London The City of London

Saint Paul's Cathedral, St. Paul's Churchyard ( 020 7246 8350; www.stpauls.co.uk">www.stpauls.co.uk'>www.stpauls.co.uk) Entering Saint Paul’s Cathedral and not taking the Lord’s name in vain is a challenge. Like many churches in the area, Saint Paul’s was destroyed in the Great Fire of London. Christopher Wren’s masterpiece is the fourth cathedral on the site, with the first building dating to 604 CE. From the start, Wren wanted to include the fantastic dome that is now visible throughout London, but the Church of England was hesitant to include a piece of architecture that was characteristically Roman Catholic. Ultimately, Wren won.
INTERIOR. The first thing you see upon entering the Cathedral is the nave. The baptismal font stands next to an elaborately designed wax candle in the south part of the nave. If you can pull your eyes away from the dome, which was painted by Sir James Thornhill, look out for the terrifyingly huge memorial to the Duke of Wellington (on your left in the north aisle as you walk through the nave) and William Holman Hunt’s The Light of the World which can be found in the Middlesex Chapel, a chapel set aside for private prayer dedicated to the members of the Middlesex regimen of the British army. Also look out for Henry Moore’s strikingly modern Mother and Child sculpture as well as the memorial to American and British service men in WWII.
SCALING THE HEIGHTS. We know what you’re thinking—yes, you are allowed to climb to the top of the dome. After 257 short, dizzyingly tight wooden steps, guests find the Whispering Gallery, a seating area around the inner ring of the dome where, under the right conditions, you can whisper and be heard on the other side. Many people try this at the same time, which makes standing at the rim of Wren’s magnificent dome feel a bit like one of the scarier whisper segments in Lost, but it’s worth giving this acoustic novelty a try. The experience of climbing to the top is greatly enhanced if you make the journey while a choir sings in the nave; the acoustics in the Whispering Gallery are incredible. After 376 steps, visitors can climb out onto the Stone Gallery which is open-air, low-stress, and thoroughly enjoyable. Then it’s another 152 steps to the Golden Gallery, an open-air, super high look out onto the city. The army used this gallery in the second World War to spot enemy planes coming from up to 10 miles away. The only drawback to the view is that you can’t see the grandeur of St. Paul’s itself.
PLUMBING THE DEPTHS. A veritable who's who of famous Britons reside in the loins of St. Paul's. Descend beneath the cathedral to find the tombs and memorials of Captain John Cooke, Horatio Nelson, Florence Nightingale, the Duke of Wellington (whose massive tomb is footed by sleeping stone lions), William Blake, Henry Moore, and finally Christopher Wren. Wren's inconspicuous tomb (to the right of the OBE Chapel) is inscribed "Lector, si monumentum requiris circumspice" which translates to "Reader, if you seek his monument, look around." Saint Paul's Cathedral is jaw-droppingly magnificent; there could be no better monument to its visionary architect than the simple words etched on his tomb. St. Paul’s. There are signs outside the station that will lead you to the Cathedral. Guided tours are 1½hr., and they occur at 10:45, 11:15am, 1:30, and 2pm; £3, children £1. A free multimedia tour will be provided starting mid-July-early Sept 2010. Audio tours available in 8 languages including English £4). £12.50, students £9.50, seniors £11, children £4.50; family (2 adults, 2 kids) £29.50; group rates (10+) adults £11.50, students £8.50, seniors £10.50, children £4. M-Sa 8:30am-4:00pm (last ticket sold). Least crowded early in the day. Get in for free (though you'll have limited access) at one of the church services; 7:30am matins; 8am. 12:30pm Holy Communion; 5pm evensong. Free organ recitals every Su from 4:45-5:15.

Museum of London, By the London Wall ( 020 7001 9844 ;www.museumoflondon.org.uk) The Museum of London is an exhaustive celebration of the city, tracing its history from the pre-Roman days, through the fall of that empire (too bad the city's no longer known as Londinium), up to the present through a series of timelines, walk-in exhibits, and artifacts. Among the fascinating pieces of history on display are a walk-in replica of a London Saxon house from the mid-1000s, a beautiful model of the original St. Paul's cathedral, a taxi from 1908, and Beatlemania paraphernalia. Relatively compact for its sheer scope, the Museum of London yields tremendous bang for your buck, especially because it's free! St. Pauls. Go up St. Martins and Aldersgate. 45min. tours at 11am, noon, 3, and 4pm. Free. Open M-F 10am-6pm. Wheelchair access.

Potters Fields Park, Tooley St. towards Tower Bridge (020 7407 4702; pottersfields.co.uk) Providing wide patches of grass for denizens of the park to stretch out on, as well as breathtaking views of Tower Bridge and the Thames, Potters Fields Park is an oasis in such a busy city. It's at the heart of London, but far removed from its bustle. City Hall sits within the park and is just as architecturally magnificent as Tower Bridge. After seeing the park, you may want to check out more of the waterfront and do some shopping in Hay's Galleria. Also, be sure to notice the HMS Belfast, which is just down the river from the park; a ticket is required to board the vessel. London Bridge. Walk down Tooley St. towards Tower Bridge. Go through Hay’s Galleria and walk along the river towards Tower Bridge. Free. Wheelchair access.

