Overview
Accommodations
Food
Sights And Activities
Museums
Entertainment
Shopping
Nightlife
Daytrips
Gay and Lesbian London
Beyond Tourism
The Cotswolds have deviated little from their etymological roots: “Cotswolds” means “sheep enclosures in rolling hillsides.” Despite the rather sleepy moniker, the Cotswolds are filled with rich history and traditions (like cheese-rolling) that date back to Roman and Saxon times. The country here offers the perfect break from the concrete and crowds of London.
Trains run from London (1hr., every 1-2hr., £30) via Oxford (30min., £9.50) to Moreton-in-Marsh Station (open M-Sa 5:45am-7:15pm, Su 5:45am-12:30pm). Trains also run from London Paddington (2hr., every hr., £20) to Cam and Dursley Station (3 mi. from Slimbridge, unstaffed) in the Southern Cotswolds. It’s easier to reach the Cotswolds by bus. The Cheltenham TIC’s free Getting There details service between the town and 27 destinations. The free Explore the Cotswolds by Public Transport, available at most TICs, lists routes for major services between villages and provides basic information on frequency. Consult the TIC for departure times, and note that schedules vary depending on the day of the week. Traveline (☎0870 608 2608) is a true lifeline for those traveling by public transport, especially in the Cotswolds, where a journey from one small village to another may require a few transfers.
The easiest way to explore is by car, but the best way to experience the Cotswolds is on foot or by bike. The Toy Shop, on High St. in Moreton-in-Marsh, offers bike rentals with a lock, map, and route suggestions. (☎01608 650 756. £12 per half day, £14 per full day. Credit card deposit. Open M and W-Sa 9am-1pm and 2-5pm.) The YHA in Stow-on-the-Wold also rents bikes with a lock and helmet. (☎01451 830 497. Open daily 8-10am and 5-10pm. £6 per half day, £9.50 per full day.) Taxis are a convenient, if expensive, way of getting to areas inaccessible by public transportation. TICs have lists of companies serving their area: “K” Cars (☎01451 822 578 or 07929 360 712) is based in Bourton-on-the-Water, and Cotswold Taxis (☎07710 117 471) operates from Moreton-in-Marsh.
The Cotswolds lie mostly in Gloucestershire, bound by Stratford-upon-Avon in the north, Oxford in the east, Cheltenham in the west, and Bath in the south. The northern Cotswolds house more postcard-worthy villages and impressive hills, hence more visitors and higher B&B prices. The range is not grandiose—the average Cotswold hill reaches only 600 ft.—but the rolling hills make hiking and biking tough. The best bases, transport- and provision-wise, from which to explore are Cirencester, Gloucester, Moreton-in-Marsh, and Stow-on-the-Wold.
The Cotswold Way Handbook and Accommodation List (£2) details B&Bs, which usually lie on convenient roads a short walk from small villages. The Cotswolds Accommodation Guide (50p) lists B&Bs in or near larger towns. Expect to pay £30-55 per night for a single room unless you stay at one of the YHA hostels. YHA Stow-on-the-Wold , The Square, is a 16th-century building beside the TIC. The hostel offers ensuite rooms with wood bunks and village views. (☎01451 830 497. Family room with toys, kitchen, and lounge. Laundry available. Reception daily 8-10am and 5-10pm. Lockout 10am-5pm. Curfew 11pm. Book in advance, especially in the summer. Dorms £15, under 18 £12. Add £3 for nonmembers. MC/V.) The 56-bed YHA Slimbridge , Shepherd’s Patch, off the A38 and the M5, has spacious common areas and a large duck pond behind the building. The nearest train station (Cam and Dursley) is 3 mi. away. It’s easier to take Bus #91 from Gloucester to the Slimbridge Crossroads roundabout and walk 2 mi. (☎08707 706 036. Laundry £2.60. Reception daily 7:15-10am and 5-11pm. Curfew 11pm. Open daily mid-July to early Sept.; F-Sa Oct.-Nov. and Jan. to mid-July. Dorms £11, under 18 £8; twins £26; families £38-69. MC/V.) There are several campsites close to Cheltenham, but there are also convenient places to rough it within the Cotswolds. Try Fosseway Farm . Camping and Caravanning in Gloucestershire and the Cotswolds, free at local TICs, lists more options.
For centuries, travelers have walked the well-worn Cotswolds footpaths from village to village. Tranquil hillsides and the allure of pubs with local brews make moving at a pace beyond three or four villages per day inadvisable. The free Cotswold Events booklet, available at TICs, lists music festivals, antique markets, woolsack races, and cheese-rolling events.
The TIC stocks a variety of walking and cycling guides. The Cotswold Map and Guidebook in One (£5) is good for planning bike routes and short hikes. Hikers planning more than a short stroll should use the Ordinance Survey Outdoor Leisure Map #45 (1:25,000; £7), which provides topographic information and highlights nearly all public footpaths. The Cotswolds Voluntary Warden Service (☎01451 862 000) leads free guided walks, some with themes (1-7hr.). All walks are listed on its website (www.cotswoldsaonb.com) and in the Programme Guide section of the biannual Cotswold LION (free at the TIC).
