London South London

Clapham, just to the east, has more old-time charm than Brixton, though it too is on the up and up. Attractive High Street is packed with even more elite bars and clubs, as well as eateries that run the gamut from old to new and from cheap to pricey. At the end of the High Street lie the rolling fields of Clapham Common, a popular place for athletes and locals.

In the south, Dulwich could hardly offer a greater contrast; not much has changed in this old-money mecca in about four centuries. South London’s snobbiest suburb, Dulwich bumbled along as an unremarkable country village until 1605, when Elizabethan actor Edward Alleyn bought a local manor; wealth and sprawling estates soon followed. His legacy lives on in the College of God’s Gift, established according to his will for the education of 12 poor children. The original Old College buildings, including the chapel where Alleyn is buried, still stand close to Dulwich Picture Gallery. Dulwich College, now with 1600 very wealthy pupils, has since moved south to a palatial 19th-century site on College Road, where it reaps benefits by holding the last tollgate in London. (Rail: North or West Dulwich.)

DULWICH PARK. Created in 1890 as fields and farmland, this expansive park was once the stomping grounds of Queen Mary, who was especially fond of the American garden. Thanks to its 2006 renovation, the park’s 79 acres hold a number of soccer fields, tennis courts, bowling greens, playgrounds, cafes, and gardens. It also hosts regular activities and organized walks; check the website for more details. (Entrances on College Rd., Dulwich Common, and Court Ln. Brixton, then bus #P4 to College Rd. Rail: North or West Dulwich. ☎020 7525 2000; www.southwark.gov.uk.)

BROCKWELL PARK. This massive stretch of rolling grass sprinkled with leafy trees is perfect for joggers, unleashed dogs, and those looking to get away from the crowded London streets. Just past the gated entrance is the popular Brockwell Lido, a 1930s outdoor swimming pool often described as “London’s beach.” Every year from 2001 to 2004, the park hosted the infamous, if controversial, Cannabis Festival (also known as Jay Day), when police allowed public smoking of cannabis, but the borough of Lambeth has since killed the buzz. The park also boasts tennis courts, a children’s playground, miles of walking paths, a BMX track, and a small cafe at its summit, from which you can catch a glimpse of the London Eye. It is currently undergoing a large renovation project that will bring even more greenery. (Between Tulse Hill and Dulwich Rd. From Brixton, turn left out of the station, bear left at the fork onto Effra Rd., walk about 10min., then turn left again onto Brixton Water Lane. The entrance is on the right. www.brockwellpark.com. Open daily 7:30am-dusk.)

CLAPHAM COMMON. The Common comprises over 200 acres of grassland shaped in a triangle and situated between Clapham, Battersea, and Balham. Apart from usual park offerings, the Common boasts three ponds, in two of which you can fish. The Common’s most notable feature is its 100-year-old bandstand, which has played host to numerous open-air concerts and festivals. (Between Clapham Common North Side Rd. and Clapham Common South Side Rd.; from Clapham North, turn left out of the station and walk about 10min. down Clapham High St.)