Mayfair And St. James’S

The designer boutiques and prestigious gentlemen’s clubs of Mayfair and St. James’s are inaccessible to most budget-minded tourists, but the streets are perfect for afternoon strolls and window shopping. From the small alleys of Shepherd’s Market to the stately vista of Waterloo Place, Mayfair and St. James’s are home to some of London’s most impressive views, as well as some of the best people watching.

 Trafalgar Square. In 1820, John Nash laid out the first plans for Trafalgar, but it took almost 50 years for London’s largest traffic roundabout to take on its current appearance. Nelson’s Column arrived in 1843, and in 1867 the larger-than-life lions were enthroned at the base. The square is named in commemoration of the victory over Napoleon’s navy at Trafalgar, considered England’s greatest naval hour. From the Chartist rallies of 1848 to the anti-apartheid vigils held outside South Africa House to London’s largest protest over the war in Iraq in 2003, Trafalgar has traditionally been a site for public rallies and protest movements. It is currently a favorite gathering place for Londoners. The masses congregate here on New Year’s Eve to ring in midnight with the chimes of Big Ben, breaking the ice in the frozen fountains before the clock strikes midnight as an annual tradition. Every December since the end of WWII, the square has hosted a giant Christmas tree, provided by Norway as thanks for British assistance against the Nazis.

The 51m granite Nelson’s Column towering over the square was, until recently, one of the world’s tallest displays of decades-old pigeon droppings. Now, thanks to a cleanup sponsored by the Mayor, this monument to naval hero Lord Nelson sparkles once again. The four relief panels at the column’s base were cast from captured French and Spanish cannons and commemorate Nelson’s victories at Cape St. Vincent, Copenhagen, the Nile, and Trafalgar.

Nelson is not the only national hero to preside over the square. To prove that the English are not sore losers, George Washington keeps watch in the east corner. Upon leaving England, Washington vowed never to set foot on English soil again, so the small plot of soil underneath his statue was brought over from the US. The statue of George IV in the northeastern corner was originally intended to top the Marble Arch but never made it. A sculpture of William IV was supposed to reign over the eastern corner, but was never built due to funding problems. Since 1999, modern pieces have occupied the corner, such as a World-Cup inspired wax figure of David Beckham. It now features a modern sculpture by Marc Quinn, unveiled in 2005. South of the square, a rare equestrian monument to Charles I stands on the site of the original Charing Cross. The statue escaped Cromwell’s wrath when John Rivett bought it “for scrap” and did a roaring trade in souvenirs supposedly made from the figure. It was, in fact, hidden and later sold at a tidy profit to Charles II who re-erected it in 1633. (Charing Cross or Leicester Sq.)

Carlton House Terrace And Waterloo Place. Sweeping down from Piccadilly Circus, Regent St. comes to an abrupt halt at Waterloo Place; steps lead to the Mall. Regent St. was built to be a triumphal route leading to the Prince Regent’s residence at Carlton House, but by the time it was finished, the prince had become King George IV, moved on to Buckingham Palace, and had his old house pulled down. The aging royal architect John Nash was recommissioned to build something quickly on the site; the result was Carlton House Terrace, a pair of imposing classical buildings that dominate the north side of the Mall and currently house the Institute of Contemporary Arts. Between the two Carlton House Terrace buildings, a statue of King Edward VII is dwarfed by a vast column topped with the “Grand Old” Duke of York, who docked his men’s salaries in order to pay for the monument. The column’s great height led many of the Duke’s contemporaries to joke that he should climb it in order to flee his equally imposing debts. Despite the jokes, the sweep of Waterloo Place is stately and impressive. (Piccadilly Circus.)

St. James’S Palace. Built in 1536 over the remains of a leper hospital, St. James’s is London’s only remaining purpose-built palace; even Buckingham Palace was a rough-and-ready conversion of a Duke’s house. Ever since Henry VIII chose St. James’s Palace to be the site of the royal court—foreign ambassadors to Britain are still officially called “Ambassadors to the Court of St. James”—this has been London’s most aristocratic address. Current occupants include Prince Charles; the late Queen Mum lived in neighboring Clarence House. The massive gateway on St. James’s St. is one of the few surviving remnants of the original edifice; outside, a pair of bearskin-hatted guards stomp and turn in perfect unison. As the official home of the Crown, royal proclamations are issued every Friday from the balcony in the interior Friary Court, which is also where the accession of a new monarch is first announced. However, the only part of the Palace usually accessible is the Chapel Royal, open for Sunday services from October to Easter at 8:30 and 11:15am. From Easter to July, services are held in Queen’s Chapel, across Marlborough Rd. from the Palace, which was built in the 17th century for the marriage of then-prince Charles I. ( Green Park.)

St. James’S Church, Piccadilly. Poet William Blake was baptized in this church, the exterior of which is now darkened from the soot of London’s mills. The current structure is largely a post-WWII reconstruction of what Wren considered his greatest parish church; the original wooden flowers, garlands, and cherubs by master carver Grinling Gibbons escaped the Blitz. The churchyard is home to a tourist-oriented craft market which sells antiques on Tuesdays, as well as a cafe. (Enter at 197 Piccadilly or on Jermyn St. Piccadilly Circus or Green Park. ☎ 7734 4511; www.st-james-piccadilly.org. Church open M-Sa 9am-6:30pm, Su 1-4:30pm. Market open Tu 8am-6pm, W-Sa 10am-6pm. Cafe open M-F 7am-7:30pm, Sa 9am-7:30pm, Su 9am-6:30pm. Church admission free.)

Shepherd Market. This pedestrian area on the southern border of St. James’s occupies the site of the original May Fair that gave the neighborhood its name. In 1706, the infamously raucous fair was closed until Edward Shepherd developed the area as a market later in the century. Today the 18th-century buildings house pubs, restaurants, shops, and art galleries. (Hyde Park Corner or Green Park.)

Grosvenor Square. One of the largest squares in central London, Grosvenor has gradually evolved into a North American diplomatic enclave, alongside its more popular role as a warm-weather picnic spot. John Adams lived at No. 9 while serving as the first US ambassador to England in 1785. A century and a half later, Eisenhower established his wartime headquarters at No. 20. The eastern end of the square houses a memorial to the victims of September 11. (Bond St. or Marble Arch.)

Spencer House. At the end of a quiet, unassuming street near St. James’s Palace lies the entrance to one of the finest 18th-century townhouses left in London. The home was built by the first Earl Spencer, ancestor of Princess Diana. The Spencer family kept the house as their London residence until 1926, after which it was used by the British intelligence service. Many of the finest rooms have been recently restored and opened to the public only on Sundays. Though the required tour is a bit long and overly detailed, the interiors are stunning and provide an excellent glimpse into 18th-century society as well as the early history of the Spencer family. (Enter at 27 St. James Place. Green Park. ☎ 7514 1958; Open Su 10:30am-5:30pm. £9, students £7.)