Tower Bridge, Tower Bridge ( 020 7403 3761 ;www.towerbridge.org.uk) If Fergie had gone to the Tower Bridge exhibition, she would have known that bascule bridges come down more often than London Bridge. Built between 1886 and 1894, Tower Bridge was created because London Bridge had become too crowded. It is a bascule bridge, meaning that, if you're lucky, you'll get to see it rise (and then come down). The exhibition is enjoyable, though if you're afraid of heights, it might not be for you. Hear fun facts about the bridge as well as enchanting anecdotes such as the story of a 1952 double-decker bus that accidentally jumped the bridge while it was rising—clearly the driver never heard the phrase, "Mind the gap." The bridge is less of a tourist trap than the Tower of London, and just as engaging. Of course, the stunning architecture and eye-popping colors of the bridge can be enjoyed for free. Tower Hill. Follow signs to Tower Bridge. £7, concessions £5 ages 5-15 £3, under 5 free; 1 adult and 2 children £11; 2 adults and 1 child £14; 2 adults and 2 children £16; 2 adults and 3-4 children £18. Open daily Apr 1-Sept 30 10am-5:30pm; Oct 1-Mar 31 9:30am-5pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access.

Guildhall Art Gallery, Between Basinghall St. and Coleman St. ( 020 7332 3700; www.guildhall-art-gallery.org.uk) The entrance to the gallery is through fantastic Guildhall Yard, which feels isolated from the city. The gallery specializes in Victorian art but also has a rotating exhibit of art from all periods relating to London (they're currently running an exhibit on the Royal Post). "I'm sold!" you say. But wait. You haven't heard the best part! While constructing the gallery in 1988, archaeologists uncovered an amphitheater from Londinium (Roman London). The intact portions from the site are left as they were found beneath the gallery in an impressive exhibition. Also included in the exhibition is a display of a Roman drainage system. Bank. Go up Princes St., take left on Gresham St. and right on Basinghall St. Guild Yard will be on your right. £2.50, free after 3:30pm and all day F; concessions for students, seniors, and unemployed £1. Open M-Sa 10am-5pm, last entry at 4:30pm; Su noon-4pm, last entry 3:45pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access.

Tower of London Between Tower Hill and the Thames (084 4482 7777; www.hrp.org.uk/toweroflondon) In its 1,000-year history, the Tower of London has been a fortress, a royal palace, a prison, a zoo, a mint, the house of the first royal observatory, and a tourist trap. If tourists were an invading army back in the day of William the Conqueror, he would have surrendered instantly. The Tower has tours led by "Beefeaters," the men and women who guard and live within the tower.
TRAITOR’S GATE. Originally named "Watergate," Traitor’s Gate was the passage from the Tower to the River Thames through which prisoners entered the tower.
SOME OF THE TOWERS. Byward Tower is part of the Tower’s intriguing, if somewhat gimmicky, attempt at living history. Byward Tower currently houses many of the Tower’s more than 100 residences. Wakefield Tower is near the home of the famous six ravens. The legend of the ravens claims that if they fly away the white tower will crumble and disaster will befall the monarchy.
BLOODY TOWER. The tower was built in 1225, and the most famous anecdote surrounding it is one of bizarre death (as are most stories surrounding the Tower). Prince Edward V and Richard, Duke of York, were suffocated by pillows in the tower, and their bodies weren’t found until 191 years after their deaths. This tale was the inspiration for Shakespeare’s Richard III.
THE WHITE TOWER. Built by William of Normandy in 1078 as the first structure of the Tower of London, the White Tower was once a royal palace with the top floor reserved for kings and queens, the floor below housing the servants, and the basement serving as a dungeon (and guest house!). Part of it is built on the Roman city wall of London. The White Tower currently houses the "Royal Armoury: Fit for a King" exhibit which features armor from the Normans to the Windsors, with notable sections that feature Henry VIII’s personal armor. Be sure to take note of his enhanced codpiece, as well as the chuckling British and cackling Americans pointing at it, while their kids try to figure out what all the fuss is about.
JEWEL HOUSE. The Jewel House contains all of the regalia used for the coronation of British royalty and boasts jewels with enough glitter to induce an epileptic seizure. The gems are the focal point of many people’s trips to the tower, so try to go earlier in the day, if possible. Inside, you’ll find the sovereign’s scepter highlighted by a cross with the world’s largest perfect diamond in the world, the First Star of Africa (530.2 carats).
TOWER GREEN. The Green is a lovely grass area at the center of the tower, outside the Chapel Royal of St. Peter and Vincula. The eight friends of the monarch who were beheaded by the government had the good fortune to get their heads lopped off on the Tower Green. Whatever happened here, it did wonders for the grass.
OUTSIDE THE TOWER. Outside the tower lies Tower Hill, the primary execution site. The last execution (that of Lord Lovat) was held here in 1747. Every night for the last 700 years, the Ceremony of the Keys has been performed. To get a ticket, you must send an application with the names of everyone you hope to bring and two possible dates of attendance at least two months in advance (earlier if you’re attending in the summer) inside an envelope with proper stamps (or at least 2 coupon-response international) to "Ceremony of the Keys Office, Tower of London, LONDON, EC3N 4AB, Great Britain." The Ceremony is free, but you need tickets, and groups are limited to six people max.
Tower Hill. Buy tickets at the Tube stop or at the Welcome Center, as these places tend to be less crowded. £17; student, senior, and disabled £14.50; children under 5 free; family (1-2 adults and up to 6 kids) £47. Audio tours available in 9 different languages; £4, students £3. An Individual Membership gives you unlimited, year-round access to all the Royal Palaces for £41, family membership £80. Portions of the site wheelchair accessible. Mar 1-Oct 31: M 10am-5:30pm, Tu-Su 9:00am-5:30pm, last entry sold at 4pm. Cafe: Tu-Sa 9:30am-5pm, Su-M 10:30am-5pm. Ceremony of the Keys 9:30pm nightly.

