London Hampstead, Highgate, And Golders Green

HAMPSTEAD HEATH. Hampstead Heath is one of the last remaining traditional commons in England, open to all since at least 1312—thanks to the local residents, who successfully fought off attempts to develop it in the 19th century. Since Parliament declared in 1871 that the Heath should remain “forever open, un-enclosed, and un-built-upon,” it has grown from 336 to 804 acres. Its imposing size can be daunting, but just spending a few hours enjoying the expansive, meadow-like green can be a lovely break from the city. Unlike so many other London parks, the Heath is not composed of manicured gardens and paths but rather of wild, spontaneous growth tumbling over rolling pastures and forested groves—perfect for picnicking. Dirt paths through the Heath are not well marked, but maps abound on the premise. On public holidays in spring and summer, fun fairs are held at South End Green and on the south side of Spaniards Rd. (Hampstead. Rail: Hampstead Heath. Bus #210. Wheelchair-accessible. Open 24hr.)

HILL GARDEN. In this secret garden of sorts, a raised pergola bedecked in flowers of all sorts, passes over the former kitchen gardens of Lord Leverhulme’s (founder of Lever Soap) mansion. The walkway was built to connect the mansion to his pleasure gardens. Sunsets here are spectacular. (In Hampstead Heath; take North End Way to Inverforth Close. Open daily 8:30am-1hr. before sunset.)

PARLIAMENT HILL. Legend claims that Guy Fawkes and his accomplices planned to watch their destruction of Parliament from atop Parliament Hill in 1605, but things didn’t work out that way. The hike to the top takes you to sprawling fields and a vista that stretches to Westminster and beyond. At the foot of the hill, a series of ponds marks the final gasp of the River Westbourne before it vanishes into the Thames. The brave can swim for free in the waters of the single-sex bathing ponds, where some bathers choose to go nude. (The southeastern part of the Heath; enter off of Downshire Rd. Rail: Gospel Oak or Hampstead Heath.)

GOLDERS GREEN CREMATORIUM. Though visiting a crematorium may seem grim, don’t let the Neo-Romanesque chapel buildings scare you. Behind them lie several acres of picturesque, beautifully maintained gardens; paths wander through leafy groves, water gardens, and open lawns. Each flower serves as a living grave for an individual; luminaries who came to rest here include T. S. Eliot, H. G. Wells, Peter Sellers, and five prime ministers. Sigmund Freud’s ashes, in his favorite Greek vase, are locked in the Ernest George Columbarium; ask an attendant to let you in on weekdays. (From Golders Green, turn right out of the exit, follow Finchley Rd. under the bridge, and continue for 5min. before turning right on Hoope Ln.; entrance is on the right. ☎020 8455 2374. Wheelchair-accessible. Grounds open daily in summer 9am-6pm; in winter 9am-4pm. Chapel and Hall of Memory open daily 9am-4pm. Free.)

TWO WILLOW ROAD. Resembling an unimposing 1950s-style mini-block, Two Willow Road was actually built in 1939 as the avant-garde home of architect Ernö Goldfinger (Ian Fleming hated the design so much he named a James Bond villain after him). It stands apart quite visibly from the quaint Victorian facades that line the rest of the street. With clothes still in their plastic dry-cleaning sleeves, everything looks as if the family had just left. Family photos on the mantelpiece sit next to works of art by Max Ernst, Marchel Duchamp, Man Ray, and Goldfinger’s wife, Ursula Blackwell. (15min. walk from Hampstead; the best way is to take Hampstead High St. to Downshire Rd. and take a left. ☎020 7435 6166. Open Apr.-Oct. Th-F noon-5pm, Sa 11am-5pm. Timed ticket and 1hr. guided tours available Th-F at noon, 1, 2pm; Sa 11am, noon, 1, 2pm. £5.30, children £2.80, families £13.)

KEATS HOUSE. The great Romantic poet John Keats produced some of his last and finest work, including “Ode to a Nightingale” in this house. Both the gardens and the house are lovely, although few original furnishings remain. A sparse recreation of its 1820 appearance (recently renovated in 2009), the current space is distinguished due to its literary history. Inside, copies of Keats’s poems lie scattered about the well-kept rooms, together with Keats memorabilia and informative biographical displays. (Keats Grove. Hampstead. ☎020 7435 2062; www.keatshouse.org.uk. Partially wheelchair-accessible. Closed as of summer 2009; call ahead. )