trekkers with a strenuous hike and a spectacular view of the entire northern valley and the top. From Berchtesgaden, take bus #846 to “Wimbachbrücke” (20min., every hr. 7:30am-7:15pm; limited weekend service; €3), where there is an Information Center. Then follow signs through the parking lot and onto trail 441. Most hikers take 5-5½hr. to reach Watzmannhaus—the cow pasture is halfway up. The ascent to the peak is for experienced hikers only; the National Park helicopter has to fly out daily to this route to rescue hikers who overestimated their ability. Proper layered clothing (including a good rain jacket), robust hiking shoes, food, and plenty of water are essential for this ambitious hike. 1300m elevation gain.
• Blaueishütte (10km, 5-6hr. round-trip). Start from the “Pfeiffensmacherbrücke” parking lot in Ramsau, where there will be signs for the Blaueishütte. Then, turn left 20min. into the hike onto trail 482. This strenuous but manageable hike heads up the side of Mt. Hochkalter to the Blaueishütte, 1680m over Ramsau. The incline steepens as you approach the outcropping, but the view of the valley against the sheer rock edge is incredible. 820m elevation gain.
• Obersee (4km, 3-3½hr. round-trip, not including ferry). Take the ferry (1hr.) to Salet at the far end of the Königssee (see Königssee). Follow signs for the 15min. walk to the Obersee. From here, a flat, counterclockwise route leads, in under 1hr., along the shimmering lake to the Fischunkelalm, which dispenses milk and butter in summer. Another 30min. of hiking leads to the stunning Röthbach waterfall. On the return trip, overheated hikers splash in the refreshing Obersee. Be sure to check the departure time for the last ferry to avoid spending the night on the wrong end of the lake.
• Wimbachtal (17km; 4½-5hr. round-trip). Visitors looking for a more relaxed hike can enjoy this lengthy but mild route that winds along the western valley below Watzmann. Take bus #846 (see Watzmannhaus, above) to “Wimbachbrücke” and follow the signs to Wimbachklamm gorge to see the rock formations. Head up trail 421 and stroll along the Wimbach stream’s striking valley to Wimbachschloß, built in 1784, which serves refreshments in the summer. You can turn around at this halfway point, or continue to the Wimbachgrieshütte for striking views of the Hochkalter. 700m elevation gain.
• St. Bartholomä and Eiskapelle (6km; 2-3hr. round-trip, not including ferry). This short moderately challenging Königssee hike starts from the beautiful St. Bartholomä church, now a restaurant. After a visit to the National Park Information Center, follow signs past the St. Johann and Paul Chapel into the shadow of Watzmann to the gorgeous Eiskapelle (Ice Chapel), a dome formed at the front edge of the glacier by the river of melted snow running underneath. The trail’s location below the sheltered rock face keeps things cold; be sure to bring a jacket.
• Malerwinkel-Rundweg (3.5km, 1hr. round-trip). A short, easy, and accessible hike at the Königssee. The short loop to “Painter’s Outlook,” one of the best scenic points on the northern edge of the Königssee, then back through a wooded area that borders the lake. From the Königssee parking lot, follow Jennerbahnstr. to the lift station, and bear right onto the gravel path after the gondola statue, coming out by the Königssee Schifffahrt docks; return by following the main shopping street. 125m elevation gain.

Biking

Mountain bikes are permitted on a limited number of routes around the edges of the national park, although the rest of the Berchtesgaden area there contains plenty to keep cyclists busy. From long, paved routes winding their way into Salzburg to short, challenging climbs up the park’s formidable peaks, thoroughfares throughout the parkare always buzzing with bikers. Cycling maps trail guides, and the free brochure, Bike Berchtesgaden are available from the Berchtesgaden tourist office.

• “Radler” along the Klausbachtal. Easily one of the park’s most popular bike routes, this path leads bikes along the steep path in the Klausbachtal valley to Hirschbichl. Once there, bikers can turn around and enjoy the downhill journey back to the Hintersee or follow the trail east into Austria as it loops around the Reiter Alps following the Saalach river before heading back to the Taubensee along the base of the Lattengebirge. 20km round-trip along Hirschbichl, 55km with loop. 1½hr./4-5hr. riding time for each route respectively. Recommended for intermediate bikers. 868m elevation gain for both.
• “Rad und Kultur” from Berchtesgaden to Salzburg. A flat, paved loop that begins at the tourist office in Berchtesgaden before heading north along the Berchtesgadener Ache. The path continues along the river’s edge as it joins with the Salzbach before circling back through the center of Salzburg. A great ride for families. Cyclists can enjoy the calm beauty of the hills at the park’s northern edge before indulging in the bustle of Salzburg’s downtown pedestrian zone. 61.7km, 3-4hr. riding time. 165m elevation gain.
• “Echo” Berchtesgaden to Gotzenalm. Beginning at the tourist office, this route is a rugged mountain biker’s dream. The steep path leads up to the mid-way station of the Jennerbahn. From there, a relatively flat trek around the mountain before a leg-pumping, switchback-laden final climb up to Gotzenalm with a breathtaking view of the Königssee and Waltzmann to the west. 36.8km, 3-4hr. riding time. This challenging ride is for experienced cyclists only. 1200m elevation gain.

Other Outdoor Activities

Treff Aktiv, Jennerbahnstr. 19 (☎08652 667 10; www.treffaktiv.de), just below the Jennerbahn base station, offers various outdoor adventure trips, including rafting, paragliding, mountain bike tours, and canyoning, starting at around €30. They also offer ski weekends, climbing, bobsledding, rappelling, and guided hikes.To try out everything from rafting (from €39) to paragliding (from €180) to hot air ballooning from €155 for 4½hr.), contact the Berchtesgaden Outdoor Club (☎08652 977 60; www.outdoor-club.de), with 13 locations in the area. The Jenner, serviced by the Jennerbahn, is the largest ski slope around with several intermediate ski runs open in winter. (☎08652 958 10. Day pass €25, ages 6-15 €13.50.) The Berchtesgaden tourist office and most ticket counters also sell a five-day pass good for all eight ski areas in the region (only available with Kurkarte €110, ages 6-14 €60). For the Ski School Berchtesgaden-Jenner, call ☎08652 66 710. Ask at the tourist office in Berchtesgaden for a list of ski and snowboard schools in the area, most of which also rent equipment. You can also get a trip down the Kunsteisbahn bobsledding track with Rennbob-Taxi from mid-October to February for €85, including all insurance and a “Bobsled Diploma.” (☎08652 97 60 69; www.rennbob-taxi.de.)