Teenaged hipsters strut down the narrow streets in Blois (blwah; pop. 51,000), a town that showcases centuries worth of French architectural styles. A former medieval capital, Blois was home to Kings François I and Louis XIII and served as the site from which Joan of Arc gathered the army that would liberate Orléans. Today, Blois is a base for visits to Chambord and Cheverny—two of the Loire Valley’s most famous châteaux; each is a short bike or bus trip away.
The château and centre-ville are 5min. from the train station, left down avenue Jean Laigret. Between the château and rue Denis Papin is a bustling pedestrian quarter. When in doubt, descend: all roads lead to the river and town center.
Traditional blésois restaurants line rue Saint-Lubin and place Poids du Roi, while relatively inexpensive Chinese, Italian, and Greek restaurants surround the lively place de la Résistance. An Intermarché supermarket is at 16 av. Gambetta (open M-Sa 9am-7pm) and a 8 à Huit is at 11 rue du Commerce (open M-Sa 8am-8pm and Su 8am-noon). Behind Église St-Nicolas, place Louis XII bustles with an open-air food and clothing market. (Open Sa 8am-1pm.)
Château De Blois. Called a “panorama of French architecture” because of the four periods that influenced its construction (Gothic, Renaissance, 16th century, and Classical), the château is the pride of Blois. Home to Louis XII and François I, Blois’s château was as prominent in the 15th and early 16th centuries as Versailles became in later years. The motto of François I, “Nutrisco et extingo” (“I feed on fire and I extinguish it”), explains carved and painted fire-breathing salamanders, an icon found throughout the entire Loire Valley. As for the porcupines, they were the trademark of Louis XII, who embodied the French saying “Qui s’y frotte, s’y pique” (“Those who bother him will suffer the consequences”). The newest wing, part of the château’s third major expansion, is a monument to French Classicism. It now houses two museums: the recently renovated Musée des Beaux-Arts, featuring a gallery of 16th- to 19th-century paintings, and the Musée Lapidaire, exhibiting sculpted rock pieces taken from nearby 16th- and 17th-century châteaux. Don’t miss the four secret cabinets in the royal study, where Alexandre Dumas told Catherine de Medici to store her numerous poisons. Finally, you may want to take the 25min. carriage tour of the city, which departs from the château entrance. (☎02 54 90 33 33; www.ville-blois.fr. Open daily July-Aug. 9am-7pm; Apr.-June and Sept. 9am-6:30pm; Oct.-Mar. 9am-noon and 2-5:30pm. Ticket booth closes 30min. before château. Admission to château and museums €7.50, students under 25 €5, under 17 €3. Historical French tours depart from courtyard May-Sept. every hr.; call ahead to request 20min. English presentation in courtyard. Free with admission. Carriage tours daily July-Aug. 11am-7pm; Sept.-June 2:30-6:30pm. €6, under 12 €4. Light show daily June-July 10:30pm, Aug.-Sept. and from mid-Apr. to late May 10pm. €7, students €5, under 17 €3. English show W. Ticket to château and light show €11.50, students €8.50, under 18 €5.50. Ticket to château and Maison de la Magie €13/8.50/5.50. Ticket for all 3 attractions €17/11/9. MC/V.)
Musée De La Résistance, De La Déportation, Et De La Libération. This museum is a powerful memorial to local French Holocaust victims and the city of Blois during WWII. The stories alone—including those about the US pilot who nearly crashed into the Château of Chambord and the circus elephants that were used to pull down crumbling houses in the town center—make it worth the visit. The museum is staffed by WWII veterans and Resistance members, who give excellent tours. (1 pl. de la Grève. ☎02 54 56 07 02. Open M-F 9am-noon and 2-6pm, Sa 2-6pm. €3, students and under 18 €1. For guides in English, call ahead. Translations of tours available.)
