The mountain forests of the north may get 15 ft. of rain per year, but the dry forest of Bosque Estatal de Guánica gets an average of only 35 in. The forest contains such a unique diversity of plant and animal life, including the largest variety of birds on the island, that it was named a United Nations Biosphere Reserve in 1981. This is Puerto Rico’s paradise for outdoor pursuits, as it has some of the best hiking and water sports on the island. With over 20 mi. of trails, two islands just offshore, and cactus-covered cliffs that give way to the gently lapping waves of Caribbean beaches, it’s not unusual to see visitors lacing up their hiking boots, taking a kayak off the roof rack, unpacking snorkeling gear, or just wandering off with a picnic.
From Hwy. 2, turn south onto Rte. 116. The first important left is Rte. 334, which leads to the forest info center. The next left, onto Rte. 333, leads to most of the beaches, the accommodations, and the ferry dock. At the next intersection, Rte. 116R becomes Calle 25 de Julio and leads to Guánica’s center. C. 25 de Julio passes the plaza and veers left before intersecting with Rte. 333. C. 39 de Marzo intersects C. 25 de Julio just past the plaza. Inquire at the Alcaldía about schedules for públicos and the free trolley that goes around the city during the week. It leaves from the Alcaldía on C. 25 de Julio on the plaza at various times. Bosque Estatal de Guánica is divided into two sections. The larger eastern half contains the hiking trails, the two most popular beaches, and the two offshore islands, Isla Ballena and Guilligan’s Island. The western section is smaller and doesn’t have any trails but surrounds Playa Santa. In between, the small town of Guánica is a good place to stock up on supplies, but none of the streets have signs, making it difficult to get around or find visitor information.
Bosque Estatal de Guánica has no camping, and most guesthouses are fairly expensive. If you don’t want to splurge on a big resort, try the options below or head to nearby Guayanilla and La Parguera, which have more affordable options.
Most lodgings have full kitchens, so the best budget option is to stock up on groceries and cook for yourself. You can pick up food at the Econo supermarket, at the intersection of Rte. 116 and Rte. 116R. (☎821-2789. ATM. Open M-Sa 7am-8pm, Su 11am-5pm. AmEx/D/MC/V.) If you never learned to cook, hit up one of the fast-food places right off Rte. 116 near the city; you can also find one or two small cafeterías near the plaza.
Unlike most reserves, Guánica’s trails are all easy or moderate and frequently loop between sights, making it pleasant to spend a whole day (or longer) hiking through the forest. However, because of the somewhat monotonous vegetation, many of the trails look similar. The DRNA Information Center has detailed information about each trail and can provide personalized trail suggestions. Several of the trails are great for mountain biking since they aren’t too rocky and only have slight hills; there aren’t any places that rent bikes nearby, but if you can get one, it’s worth it. Some of the more popular hikes are listed below. All distances and times are one-way.
Vereda Meseta. (3.5km, 45min. Easy.) Meseta is the only trail in Guánica that borders the ocean. The path departs from the Playa Tamarindo parking lot, then continues west along the coastline, and heads all the way to the eastern edge of the forest. The view remains consistently incredible. At the beginning there are several good beaches just off the path, but farther east sand gives way to steep oceanside cliffs. Well-suited to mountain biking, Meseta also offers an up-close view of the coastal dry forest and a chance to see several sea birds, including frigate birds and white tropic birds. After the hike, you can head for a refreshing swim at Playa Tamarindo.
Camino Ballena. (2km, 30min. Easy.) This gravel trail is one of the easiest and best paths in Guánica. Not only does it pass through some of the wildest desert scenery, but it also conveniently leads from the information center down to Rte. 333 at Bahía La Ballena. Along the way, you’ll pass Guayacán Centenario, a 700-year-old tree that rises proudly above the lowland vegetation. The marked, northern trailhead is next to the DRNA Visitors Center, to the left as you walk away from the parking lot. The southern trailhead is not marked but is easily identifiable by the large green gate on Rte. 333.
Camino Julio Velez/Camino Los Granados. (2.5km, 1hr. for full loop. Easy.) This circular route leaves from the information center and provides a nice introduction to the forest. Reserve workers recommend this path because it is well marked, relatively short, and a great place to see many of the forest’s birds; over 40 bird species have been identified in this area. A detour at the eastern edge of the circle leads to La Vigia, the highest hill in the forest, which offers incredible views of its surroundings. The loop ends at Rte. 334, just a short walk back to the parking lot.
