Vienna Coffeehouses

For years these venerable establishments have been havens for artists, writers, and thinkers: Vienna’s cafes watched Franz Kafka brood about solitude, Theodor Herzl plan a Zionist Israel, and Freud ponder the human mind. The most important dictate of coffeehouse etiquette is that you linger; the waiter (Herr Ober) will serve you when you sit down, then will leave you to sip your Mélange (coffee and steamed milk), read, and contemplate life’s great questions. When you’re ready to leave, ask to pay (“Zahlen bitte”).

• Kleines Café, I, Franziskanerpl. 3. Escape from the busy pedestrian streets with a Mélange (€3) and conversation on a leather couch in the relaxed interior, or by the fountain in the square. Sandwiches €3-5. Croissants, apple (apfel) strudel, and curd strudel €0.90. Eggs €7. Open daily 10am-2am. Cash only.
• Café Central, I, Herreng. 14 (☎01 533 37 63; www.palaisevents.at), at the corner of Strauchg. With green-gold arches and live music, this luxurious coffeehouse deserves its status as mecca of the cafe world. House specialty: coffee with apricot liqueur (€5.90). Open M-Th and Sa 7:30am-10pm, F and Su 10am-10pm. AmEx/MC/V.
• Café Hawelka, I, Dorotheerg. 6 (☎01 512 82 30). A Viennese institution since 1939, this cafe has a long history as an artist’s meeting place. The waiters move quickly between the tables and sofas, carrying plates of Buchteln (cake with plum marmalade; €3) and mélange (€3.20). Locals don’t need menus to order, so come with an idea of what you want in mind. Open M and W-Sa 8am-2am, Su 10am-2am. Cash only.
• Demel, I, Kohlmarkt 14 (☎01 535 17 17; www.demel.at). 5min. from the Stephansdom, down Graben. Founded in 1786 and the most lavish konditorei (confectioner) in Vienna, Demel once served its creations to the imperial court. The chocolate is made fresh every morning, and the desserts are legendary. Mélange €3.90. Tortes €4. Appetizers and entrees €5-18. Open daily 11am-6pm. AmEx/MC/V.
• Café Sperl, VI, Gumpendorferstr. 11. (☎01 586 41 58; www.cafesperl.at, www.sperltorte.at). U2: Museumsquartier. Marble tables and crystal chandeliers adorn one of Vienna’s oldest, most elegant cafes. Sept.-June Su live piano 3:30-5:30pm. Open Sept.-June M-Sa 7am-11pm, Su 11am-8pm; July-Aug. M-Sa 7am-11pm. AmEx/MC/V.
• Café Sacher, I, Philharmonikerstr. 4 (☎01 512 14 87), behind the opera house. This historic site serves the original world-famous Sacher Torte (€4.90), a delectable chocolate cake with a hint of marmalade. Each year, 360,000 of these tortes are served in Austria. Cafe open daily 8am-11:30pm. Bakery open daily 9am-11:30pm. AmEx/MC/V.