Maison De La Magie. Beside the château, this museum entertains with mildly amusing films, optical illusions, and displays dedicated to famous blésois magician Robert Houdin (Houdini’s stage name was a tribute to him). The hallucinoscope, a large optical illusion device, is the most popular attraction. The spectacle (magic show), performed three to four times a day, provides lighthearted entertainment—especially for children. (1 pl du Château. ☎02 54 90 33 33; www.maisondelamagie.fr. Open July-Aug. daily 10am-12:30pm and 2-6:30pm; Apr.-June and Sept. Tu-Su 10am-12:30pm and 2-6pm. Free guided tours with reservation. 1hr. shows July 20-Aug. 20 11:15am, 2:45, 4, 5:15pm; Aug. 20-July 2011:15am, 3:15, 5:15pm. €7.50, students under 25 €6.50, ages 6-17 €5, under 6 free.)
Vieille Ville. The most relaxing and authentic Blois attractions may be its hilly streets and ancient staircases. Bars and bakeries on rue Saint-Lubin and rue des Trois Marchands tempt those en route to the 12th-century Abbaye Saint-Laumer, now the Église Saint-Nicolas. (Open daily 9am-6:30pm. Mass Su 9:30am.) The winding streets east of rue Denis Papin are especially beautiful. Meanwhile, 500 years of expansions have endowed Cathédrale Saint-Louis —one of Blois’s architectural jewels—with a beautiful mix of architectural styles. (Open daily 7:30am-6:30pm. Crypt open June-Aug.) A spectacular view from the Jardin de l’Evêché, behind the cathedral, reaches over the rooftops of the old quarter, stretching along the brilliant Loire. On your way down, rest at the top of the Denis Papin stairs and watch the city unfold into the distance.
Nightlife in Blois may be somewhat toned down, but there is a decent variety of places to finish the night off right. Not too far from the center of the action, rue de Foulerie has its own set of less touristy restaurants and bars, whose crowds spill into the street in the summer .
Transports Loir-et-Cher (TLC) buses, outside the Blois train station, run a châteaux circuit to Chambord and Cheverny (5hr. with 2hr. for each castle, €9.20). For those who prefer to go at their own pace, the châteaux are within relatively easy biking distance through spectacular views of forests and wheat fields. From Blois, it’s 18km to Chaumont, 15km to Cheverny, and 10km to Beauregard. Green signposts along the roads mark the châteaux and towns. Cyclists should stay off major highways whenever possible. The tourist office branch across from the Château de Blois distributes maps of safe and efficient routes. The Regional Tourism Committee (☎02 54 78 62 52; www.loire-valley-travel.com) offers one-week cycling packages and walking tours of the Loire Valley.
To bike or drive to the château, head across the Loire on Pont Gabriel and continue straight on av. Wilson. For a long (16-20km) but scenic route, veer toward Chailles when the road splits to Chambord and Chailles. 4km down, turn toward Celletes. Follow signs to Château Troussay and then Cheverny. Alternatively, take D765 south for 12km. Château ☎02 54 79 96 29; www.chateau-cheverny.fr. Open daily July-Aug. 9:15am-6:45pm; Apr.-June and Sept. 9:15am-6:15pm; Oct. 9:30am-5:30pm; Jan.-Mar. and Nov.-Dec. 9:45am-5pm. €7, students €6. Call for guided tours in English, German, and Spanish. The same bus that leaves from the SNCF station to Chambord continues to Cheverny (€9.20).
Ever since its completion in 1634, Cheverny (shay-vayr-nee) has been privately owned by the Hurault family, whose members have served as financiers and officers to the kings of France. The marquis, his wife, and their three children currently live in the castle, which in 1922 became one of the first privately owned châteaux to open its doors to visitors. Murals, armor, and elegant tapestries recounting romantic stories cover every inch of wallspace in the luxurious Chambre du Roi. In the dining room, a series of paintings by Jean Monier recreates the story of Don Quixote. The portrait of Jeanne d’Aragon in the salon is attributable to the world-famous Renaissance painter Raphael. Fans of Hergé’s Tintin books may recognize Cheverny’s Renaissance facade as the inspiration for the design of Captain Haddock’s mansion, Moulinsart. A gallery of Hergé’s art and comics is adjacent to the château’s souvenir shop. As well known as the château itself, Cheverny’s kennels are home to 120 English-Poitevin hounds still used in hunting expeditions. The repas de la meurte de chiens offers a unique opportunity to see these hounds gulp down their chicken and duck dinner at their master’s command in less than 60 seconds. (Open from Apr. to mid-Sept. M-F 5pm.) Next to the kennels, in the trophy room, thousands of antlers surround a striking stained-glass window depicting the hunt.