Fuerte Caprón. (5.5km, 1hr. Moderate.) One of the forest’s longer trails, the gravel road follows a ridgeline and leads southwest from the info center toward a small fort. Don’t expect to see El Morro—this is a tiny observation tower built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s on the site of a former Spanish fort. The path does not pass through particularly dramatic vegetation, but it does have great views of the city of Guánica and the bay. The trail undulates up and down small hills and has three small turn-offs (from east to west: Hoya Hunda, Picua, and El Ver). The trail ends at Rte. 333 Km 3.2 at Playa Jaboncillo. Coming from the south, park in the small turn-off at Km 3.2 and take the narrow path that heads toward the old water tower. If you don’t want to leave your car on the road, park in the Visitors Center and head down the trail, but be ready for an uphill return trip.
Camino Cueva. (1.5km, 20min. Easy.) This unmarked path leads uphill from the Playa Tamarindo swimming area parking lot to the intersection with Camino Llúberas. Here you can find 3m-tall prickly pear cacti as well as several brightly colored butterflies. There is also a large cave that contains petroglyphs and two species of bats; to visit it, you must obtain permision from the DRNA and be accompanied by a guide. The trail is clear, but lacks adequate signage. To enter from the south, step over the short wire gate next to the green gate at the parking lot entrance, then continue uphill. When you reach Camino Lluberas, you can turn around or veer to the left and eventually you’ll reach Camino Julio Velez, adding another 2.5km (40min.) to your hike.
Guánica’s coastline alternates between steep cliffs and sandy beaches, and the water ranges from large, rough waves to tiny, shallow pools. There are several nice public beaches, but the most rewarding experience may be to explore until you find your own quiet stretch of sand. Dive Copamarina, in the Copamarina Beach Resort, Rte. 333 Km 6.5, offers two-tank dives to The Wall. (☎821-0505, ext. 729, toll-free 800-981-4676; www.copamarina.com. 2-tank dive $85, equipment $10. 3-day certification course $450; advance registration required. Discover Scuba package $150. Open daily 9am-5pm. AmEx/MC/V.)
Playa Joboncillo. For true privacy, head down the steep rocky dirt road to this beautiful blue bay surrounded by rocky cliffs on either side. A covered picnic table and fire pit reveal that others enjoy this beach, but on weekdays it provides an oasis of picturesque solitude. (Rte. 333 Km 3.1. 4WD is helpful but not necessary. Walk down the road a bit to see if your car can handle the conditions.)
The Islands. If you’ve ever wanted to visit Guilligan’s Island, here’s your chance. A 10min. motorboat ride takes you to the tiny mangrove-covered island, where a few small beaches hide amid trees. There’s not much sand, so arrive by 11am on weekends to get a spot. The water here is shallow and clear, making for nice snorkeling. Guilligan’s Island has an outhouse, a DRNA office, and covered picnic tables. Nearby Isla Ballena is a different story. Ballena is less crowded and has a long sandy isthmus good for lounging, but no facilities. (Ferries travel from Restaurant San Jacinto (see Food) to Guilligan’s Island and Isla Ballena. Tu-F every hr., Sa-Su every 30min. 9am-5pm; $5 round-trip. Open Tu-Su 9am-5pm.)
Playa Santa. To reach Playa Santa from Guánica, follow Rte. 116 west, turn off onto Rte. 3112, turn south onto Rte. 325, continue to the end, turn left at the T, and take the first right to the parking area. Playa Santa is at the doorstep of a centro vacacional for state employees; it is open to the public and offers good swimming but no facilities. Ancla Flotante, at the parking lot, plays music all day and draws a beach crowd with its empanada stand and $1 Corona Happy hour. (Bathrooms for customers only.) Around the corner you can also grab a drink or shoot some pool at Brisas de Santa Plaza. Both are open as long as there are people on the beach. If lying on the beach makes you restless, stop by Pino’s Boats and Water Fun, which rents a variety of water equipment (see Equipment Rental).
Balneario Caña Gorda. Situated right next door to the Copamarina Beach Resort, this long, white sand beach lined with dry forest trees has some excellent sunning areas.Caña Gorda has all the amenities of a balneario, including lifeguards, showers, bathrooms, chair rental ($5 per day with ID), covered picnic tables, a cafe, and a mini-market. (Rte. 333 Km 6. ☎821-5676. Parking cars $3, vans $4. Open daily Sept.-May 8am-5pm; June-Aug. 7am-6pm.)
Bahía La Ballena/Playa Tamarindo. Driving along Rte. 333, you’ll find cars and people sprawled all along Bahía la Ballena. The road ends at Playa Tamarindo, a long patch of sand with ample space for sunbathing and water deep enough for swimming. However, the only facilities are trash cans, and the area can get relatively crowded. Head along the Vereda Meseta trail to find a more secluded spot. (At the end of Rte. 333, about 2 mi. past Copamarina Resort.)
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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