Clockmakers' Museum, Inside Guildhall Library off Aldermanbury ( 020 7332 1868 ; N/A ) The one-room Clockmakers' Museum is sort of like the interior of Doc Brown's house from Back to the Future, except with more clocks. Each clock, watch, sun dial, and chronometer from the 500 year history of clocks is explained either historically or technically by its accompanying pamphlet. For those less inclined to horological technology, the museum has famous watches and clocks, like the watch worn by Sir Edmund Hillary during his successful 1953 climb of Mount Everest and some of the first mass-produced watches. Worth a brief visit, if only to hear the sound of so many clocks ticking together. St. Paul’s. Go down Cheapside with your back to St. Paul’s Cathedral. Turn left on King St., left on Gresham and right on Aldermanbury. Enter through the library. Free. Open M-Sa 9:30am-4:45pm. Closed Sa on bank holiday weekends. Wheelchair access.

Saint Mary-Le-Bow, Cheapside, near Bow Ln. ( 020 7248 5139 ;www.stmarylebow.co.uk) Though the chapel dates back to 1080 when there was first a church on the site, the church has been restored several times. First, it was burned in the Great Fire of London in 1666, but it was rebuilt by Christopher Wren. Then, it was bombed during World War II, rebuilt in its modern form, and reconsecrated in 1956. London lore says that if you're born within the sound of Bow bells (which used to ring the 9pm city curfew, signaling all the apprentices to stop working) you're a true cockney. The interior of the church is a masterpiece, filled with gorgeous gold-laced Corinthian columns. St. Pauls. Walk down Cheapside away from St. Paul’s Cathedral. Free. Open M-W 7am-6pm, Th 7am-6:30pm, F 7am-4pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access.

The Monument, Monument ( 020 7626 2717 ;www.themonument.info) Built between 1671 and 1677, the Monument stands in memory of the Great Fire of London that burned most of the city in 1666. At 202 ft. tall, with an inner shaft containing 311 stairs that must be climbed in order to reach the breathtaking open-air top floor, the Monument is what your Stairmaster would look like in the pre-mechanical age. If you were to lay the tower on its side pointing in a certain direction, it would land on the spot where the fire started. It would also cause mass hysteria. It is the only non-ecclesiastical Christopher Wren building, though some scholars maintain that it was built to worship rock hard thighs. Enjoy the view from the top! Monument. Get off the Tube and it will be directly in front of you as you exit the station. £3, concessions £2, children £1. Combined tickets available with the Tower Bridge exhibition. Combined prices: £8, concessions £5.50, children £3.50. Open daily 9:30am-5pm. Closed on Christmas and Boxing Day. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access.

St. Stephen Walbrook, 39 Walbrook ( 020 7626 9000; www.ststephenwalbrook.net">www.ststephenwalbrook.net'>www.ststephenwalbrook.net) You may wonder about the marshmallow-like object sitting in the center of the room, but this is merely Henry Moore's controversial idea of what an altar should look like. Rumored to have "the most perfectly proportioned interior in the world," St. Stephen Walbrook, a Saxon church originally built in the seventh century, is a beautiful Wren reconstruction. The church used to be bordered by a river, and the structure fights a continuous battle against gravity as it slips downward. Visit toward the end of the day during the summer to bask in the light that floods through the glass windows. Mansion House. Take right onto Cannon St., then left onto Walbrook. Eucharist is M at 1pm. Free. M-F 10am-4pm. Organ recitals F 12:30pm. Wheelchair access.

St. Mary Woolnoth Intersection of King William and Lombard St. ( 020 7626 9701 ; N/A ) This church is seated near the center of one of the busiest intersections in the City of London, and was restored by (who else?) Christopher Wren after the Great Fire of London. John Newton (the co-composer of Amazing Grace) was also a rector here from 1779-1807. St. Mary Woolnoth's is an undiscovered piece of history in a city full of crowded gems. Bank. Intersection of King William and Lombard St. Free meditation hr. W 6:30pm. Free. M-F 9:30am-4:30pm. No wheelchair access.