The 60km of well-tended slopes that run from Dijon to the tiny village of Santenay, 20km south of Beaune, have nurtured grapes since 500 BC. Limestone-laced soil, perfect rainfall rates, and ample sunshine make the region a viticulturist’s dream—not to mention some of the world’s best real estate. The Côte d’Or is divided into two regions, which by law can only bottle and sell wine from two kinds of grapes: the red pinot noir and the white Chardonnay. The Côte de Nuits, stretching south from Dijon through Nuits-St-Georges to the village of Corgoloin, is known for subtle, sophisticated reds. The Côte de Beaune, farther south, is known particularly for its white wines.
The most intimate way to see the vineyards near either Beaune or Dijon is to bike the Route des Grands Crus; bike-rental shops in both cities arrange tours of varying lengths. From downtown Dijon, follow the signs toward Beaune to highway N74 and follow signs for the Côte d’Or. Renting a car in Dijon or Beaune (from €60 per day) is the fastest way to the grapes. TRANSCO buses (☎03 80 42 11 00) run frequently from Dijon to Beaune (1hr.; M-Sa 7 per day, Su 3 per day; €6.30) and stop at all the great names in between, including Gevrey-Chambertin (30min., 19 per day, €1.80). Many buses are wheelchair-accessible. Call ahead or visit the Dijon or Beaune bus stations for schedules.
Lodging on the Côte is expensive: reserving a room at one of the many village chambres d’hôtes is usually the cheapest option, and Dijon is the cheapest base. The tourist offices in Beaune and Gevrey-Chambertin have comprehensive lists of bed and breakfasts, in addition to the Bourgogne Hôtes guide, which lists almost every hotel and campsite in the region. In Gevrey-Chambertin, bunk at Marchands
The city traffic on this flat, 60km road fades out a few kilometers outside Dijon, as the route winds through Chenove, Marsannay-la-Côte, Couchey, Fixin, Brochon, and Gevrey-Chambertin—each village more enchanting than the one before. The countryside’s vast vineyards are speckled with church spires and fields of flowers. Family-owned caves (wine cellars) along the route offer free dégustations, but most businesses will expect you to buy something.
Only 20min. by bike from Dijon, Marsannay-la-Côte (mahr-sah-nay-lah-koht), known as the “door to the Côte d’Or,” is the only town on the Côte that produces rosé wines in addition to reds and whites. The peaceful village feels a world away from urban Dijon—and the Defense Association for the Quality of Life in Marsannay-la-Côte has been campaigning heavily to keep it that way. To sample the local specialties, try the Château de Marsannay, which hosts a tour of its grounds followed by a candlelit wine dégustation in the deep caves. Sommeliers (wine stewards) take visitors through this personalized tasting of the château’s wines—including a rosé and a premier cru red. (☎03 80 51 71 11; chateau.marsannay@kriter.com. Open Apr.-Oct. daily 10am-noon and 2-6:30pm; Nov.-Mar. M-Sa 10am-noon and 2-6:30pm. 1hr. tours €10; includes dégustation. Wines for purchase from €6.) To reach the château from Dijon, follow signs for Marsannay-la-Côte and the château or take Divia bus #15 (dir.: Marsannay Château) to the last stop. The Marsannay-la-Côte tourist office, 41 rue de Mazy, has a list of winemakers in the region and houses a museum that offers a taste of the life of a 19th-century winemaker. (☎03 80 52 27 73; www.ot-marsannay.com. Open June-Sept. M-Sa 9am-12:30pm and 2-6:30pm, Su 9am-1pm; Oct. and Mar.-May M-F 9:30am-12:30pm and 2-6pm, Sa 9am-12:30pm and 2-5:30pm; Nov.-Feb. M-F 9am-12:30pm and 2-6pm, Sa 9am-12:30pm and 2-5:30pm.)
Perhaps the finest vineyards in all of France surround Gevrey-Chambertin (jhay-vree-sham-bayr-tehn), 11km south of Dijon, home to nine of Burgundy’s 33 grands crus (best grown). The Château de Gevrey-Chambertin is the perfect place to unwind after a long bike ride. Its gracious proprietors will take you through their family-owned 10th-century château, which was built to protect the wine and villagers (in that order) and was later handed over to the monks of Cluny in the 13th century. The monks turned the château’s winemaking into a tradition, and workers still use their original methods. The house is filled with old frescoes and 17th-century furniture. The tour ends with an informative 3D animation detailing the château’s evolution over time. (☎03 80 51 84 85; www.chateau-de-gevrey-chambertin.com. Open Mar.-Oct. Sa-Su 10am-noon and 2-6pm. Tours in English by request. Tours €6, ages 7-11 €3, under 7 free; includes dégustation. ) Wine lovers should not miss the Festival Musical des Grands Crus de Bourgogne, held on weekends in September, which pairs tastings of just-harvested vintages with classical music. Student tickets to combined tastings and shows are as low as €8. Ask the tourist office for more info.
Getting to Gevrey-Chambertin from Dijon by bike takes about an hour; by foot, it’s a 2hr. hike. To get to the château from the bus stop, go left up the hill and take your next right. The Gevrey-Chambertin tourist office, 1 rue Gaston Roupnel, offers a free map with a list of vineyards, Internet access (€1 per 15min.), and tours and tastings on Fridays from June through August. (2hr. tour with lunch €8, under 16 €4. 2hr. tour €4, ages 12-16 €2.50, under 12 free. Reservations recommended for lunch tours. Call the tourist office for times.) Many vineyards require reservations for tours; contact the tourist office for details. (☎03 80 34 38 40. Open May-Sept. M-F 9:30am-12:15pm and 1:30-6pm, Sa 9:30am-12:30pm and 1:30-5:30pm, Su 10am-12:30pm and 1:30-4pm; Oct.-Apr. M-Sa 9:30am-12:30pm and 1:30-5:30pm.)
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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