London North London

Hampstead Heath, Hampstead (020 7332 3030) Hampstead Heath was initially much smaller than its present 800 acres. After Sir Thomas Maryon Wilson tried to develop and sell off the Heath in the early 19th century, the public began to fight for it, culminating in an Act of Parliament in 1872 that declared the Heath open to the public forever. Now it sprawls gloriously in the heart of Hampstead. The Hill Gardens are in the southwest corner of the Heath just off North End Ave. The Hill House was owned by Lord Leverhulme (of Lever Soap), and he modified the surrounding landscapes to create the beautiful, tamer Hill Gardens. A pergola presides over the gardens, its lattice work is entwined with roses, and painters often station themselves around the gardens and pergola. The view through its Georgian columns is best enjoyed around sunset. Parliament Hill is one of the higher points in London, offering those willing to climb its deceptively steep sides a glorious reminder that they aren't in the middle of rural England, but are, in fact, only four miles from London proper. Parliament Hill likely derives its name from its use as a point of defense for Parliament loyalists during the English Civil War, but legend has it that Guy Fawkes watched Parliament from the hill as he waited for it to explode. A surfeit of benches strangle the opening that yields the view, but if you stand on one you can keep everyone irritated and your picture intact. Locals say that "gangs of teenagers" roam the Heath at night, so it’s best to visit during the day. Bus #210 will drop you at the north of the Heath, from which you can access Kenwood House and work your way southeast towards Parliament Hill. Alternatively, you can get off at Hampstead and turn right onto Heath St., up North End Way, left onto Inverforth Close and left onto a path will take you to the hill gardens. Bus #214 allows easy access to Parliament Hill. Heath open 24hr. Hill Garden open daily May 24-Aug 1 8:30am-8:30pm; Aug 2-May 23 8:30am-1hr. before sunset. Wheelchair access.

Kenwood House, Hampstead Ln. ( 020 8348 1286; www.english-heritage.org.uk ) The Kenwood House was the primary residence of Lord Iveagh, a Barrister and Lord Chief Justice who lived in the house during the 18th century. It currently houses his fabulous art collection, and stands as a representation of an upper-class house from that era. Each room is equipped with laminated sheets explaining the function, decor, and art of the space. The Iveagh Bequest fills the house with paintings that are essentially odes to London of yore. Views of the city from the Heath, like Crone's "View of London from Highgate," and an early Turner depicting, per usual, a nautical subject touch upon themes common to the bequest—typical British life. Many come to see Rembrandt's "Portrait of the Artist" and Vermeer's "The Guitar Player." The Suffolk Collection, composed mainly of portraits, is on semi-permanent exhibition on the first floor (second floor, for American readers). Bus #210 will stop on Hampstead Ln. Only ground floor is wheelchair-accessible. Free. Booklets £4. Open daily 11:30am-4pm. Last entry 3:50pm. Wheelchair access.

Keats's House, Keats Grove (020 7332 3868; www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/keatshousehampstead ) John Keats lived with his friend Charles Brown in the house from 1818-1820, right before his death. It is also where he fell in love with Fanny Browne, and where he composed some of his famous poems such as "Ode to a Nightingale." Meant more for die-hard fans, the museum doesn't offer much beyond a few sheets in each room, some of which feature angst-ridden love letters, famous poems, and explanations of the history of the house and the functions of the rooms. This museum has recreated the rooms in all their Regency-inspired glory, though, so the site is as much about the building as it is the writing. Still, if you want to be a writer, and you believe in osmosis, this is the place for you. Hampstead Heath. Left onto South End Rd., follow it until it hits Keats Grove. Only ground floor is wheelchair-accessible. English audio tour free. £5, concessions £3, under 16 free. Free room guide. Open Apr 6-Oct 31 T-Su 1-5pm; Nov 1-Easter F-Su 1-5pm. Check website for details. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access.