Copenhagen (København) Sights

Flat Copenhagen lends itself to exploration by bike. Walking tours are detailed in Playtime (available at Use It, ). Window-shop down pedestrian Strøget until you reach Kongens Nytorv; opposite is the picturesque Nyhavn, where T Hans Christian Andersen penned his first fairy tale. On a clear day, take the 6.4km walk along the five lakes on the western border of the city center or grab a bike and ride. Relax in the city hall square and listen to the street music as you enjoy an ice cream treat or a hot dog from local vendors. Most museums are free and some have extended hours on Wednesdays.

City Center.   Tivoli Gardens, the famed 19th century amusement park, features newly-built rides, an aquarium, concert hall, and theatre. Located across the street from Central Station. Tivoli Illuminations, an evocative light show, is staged on Tivoli Lake each night 30min. before closing. (Vesterbrogade 3 ☎3315 1001; www.tivoligardens.com. Open mid-Sept. to mid-Apr. M-Th and Su 11am-10pm, F 11am-12:30am, Sa 11am-midnight; mid-Aug. to mid-Sept. M-Th and Su 11am-midnight, F-Sa 11am-12:30am. Admission 85kr. Rides 10-60kr. Admission with unlimited rides 285kr. AmEx/MC/V.) From Tivoli, cross Tietgensgade to find Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, home to ancient art from the 19th and 20th centuries. Also features a beautiful greenhouse garden. Tickets for free guided tours go quickly. (Dantes Pl. 7. ☎3341 8141; www.glyptoteket.dk. Open Tu-Su 10am-4pm. 50kr, students and children free. Su free. Wheelchair-accessible. Tours mid-June to Aug. W 2pm. MC/V.) Across H.C. Andersens Bvd., aquaint yourself with the latest trends from furniture to model cars at the Danish Design Center, which displays exhibitions of Danish and international design. The Flow Market Exhibition downstairs, encourages consumers to think with sustainable growth in mind, selling items such as “inner calmness” and “clean air.” (H.C. Andersens Bvd. 27. ☎3369 3369; www.ddc.dk. Open M-Tu and Th-F 10am-5pm, W 10am-9pm, Sa-Su 11am-4pm. 50kr, seniors, youth ages 12-18 and students 25kr. W after 5pm free. AmEx/MC/V.) The   National Museum’s vast collections include several large rune stones, ancient Viking art, and the ethnographic exhibit, “People of the Earth.” To reach the National Museum from H.C. Andersens Bvd., turn onto Stormg., take a right on Vester Volf., and go left on Ny Vesterg. (Ny Vesterg. 10. ☎3313 4411. www.natmus.dk. Open Tu-Su 10am-5pm. Free. 1 hr. guided tours at noon, 1, 2pm on Sa, Sun, and holidays.)

The home of Parliament (Folketing) and the royal reception rooms, Christiansborg Slot displays vivid modernist tapestries that were designed by Bjørn Nørgård and presented to the Queen on her 50th birthday. Visitors can tour the subterranean ruins underneath the Slot. (Longangstraede 21. ☎3392 6300; www.ses.dk/christrainsborg. Ruins open daily May-Sept. 10am-4pm; Oct.-Apr. Tu-Su 10am-4pm. Ruins 40kr, students 30kr. Guided Castle tour daily Tu-Su at 11:30am and 1:30pm. Adults 65kr, students 55kr.) Overlook the greater Copenhagen area from atop the impressive Round Tower (Rundetaarn). Today, anyone can view the night sky through the astronomical telescope during the winter months. (Købmagerg. 52A. ☎3373 0373; www.rundetaarn.dk. Open daily May 20-Sept. 21. 10am-8pm, Sept. 21-May 20 10am-5pm. Observatory open mid-Oct.-mid-Mar. Tu, W 7-10pm. 25kr. AmEx/MC/V.)