Luxurious—and expensive— Camping Les Saules is located 2km south on the road to Contres. Swimming pool and bike rental are onsite, with an 18-hole golf course nearby. (☎02 54 79 90 01; www.camping-cheverny.com. Open daily Apr.-Oct. 8:30am-8:30pm. €16-26 per site, depending on the season; includes 2 people, 1 car, tent, or caravan. €4.50 per extra person, ages 4-10 €2.)
Take the TLC bus just left of the Blois SNCF station (45min.; May-Sept. 9:10, 11:10am, 1:42pm; €11.20, students €9) or bike 2hr. To bike or drive, cross the Loire and ride 1km on av. Wilson. At the roundabout, go straight until St-Gervais-la-Forêt, then turn left onto D33. Château ☎02 54 50 40 00; www.chambord.org. Open daily from mid-July to mid-Aug. 9am-7:30pm; from Apr. to mid-July and from mid-Aug. to Sept. 9am-6:15pm; Oct.-Mar. 9am-5:15pm. Last entry 30min. before closing. July-Aug. €9.50, ages 18-25 €6.50, under 17 free; Sept.-June €8.50. €2 discount with bus ticket. MC/V.
Built by François I between 1519 and 1545 as a hunting lodge and party house, Chambord (shahm-bohr) is perhaps the largest and most extravagant of the Loire châteaux. A testament to the monarch’s desire to flaunt his growing power, the castle could accommodate his entire court—up to 10,000 people. With 426 rooms, 365 chimneys, 282 fireplaces, and 77 staircases, the castle is a surprising synthesis of forms inherited from past centuries and innovations from Renaissance Italy. The Greek-cross floor design used for the keep (the main tower) was formerly reserved for sacred buildings, but 25-year-old François co-opted it in his quest for self-deification. In the center of the castle, he built a spectacular double-helix staircase, the design of which is attributed to Leonardo da Vinci. The staircase’s hollow, high interior mimics cathedral architecture. The chapel in the château’s right wing is echoed in François’s bedroom in the left. Apparently the king insisted on being worshipped—even in bed.
The ornamentation of Chambord represents the first Italian Renaissance influence on French architecture. François stamped Chambord with 200 of his trademark stone salamanders, commissioned 14m tapestries of his hunting conquests, splayed his initials across the large stone chimneys on the rooftop terrace, and scattered the royal fleurs de lys liberally throughout the chambers. Despite the effort, François graced Chambord with his presence for only 72 days, dying before his fantastic dream was completed. In the 17th century, a new wing was built for Louis XIV. Busts of Molière and Lully—who performed in the castle in 1669—adorn his room’s antechamber. Rooms are labeled in English, but more detailed explanations of the château are available through an audio tour (€5) in many languages. Also available are 30min. historical presentations, guided tours (€5, students €4), and French tours (€6.50) of the castle as well as a variety of guided excursions into the surrounding forest.
There’s an ATM next to the snack shops outside the tourist office. To explore surrounding forests, rent a boat or bike through Traineur de Loire near the château. The boat tour around the castle (€8.50, students €6.50; with castle entrance €14/13) affords a panoramic view of the château. (☎02 54 33 37 54. 2-person boats €14 per hr., 3-person €15 per hr., 4-to 5-person €16 per hr. Bikes €6 per hr., €12 per ½-day, €15 per day. Tandem €13 per hr. €14 for 15min. boat ride and bottle of wine. Open daily July-Aug. 10am-7:30pm; Sept.-Oct. and Apr.-June 10am-6pm. MC/V.) Medieval shows take place on castle grounds in summer. (☎02 54 20 31 01. July-Aug. daily 11:45am, 4:30pm. €9, under 18 €7). Campers can trek to Huisseau-sur-Cosson , 6 rue de Châtillon, 5km southwest of Chambord on D33. (☎02 54 20 35 26. Open May-Sept. daily 9am-noon and 3-8pm. €4 per person, under 7 €3; €3.50 per tent. Electricity €3.)
