The South Bank

During the Middle Ages, the South Bank was outside the jurisdiction of the City authorities, and thus, all manner of illicit attractions sprouted in “the Borough” at the southern end of London Bridge. Bankside soon became the city’s entertainment center. After the English Civil War, the South Bank’s fortunes turned to the sea, as wharves groaned under the weight of cargoes from across the Empire. By the time shipping moved elsewhere in the late 1950s, the seeds of regeneration had been sown. From the 1951 Festival of Britain sprang the Royal Festival Hall, the nucleus of the South Bank Centre and heart of the new South Bank. The National Theatre followed 20 years later, and development has continued at such a pace that the South Bank is now once more the heart of the London art scene, with a visitor-friendly conglomeration of art galleries, theatres, and music halls, each with their own bit of history.

 Shakespeare’S Globe Theatre. This incarnation of the Globe is faithful to the original, thatch roof and all. The original burned down in 1613 after a 14-year run as the Bard’s preferred playhouse. Today’s reconstruction had its first full season in 1997 and now stands as the cornerstone of the International Shakespeare Globe Centre. The informative exhibit inside covers the theatre’s history and includes displays on costumes and customs of the theatre, as well as information on other prominent playwrights of Shakespeare’s era. There’s also an interactive display where you get to trade lines with recorded Globe actors. Try to arrive in time for a tour of the theatre itself. Tours that run during a matinee skip the Globe but are the only way to gain admission to the neighboring Rose Theatre, where both Shakespeare and Christopher Marlowe performed. For info on performances, (Bankside, close to Bankside pier. Southwark or London Bridge. ☎ 7902 1400; www.shakespeares-globe.org. Open daily Apr.-Sept. 9am-noon (exhibit and tours) and 12:30-5pm (exhibit only); Oct.-Apr. 10am-5pm (exhibit and tours). Wheelchair-accessible. £9, concessions £7.50, children 5-15 £6.50, families of 5 £20.)

 Southwark Cathedral. A site of worship since AD 606, the cathedral has undergone numerous transformations in the last 1400 years. The majestic main chapel is full of historical connections. Shakespeare’s brother Edmund is buried here, and a rare stained-glass window depicts characters from Shakespearean plays. In the rear of the nave, there are four smaller chapels; the northernmost Chapel of St. Andrew is specifically dedicated to those living with and dying from HIV and AIDS. In 2001, a new conference center and cafe were opened on the grounds by Nelson Mandela as part of the millennium celebrations. Near the center, the archaeological gallery is actually a small excavation revealing a 1st-century Roman road along with Saxon, Norman, and 18th-century remains. Various treasures from the cathedral’s face-lifts are on display; don’t miss the medieval wooden decorations, including a frightening depiction of the devil swallowing Judas. (Montague Close. London Bridge. ☎ 7367 6700; www.southwark.anglican.org/cathedral. Open M-F 8am-6pm, Sa-Su 9am-6pm. Wheelchair-accessible. Admission free, suggested donation £4. Groups are asked to book in advance; group rates available. Audio tours £5; concessions £4, children 5-15 £2.50. Camera permit £2; video permit £5.)

London Eye. Also known as the Millennium Wheel, at 135m (430 ft.) the British Airways London Eye is the biggest observational wheel in the world, taller than St. Paul’s Cathedral and visible for miles around. The lines are about a millennium long, so don’t come in the middle of the day or you’ll be there forever. The elliptical glass “pods” give uninterrupted views from the top of each 30min. revolution. On clear days, you can see Windsor in the west, though eastward views are blocked by skyscrapers farther down the river. (Jubilee Gardens, between County Hall and the Festival Hall. Waterloo. ☎ 087 990 8883; www.ba-londoneye.com. Open daily Oct.-May 10am-8pm, June-Sept. 10am-9pm. Wheelchair-accessible. Buy tickets from box office at the corner of County Hall before joining the queue at the Eye. Advance booking recommended, but check the weather. £14.50, concessions £11, children under 16 £7.25.)

Gabriel’S Wharf And Oxo Tower. One of the more colorful additions to the South Bank, Gabriel’s Wharf is a craftsy market-like area where little shops and restaurants stretch from the water down into the surrounding streets. A few steps away is the Art Deco OXO Tower, built by a company that once supplied instant beef stock to the entire British Empire. OXO Tower is famous for its clever subversion of rules prohibiting advertising on buildings: the windows subtly spell out “OXO.” The Tower is now enveloped in the brick mass of the OXO Tower Wharf, full of tiny boutiques and workshops run by some of London’s most innovative young designers. A free public viewing gallery on the eighth floor provides prime views over the South Bank area and connects to a bar and restaurant. (Between Upper Ground and the Thames. Blackfriars, Southwark, or Waterloo. Wheelchair-accessible.)

Hms Belfast. This enormous cruiser was one of the most powerful ships in the world when launched in 1938. The Belfast led the British landing at Normandy on D-Day and supported UN forces in Korea before retiring in 1965. In 1971, she went on display as part of the Imperial War Museum and still holds her regal floating spot on the Thames, boasting a prodigious mid-river view. Children will love clambering over the decks and aiming the 40mm anti-aircraft guns at dive-bombing seagulls. A climb down the narrow steps shows the inner-workings of the carrier. You can tour the kitchens and operations room, where waxworks and sound recordings recreate the sinking of the German battleship Scharnhorst in 1943. The steep staircases and ladders from deck to deck add to the realism but make exploring the boat a physical challenge. On-deck benches are pleasant resting spots. (At the end of Morgans Ln., off Tooley St.; also accessible via the Queen’s Walk. London Bridge. ☎ 7940 6300; www.iwm.org.uk. Open daily Mar.-Oct. 10am-6pm; Nov.-Feb. 10am-5pm. Last admission 45min. before closing. £10, concessions £6.15, children under 16 free.)

Butlers Wharf. Just east of Tower Bridge, Butlers Wharf is one of the best places to take in the view. The narrow cobblestone streets are a stark contrast to the broad boardwalks along the water. During the 1970s Butlers Wharf became home to London’s largest artist colonies. The party ended in 1980, when developers moved in. Today, the wharf is lined with various shops and restaurants, which certainly make good use of their waterside location. (London Bridge.)

London Aquarium. As aquariums go, this is a small fish in a big pond, but it’s the only one in London. The main attractions are dual three-story ocean tanks—one holds Atlantic fish and the other Pacific fish, including sharks. Children can pet rays and fish at the two petting tanks, if they don’t mind getting wet. (County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd. Westminster or Waterloo. ☎ 7967 8000; www.londonaquarium.co.uk. Open daily 10am-6pm, in Aug. until 7pm; last admission 5pm. Wheelchair-accessible. £13.25, concessions £11.25, children under 14 £9.75, families of 4 £44.)

Dalí Universe. With over 500 works of art, this gallery earns its grandiose name. The entrance is a bizarre, blacked-out tunnel with cutout images of the artist and quotations designed to exhibit the artist’s notorious and fabulous craziness. Almost all the works in this collection are multiple-run prints, castings, or reproductions. There are a few originals. Only real Dalí enthusiasts will find it worth it. However, if famous melting watches and lithographs are your thing, you won’t be disappointed. Don’t miss Dalí’s custom-designed sofa shaped like Mae West’s lips, although you can’t sit on it. A smaller but better set of Dalís are viewable for free in the Tate Modern . (Riverside Building, County Hall. Waterloo. ☎ 0870 744 7485; www.daliuniverse.com. Open daily 10am-6:30pm, last entry 5:30pm. Wheelchair-accessible. £12, concessions £10, families £30. Audio tours £2.50. AmEx/MC/V.)