Brest Overview

Brest (brehst; pop. 153,000) became a wasteland in 1944 when Allied bombers drove out the occupying German fleet. Reconstructed in modern style, the city boasts a lively urban atmosphere with a twist of seaside flavor. Tourists and locals alike throng its enormous Océanopolis aquarium.

Trains: Pl. du 19ème Régiment d’Infanterie. Ticket office open M-F 5:20am-7:30pm, Sa 6am-6:30pm, Su 8am-7:50pm. To: Morlaix (30min., 13-20 per day, €12); Paris (4hr., 10 per day, €66); Quimper (30min., 6 per day, €15); Rennes (2hr., 10 per day, €35).
Buses: Penn-ar-Bed, (☎02 98 44 46 73; www.viaoo29.fr), next to the train station. Open M-F 6:50am-12:30pm and 1-7pm, Sa 8:45am-1:15pm and 2:30-7pm, Su 1:30-2:30pm and 5:15-7pm. To Quimper (1hr.; M-Sa 5 per day, Su 2 per day; €6, under 26 €3), Roscoff (1hr.; 5 per day; €2, under 26 €1.50), and smaller towns in the region for €2. Tickets are valid for 1hr. on the Bibus system (below).
Public Transportation: Bibus, 33 av. Georges Clemenceau (☎02 98 80 30 30; www.bibus.fr). Open M-F 8:15am-6:15pm, Sa 9am-5pm. Runs buses daily Sept.-June 6am-8pm; night lines hourly M-Th and Su 9-11pm, F-Sa 9pm-midnight. Service reduced July-Aug.; check schedules and maps available at the bus and tourist offices. Buy tickets (€1.20) and 24hr. passes (valid midnight-midnight; €3.30) on board; get carnets of 10 (€9.10) or weekly passes (valid M-Su; €9.40, must have student ID) at the office.
Taxis: ☎02 98 42 11 11. At the train station.
Bike Rental: Available at the tourist office July-Aug. €2 per hr., €8 per day.

Orientation And Practical Information

To the right of the train station, av. Georges Clemenceau leads to the central place de la Liberté, an open square with fountains in front of the hôtel de ville. This is both the centre-ville and the main terminal for its bus system. Rue de Siam, running south from the place to the sea, is the most vibrant street in the city, with boutiques lining either side. Rue Jean Jaurès, north of the place, is also prime shopping territory; exercise caution in the area at night. Ferries leave for nearby isles from port du Commerce.

Tourist Office: Pl. de la Liberté (☎02 98 44 24 96; www.brest-metropole-tourisme.fr). Multilingual staff. Visitor’s handbook, free maps, info on sights and tours, free hotel and ferry reservations, and advice on trips to Île d’Ouessant. Open July-Aug. M-Sa 9:30am-7pm, Su 10am-noon; Sept.-June M-Sa 9:30am-6pm.
English-Language Bookstore: Dialogues, pl. Roull (☎02 98 44 88 68; www.librairiedialogues.fr), with entrances on rue de Siam and rue Louis Pasteur. An immense bookstore with an English-language section. Free Wi-Fi. Open M-Sa 9:30am-7:30pm.
Youth Center: Bureau Information Jeunesse (BIJ), 4 rue Augustin Morvan (☎02 98 43 01 08; www.bij-brest.org), off pl. de la Liberté. Offers info on jobs and internships. Free Internet. Open July and late Aug. M-F 10am-noon and 1:30-4:30pm; Sept.-June M-Tu 1:30-6pm, W-F 9:30am-noon and 1:30-6pm, Sa 9:30am-noon.
Bank: BNP Paribus, 28 rue d’Aiguillon. Open Tu-F 8:30am-12:15pm and 1:45-5:45pm, Sa 8:50am-12:30pm.
Laundromats: 8 pl. de la Liberté. Wash €3.20-7, dry €1 per 10min. Open daily 8am-8pm. Also at 7 rue de Siam. Wash €3-7, dry €1 per 10min. Open daily 8am-9:30pm.
Police: 15 rue Colbert (☎02 98 43 77 77).
Pharmacy: 29 av. Georges Clemenceau (☎02 98 44 19 47), off pl. de la Liberté. Open July-Aug. M-F 9:30am-7:30pm; Sept.-June M-F 8am-8pm, Sa 9:30am-1pm.
Hospital: 2 av. du Maréchal Foch (☎02 98 22 33 33).
Internet Access: Free at the BIJ (see Youth Center, above) and at Dialogues (see English-Language Bookstore, above). @ccescibles, 31 av. Georges Clemenceau (☎02 98 46 76 10; www.accescibles.fr). Computer or Wi-Fi €1 per 15min., €3.50 per hr. Open M-Sa 11am-1am, Su 2-11pm.
Post Office: 90 rue de Siam (☎02 98 33 73 06), on esplanade du Général Leclerc. Currency exchange, faxing services, and photocopier available. Open M-F 8am-7pm, Sa 8am-noon. Postal Code: 29200.