Christianshavn. In 1971, a few dozen flower children established the “free city” of Christiania in an abandoned Christianshavn fort. Today, the thousand-odd residents continue the tradition of artistic expression and an alternative lifestyle. Buildings surrounded by gorgeous bushes and flowerbeds are covered in ornate graffiti and murals. Vendors sell clothing and jewelry; nearby spots like Woodstock Cafe and Cafe Nemoland offer cheap beer and diverse crowds. Recent government crackdowns have driven Pusher Street’s once open drug trade underground, and arrests for possession have become commonplace. It’s a sensitive subject so don’t ask; let local people do the talking. Careful: do not take pictures on Pusher Street. (Main entrance on Prinsesseg. Take bus #66 or 2A (runs every 5min.) from København H.) Vor Frelsers Kirke (Our Savior’s Church), who has recently reopened its gold-accented interior to the public, is great for a quieter time. (Sankt Annæg. 9. M: Christianshavn or bus #66. Turn left onto Prinsesseg. ☎3257 2798; www.vorfrelserskirke.dk. Spire ☎3254 1573. Church free. Spire 20kr. Cash only.)

Frederikstaden. Northeast of the city center, Edvard Eriksen’s tiny Little Mermaid (Lille Havfrue) statue honors Hans Christian Andersen’s beloved tale. (S-tog: Østerport. Turn left out of the station, go left on Folke Bernadottes Allé, bear right on the path bordering the canal, go left up the stairs, and then head right along the street.) Head back along the canal and turn left across the moat to reach Kastellet, a rampart-enclosed 17th-century fortress that’s now a park. (Center of Churchill Park. ☎3311 2233. Open daily 6am-10pm.) On the other side of Kastellet, the Frihedsmuseet (Museum of Danish Resistance) documents the German occupation from 1940-45, when the Danes helped over 7000 Jews escape to Sweden. (At Churchillparken. ☎3313 7714. Open May-Sept. Tu-Su 10am-5pm; Oct.-Apr. Tu-Su 10am-3pm. English-language tours July-Sept. Tu and Th 11am. Free.) Walk south down Amalieng. to reach Amalienborg Palace, a complex of four enormous mansions that serve as the winter residences of the royal family. Several apartments are open to the public, including the studies of 19th-century Danish kings. The changing of the guard takes place at noon on the vast plaza. (☎3312 0808; www.rosenborgslot.dk. Open May-Oct. daily 10am-4pm; Nov.-Apr. Tu-Su 11am-4pm. 50kr, students 30kr. Combined ticket with Rosenborg Slot 80kr. MC/V.)

The State Museum of Fine Arts displays an eclectic collection of Danish and international art between its two buildings, which are linked by an impressive glass-roof gallery. (Sølvg. 48-50. S-tog: Nørreport. Walk up Øster Voldg or take bus 6A ☎3374 8494; www.smk.dk. Open Tu and Th-Su 10am-5pm, W 10am-8pm. English-language tours July-Aug. Sa-Su 2pm. Permanent collection free. Special exhibits 80kr, students 50kr. W free. AmEx/MC/V.) Opposite the museum, the Baroque Rosenborg Slot built by King Christian IV in the 17th century as a summer residence, shows off the crown jewels and the opulent Unicorn Throne, which legend holds is constructed from unicorn horns. (Øster Voldg. 4A. M: Nørreport. ☎3315 3286; www.rosenborgslot.dk. Open daily June-Aug. 11am-5pm; May and Sept. 10am-4pm; Oct. daily 11am-3pm; Nov.-Apr. Tu-Su 11am-2pm. 50kr, students 40kr. AmEx/MC/V.) About 13,000 plant species thrive in the beautiful gardens of   Botanisk Have. Tropical and subtropical plants mingle happily in the iron-and-glass Palm House. (Øster Farimagsgade 2B. ☎3532 2221 botanik.snm.ku.dk/english. Gardens open daily May-Sept. 8:30am-6pm; Oct.-Apr. daily Tu-Su 8:30am-4pm. Palm House open daily May-Dec. 10am-3pm; Jan.-Apr. daily Tu-Su 10am-3pm. Free.)