Copenhagen (København) Bornholm

Residents of the island of Bornholm—which literally translates to “sunny island”—like to say that when Scandinavia was created, God saved the best piece for last and placed it in the Baltic Sea. Most locals say that after a day or two on the breathtaking island, you will agree. The undulating farmlands of the south are ideal for bikers, while nature lovers will favor the dramatic, rocky landscape of the north. The central forest is one of the largest in Denmark, and the sandiest beaches are at Dueodde, on the island’s southern tip. Plan ahead to spend the night when traveling—train and ferry schedules can easily conflict with otherwise carefully planned exploration.

Transportation. The best way to get to Bornholm from Copenhagen is by a bus and ferry combination. Bornholmerbussen #866 leaves from København H for Ystad, SWE, where passengers can transfer to the ferry. (☎4468 4400; 3hr., 3 per day, 225kr.) A train and ferry combo runs from Copenhagen to Rønne by way of Ystad. (Train ☎7013 1415; www.dsb.dk; 2hr., 2-3per day. Ferry ☎5695 1866; www.bornholmferries.dk; 80min. Combination 200-251kr.) A discount “red ticket” (224kr, low season 150kr) for the ferry is available online a week in advance, but the combo ticket is cheaper for travelers coming from Copenhagen. Overnight ferries from Køge (S-tog: A+, E, Ex), south of Copenhagen, leave at 11:30pm and arrive in Rønne at 6:30am (244kr, 281kr for a bed).

Bornholm has an efficient BAT local bus service; buses run less frequently on weekends. (☎5695 2121. 36-45kr, bikes 22kr; 24hr. pass 140kr.) Bus #1A/B makes a circuit of the coastline, heading from Rønne to Hammershus and stopping at most of the island’s towns and attractions along the way. Bus #3 from Rønne passes by Østerlars Church on its way to Gudhejm, where the ferry departs for Christiansø, a small island to the north of Bornholm. There are well-marked bike paths between all the major towns; pick up a guide (40kr) at Rønne’s tourist office. The ride from Rønne to either Sandvig in the north or Dueodde in the southeast is about 30km. Day passes are sold for 140kr. The airport also has flights for 100kr; check www.BAT.dk for more info.

Rønne. Rønne (pop. 14,000), on Bornholm’s southwestern coast, is the principal port of entry to the island. Rønne Vandrerhjem (HI) , Arsenalv. 12, is an area hostel located in a peaceful, wooded area. From the ferry, head toward the tourist office and turn right on Munch Petersens V. Stay left and onto Snellmark. Walk through the town and turn right on Sondre Alle. Pass the roundabout and Arsenalv. is 100m up on the right. (☎5695 1340; www.danhostel-roenne.dk. Breakfast 45kr. Linens 50kr. Laundry 80kr. Reception 8am-noon and 4-5pm. Open Apr.-Oct. Dorms 150kr; singles 300kr; doubles 400kr. 35kr HI discount. Cash only.) Galløkken Camping , Strandvejen 4, is 15min. south of the town center, near the beach. Follow directions to the hostel, but continue down Søndre Allé until it becomes Strandvejen; the campground is on the right. It’s surrounded by beautiful woods with good walking trails. Small tents can camp for free July 28-Aug. 10. (☎5695 2320; www.gallokken.dk. Bike rental 66kr per day, 295kr/week. Reception 8am-noon and 5-7pm. Open May-Aug. 64kr per tent site. Electricity 25kr. Camping Card required; available for purchase at reception. 90 kr. MC/V; 5% surcharge.) Sam’s Corner , St. Torv 2, is a basic but popular burger and pizza joint with low prices (45-75kr) and large portions. (☎5695 1523. Open daily in summer 10am-10pm; in winter 10am-9pm. Cash only.) Get groceries at Kvickly, opposite the tourist office. (☎5694 8400. Open M-F 9am-8pm, Sa 9am-5pm, Su 10am-4pm. Cash only.) The tourist office is at Ndr. Kystv. 3. Turn right out of the ferry terminal, pass the BAT bus terminal, and cross toward the gas station; look for the giant sign. (☎5695 9500; www.bornholm.info. Open July-Aug. 9am-5:30pm; Sept.-June 9am-4pm. MC/V.)

Allinge And Sandvig. These seaside villages are excellent for snorkeling and serve as starting points for hikes and bike rides through Bornholm’s northern coast. Many trails originate in Sandvig. The rocky area around Hammeren, northwest of the town, is a beautiful 2hr. walk. Just outside Sandvig is the lakeside Sandvig Vandrerhjem (HI) , Hammershusv. 94. Get off the bus one stop past Sandvig Gl. Station and follow the signs. (☎5648 0362. Breakfast 50kr. Sheets and towels 70kr. Laundry 40kr. Reception 9-10am and 4-6pm. Open May-Sept. Dorms 150kr; singles 275kr; doubles 400kr. 35kr HI discount. Cash only.) Riccos , Strandg. 8, in Sandvig, is a pleasant cafe in a private home near the sea with free Internet. (☎5648 0314. Open daily 7am-10pm. MC/V.) The Allinge tourist office is at Kirkeg. 4. (☎5648 0001. Open June-Aug. M-F 10am-4pm, Sa 10am-1pm; Oct.-May M-F 11am-4pm.) Rent bikes at the Sandvig Cykeludlejning, Strandvejen 121. (☎2145 6013. Open May-Sept. M-F 9am-3:30pm, Sa 9am-1pm, Su 10am-1pm. 60kr per day. Cash only.)