Accommodations And Camping

Auberge de Jeunesse (HI), 5 rue Kerbriant (☎02 98 41 90 41; www.aj-brest.org), 4km from the train station, near Océanopolis. From pl. de la Liberté, take bus #3 (dir.: Océanopolis; M-Sa 6:30am-8:30pm, Su 9:45am-8:30pm) or night bus #N25 or #N27 to Palaren. Turn right, walk under the overpass, and take the 2nd right. Walk uphill and turn left to reach the hostel. Palm trees and a nearby beach create a tropical resort atmosphere. Spacious rooms with modern furnishings in several buildings. Experienced staff provides helpful info, including ferry discounts. Stone fireplace, TV room, and common room with piano, foosball, ping-pong, and pool tables. Bicycle garage and kitchen also available. Breakfast included. Luggage storage. Laundry. Free Wi-Fi in the common areas. Key deposit for late entry (€50). Reception July-Aug. 7:30-10am and 5pm-midnight; Sept.-June 7:30am-10am and 5-11pm. Lockout 10am-5pm. Curfew July-Aug. midnight; Sept.-June 11pm. Dorms €17; demi-pension €27. MC/V.
Hôtel Astoria, 9 rue Traverse (☎02 98 80 19 10; www.hotel-astoria-brest.com). Central, quiet location. Classy, spotless rooms with TVs. Breakfast €7. Showers €4. Free Wi-Fi. Reception daily 7am-11pm. Reserve 1 week ahead, especially July-Aug. Singles and doubles €29, with shower and toilet €45-50, with bath €53-54. AmEx/MC/V.
Kelig Hôtel, 12 rue de Lyon (☎02 98 80 47 21; lucas.pascale@wanadoo.fr), near the train station. 25 large rooms with showers, TVs, wood wardrobes, and comfortable beds. Breakfast €7. Laundry €8. Free Wi-Fi. Reception M-F 7am-9:30pm, Sa 8am-7pm, Su 8am-12:30pm. Singles with shower €35, with shower and toilet €45-50; doubles €38/48-53; triples €55-60. AmEx/MC/V.
Camping du Goulet, route de Ste-Anne du Portzic (☎02 98 45 86 84). From downtown, take bus #28 (dir.: Plouzané) to Cosquer (20-25min.). At night, take bus #N26 (dir.: Plouzané) via Technopôle (M-Th and Su 1 per night, F-Sa 3 per night). Seems like a luxury resort with pool, waterslides, bar, and clean facilities. Reception July-Aug. 8am-8pm; Sept.-June 9:30am-noon and 2:30-7pm. 2 adults and car €13-23; €2.50-5 per extra person, under 7 €2. Electricity €3-3.50. AmEx/MC/V.

Food

Markets are held every day in various locations, such as the traditional and organic markets on rue du Moulin à Poudre (open Tu 4-8pm, Sa 8:30am-12:30pm), the enormous market on place Saint-Louis (open Su 8:30am-12:30pm), and a slightly pricier indoor market at Les Halles Saint-Louis, one block from rue de Siam (open M-Sa 7am-1pm and 4-7:30pm, Su 7am-1pm). Pâtisseries and kebab counters can be found on and around rue Jean Jaurès and rue de Siam; for more filling meals, try the end of rue de Siam near the port. A handful of restaurants and bars clusters to the southeast at port du Commerce. For groceries, head to Marché Plus, 59 rue Louis Pasteur, just off rue de Siam (open M-Sa 7am-9pm, Su 9am-1pm), or the basement of Monoprix, 49 rue de Siam (open M-Sa 8am-8pm).

Le Mont Liban, 8 pl. de la Liberté (☎02 98 80 12 76). Couples rendezvous for 2-person meze (€40-52) and other Middle Eastern delicacies. Lots of vegetarian dishes. Lunch menus €8.50-16. Open M-F noon-2pm and 7:30-10pm, Sa 7:30-11pm. MC/V.
Crêperie Moderne, 34 rue Algésiras (☎02 98 44 44 35). Locals enjoy classic galettes and crêpes (€1.80-10.50). Double your portion for only a little extra. Open M-Sa 11:30am-2:30pm and 6:30-10:30pm. MC/V.
Amour de Pomme de Terre, 23 rue des Halles St-Louis (☎02 98 43 48 51), hidden behind the indoor market. Potato lovers will revel in the abundance of their favorite vegetable. Plats €15-28. Lunch menus €8.50-19. Open M noon-2pm and 7-10pm, Tu-Th noon-2pm and 7:30-10:30pm, F noon-2pm and 7:30-11pm, Sa noon-2pm and 7-11:30pm, Su noon-2pm and 7:30-10pm. MC/V.