Chaumont is accessible by a 1hr. bike ride or 20min. car ride from Blois (16km on N152, dir.: Tours). By bike, make a right after crossing Pont Gabriel and follow D751 to Chaumont. Tourist office directions may suggest you take N152, but it is a large highway. The train that goes from Blois to Tours also runs through Onzain (10min.; M-F 10 per day, Sa-Su 9 per day; €4). From there, it’s a 15min. walk to the castle. From the station, head toward the Auberge du Moulin, cross the bridge, and turn right. The Chaumont tourist office, 24 rue Maréchal Leclerc (☎02 54 20 91 73), across the bridge from N152, rents bikes (€8-10 per ½-day, €15per day). Open W-F 9:30am-7pm, Su 9:30am-1pm and 1:30-6pm. Château ☎02 54 51 26 26; www.domaine-chaumont.fr. Open daily from early May to mid-Sept. 9:30am-6:30pm; late Sept. and from Apr. to early May 10am-6pm; Oct.-Mar. 10am-12:30pm and 1:30-5pm. Last entrance 30min. before closing. Wheelchair-accessible. €7.50, students €5.30, under 12 free.
Built on a precipice, Chaumont (shoh-mohn) peeks out from a shield of pines as though painted into the sky. Originally built in the 10th century by the comte de Blois to protect his territories from his rival, the comte d’Anjou, the castle stands strikingly—and strategically—overlooking the Loire. The marriage of Denise de Fougères to Sulpice d’Amboise delivered Chaumont into the Amboise family’s hands. Following Henri II’s death in 1559, his widow Catherine de Medici bought the castle in revenge against Diane de Poitiers, Henri’s mistress, who resided in the nearby Château of Chenonceau—a royal architectural jewel that Catherine had coveted for years. She then forced Diane to move from Chenonceau to Chaumont. While Chaumont is not the most lavish of the Loire châteaux, it is one of the most creatively decorated, with intricate designs on the tile floor and paneled ceilings. Throughout the visit, the history of the castle unfolds, ending with a billiard and sitting room furnished in the style of the 1920s. The grounds and gardens of Chaumont are spectacular, as is the view of the Loire Valley. Gardeners from around the world also compete annually in Chaumont’s international garden festival. The festival is a favorite with children. (☎02 54 20 99 22; www.chaumont-jardins.com. Festival open daily from May to mid-Oct. 9:30am-dusk. Gardens €9, students €6.50, ages 6-18 €3.50. Festival and château €15.Ticket booth closes at 7pm.)
A 1hr., 10km bike ride from Blois. Follow directions to Cheverny, but take a left off D765. A taxi from Blois costs €18. Château ☎02 54 70 40 05. For English assistance, call ☎02 54 70 36 74. Open July-Aug. daily 9:30am-6:30pm; Sept. and Apr.-June daily 9:30am-noon and 2-6pm; Oct.-Nov., from mid-Dec. to early Jan., and from early Feb. to Mar. M-Tu and Th-Su 9:30am-noon and 2-5pm. €6.50, students and ages 7-18 €4.50, under 8 free. Gardens €4.50. Tours are available every hr. in French. Information sheets available in multiple languages.
Before François I unleashed his fantasies on Chambord, he designed Beauregard (boh-ruh-gahr) as a hunting lodge 10km south of Blois for his uncle René, nicknamed the Bastard of Savoie. Though the château belonged to nobility, it is cozier than its flashy cousin and is nestled in a sea of wheat fields, sheltered by cool pines. The portrait gallery, which was commissioned by Paul Ardier, treasurer to Louis XIII, is the world’s largest. Today, this collection of 327 wall-to-wall paintings, called the Galerie des Illustres, is a who’s who of European powers—including the likes of Philippe de Valois, Louis XIII, Elizabeth I, and Christopher Columbus. Though unfurnished, the Cabinet des Grelots (Chamber of Bells), in the south wing, is covered with remarkable oak paneling, skillfully carved by Jean du Thier, who also worked for Diane de Poitiers. Added in 1996, Le Jardin Des Portraits, behind the château, is a classic French garden, with floral sections arranged by color. To the right of the château are the preserved glacières, caves that were once used to collect ice in winter in order to serve cold beverages and sorbets in summer at the request of Catherine de Medici.
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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