Sights

Château. Brest’s château was the only major building to survive the bombings of WWII. In its 1700 strife-filled years, the world’s oldest active military institution has been defended by Roman, Breton, English, French, and German troops. Much of the fortress still serves as a French naval base, but several towers house the Musée de la Marine, an eclectic collection of naval art and artifacts. Impressive wood prow carvings and model ships appear alongside historical placards detailing the story of the château’s construction. (☎02 98 22 12 39; www.musee-marine.fr. Open daily Apr.-Sept. 10am-6:30pm; Oct.-Mar. 1:30-6pm. Last entry 1hr. before close. Tours 2-3 times per day July-Aug. €5, students €3.50, under 18 free. Tours €2.)

Monument Américain. Also known as the Tour Rose (Pink Tower), this rose-colored monument overlooks the port du Commerce and commemorates the US Navy’s 1917 and 1918 supply convoys. (Rue de Denver.)

Océanopolis. This aquarium presents a huge exhibit of sea creatures in three pavilions. The temperate pavilion highlights the marine life of Brittany and the Iroise Sea (which surrounds Île d’Ouessant), while the polar pavilion contains a panoramic theater that opens onto a penguin playland. Finally, the tropical pavilion exhibits a coral reef and sizable shark tank. Arrive early to beat the crowds. (Port de Plaisance. ☎02 98 34 40 40; www.oceanopolis.com. Take bus #3 (dir.: Océanopolis; daily every 30min. until 7:30pm) from pl. de la Liberté. Open from mid-July to Aug. daily 9am-7pm; Sept.-Dec. and Feb.-Mar. Tu-Sa 10am-5pm, Su 10am-6pm; Apr.-June daily 9am-6pm. Wheelchair-accessible. €16, ages 4-17 €11. Audio tour €4. MC/V.)

Conservatoire Botanique De Brest. This public garden and conservatory stretches through 2km of exotic plant life, bamboo groves, and bubbling brooks. (Take bus #3 to Palaren. Head left at the roundabout, uphill onto route de Quimper, and right at the sign. ☎02 98 02 46 00; www.cbnbrest.fr. Gardens open daily May-Oct. 9am-8pm; Nov.-Mar 9am-6pm. Free. Greenhouses open from July to mid-Sept. M-Th and Su 2-5:30pm; from mid-Sept. to mid-Nov. and Easter-June W and Su 2-5:30pm. Self-guided booklet tours available in English and French. €3.50, ages 10-16 €2.)

Nightlife And Festivals

On Thursdays in summer, the popular Jeudis du Port concerts liven up port du Commerce with Breton music, rock, and jazz. (From mid-July to late Aug. Th 7pm-1am. Free.) Every four years, next in 2012, Brest hosts a major Fête Maritime Internationale (☎02 98 32 20 08; www.brest2008.fr), assembling antiquated boats from around the world into a single unique fleet. Visitors can go aboard vessels at anchor or stay on firm ground for musical performances and shipbuilding demonstrations on the quais.

Nightlife centers on port de Commerce, the near side of the pont de Recouvrance, and the streets near place de la Liberté. Avoid the neighborhoods on the other side of the pont de Recouvrance after dark.

Casa Havana, 2 rue de Siam (☎02 98 80 42 87). Lively Latin music and bright red walls. Beer €2.50. Mixed drinks €5.80-6.80. Tapas €2.90. Desserts €3.10. Salsa lessons M-W; beginners 7:30pm (free), intermediate at 9:30pm (€5). Salsa nights Th and the 1st Sa of the month. DJ Th-Sa 8pm. Open daily 3pm-1am. AmEx/MC/V.
Aux Quatres Vents, 18 quai de la Douane (☎02 98 44 42 84). Nautical portside bar with decor of intricate model ships, tables covered with maps, and a boat hanging from the ceiling. Beer €1.70-4. Grog €2.30. Open daily 9am-1am. AmEx/MC/V.
Tara Inn, 1 rue Blaveau (☎02 98 80 36 07), near port du Commerce. Kir €2.20. Beer €2.30-2.90. Celtic-themed venue features choice local musicians on Th nights. Jazz manouche the last Su of every month. Breton music 1st Su of every month. Open M-F 11am-1am, Sa-Su 3pm-1am. MC/V.