Long-distance hikers can choose from a handful of trails. The extensive Cotswold Way spans just over 100 mi. from Bath to Chipping Campden, has few steep climbs, and can be done in a week. The trail passes through pastures and the remains of ancient settlements. Pockmarks and gravel make certain sections unsuitable for biking or horseback riding. Consult the Cotswold Way National Trail Office (☎01453 827 004) for details. The Oxfordshire Way (65 mi.) runs between the popular Bourton-on-the-Water and Henley-on-Thames, site of the famed Henley Royal Regatta. Amble through pastures on your way from Bourton-on-the-Water to Lower and Upper Slaughter along the Warden’s Way, a half-day hike. Adventurous souls can continue to Winchcombe. The Thames Path Walk starts on the western edge of the Cotswolds in Lechlade and follows the Thames 184 mi. to Kingston, near London. The section from the Cotswolds to Oxford is low-impact and particularly peaceful. The Severn Way runs for 210 mi. from Plynlimon in Wales to Bristol along the River Severn and runs along the western border of the Cotswolds. Contact the National Trails Office (☎01865 810 224) for details. Local roads are perfect for biking—rolling hills welcome both casual and hardy cyclers. Even though the routes are slightly rut-riddled, parts of the Oxfordshire Way are hospitable to cyclists. TICs in all towns have a Cotswolds cycling route packet (£3) that outlines five different routes between villages. They also have free cycling guides detailing trails from 16-30 mi.
Winchcombe. A tiny village 7 mi. north of Cheltenham, Winchcombe is home to the secluded Sudeley Castle, a 10min. walk from the town center. Lord and Lady Ashcombe have filled the castle with Tudor memorabilia. The castle also has 14 acres of prize-winning gardens, all of which offer stunning views of the surrounding hills. The chapel contains the tomb of Henry VIII’s Queen number six, Katherine Parr. In summer, Sudeley also holds jousting tournaments and Shakespeare under the stars. (☎01242 602 308; www.sudeleycastle.co.uk. Castle open daily Mar.-Oct. 11am-5pm. Last admission 4:30pm. Gardens open daily Mar.-Oct. 10:30am-5:30pm. Castle and gardens £7.20, children £4.20, concessions £6.20. Gardens only £5.50/3.25/4.50. £1 surcharge Su May-Aug.) Belas Knap, a 4000-year-old burial mound, stands 1 mi. southwest of Sudeley Castle. It is accessible from the Cotswold Way or via a scenic 2hr. walk from Winchcombe. The Winchcombe TIC has a free pamphlet with directions.
Bourton-On-The-Water. Known as the most beautiful village in the Cotswolds, Bourton-on-the-Water feels like an old-fashioned town. The footbridge-straddled River Windrush runs along the main street, giving Bourton the moniker “Venice of the Cotswolds.” The beauty and location of Bourton has made it a popular destination, so expect more tourist traps here than in other villages. The Oxford Way trailhead is here, along with a handful of other trails, including the Warden’s, Heart of England, Windrush, and Gloucestershire Ways. For a taste of life as a giant, follow signs to The Model Village, a scale model of Bourton built in 1937. (Open daily in summer 10am-5:45pm; in winter 10am-4pm. £2.75, concessions £2.25-2.50.) Birdland, on Rissington Rd., has a motley crew of winged creatures from neon pink flamingoes to penguins. (☎820 480; www.birdland.co.uk. Open daily Apr.-Oct. 10am-6pm; Nov.-Mar. 10am-4pm. Last admission 1hr. before close. £5.20, seniors £4.20, children £3, families £15.) Next door, the Dragonfly maze is the best place to get lost in the Cotswolds. An intricate hedge maze contains a hidden chamber where you must solve a puzzle—we know the answer, but telling you would ruin the fun, wouldn’t it? (Open daily 10am-5:30pm, weather permitting. £2.50.)
Stow-On-The-Wold. Inns and taverns crowd Market Sq. of this self-proclaimed “Heart of the Cotswolds.” A traditional farmers’ market takes place on the second Thursday of every month in the Market Square. (☎01453 758 060. Open 9am-2pm.) Three miles downhill, off the A424, Donnington Trout Farm lets visitors fish, feed, and eat the trout. (☎01451 830 873. Open Apr.-Oct. daily 10am-5:30pm; Nov.-Mar. Tu-Su 10am-5pm.) The YHA hostel , a stone house on High St. (☎01451 831 210. Singles £32-35; doubles £45-50. Cash only.)
Moreton-In-Marsh. With a train station, frequent bus service, and a bike shop, Moreton is a convenient base from which to explore the north. The village has typical Cotswolds charm but holds few attractions. Two miles west on A44 is Batsford Arboretum, with 56 acres of waterfalls, a Japanese rest house, and more than 1600 species of trees. (☎01386 701 441; www.batsarb.co.uk. Open Feb. to mid-Nov. daily 10am-5pm; mid-Nov. to Jan. Sa-Su 10am-4pm. £6, children £2, concessions £5.) Every Tuesday, High St. plays host to the largest open-air market in the region. Warwick House B&B , London Rd., has an energetic owner and a host of perks, including four-poster beds, Wi-Fi, and an ample breakfast. Follow A44 east out of town toward Oxford for 10min.; the hostel is on the left. (☎01608 650 773; www.snoozeandsizzle.com. Free pickup from station. £30-35 per person. Cash only.) Blue Cedar House , Stow Rd., 5min. out of Moreton-in-Marsh toward Stow-on-the-Wold. (☎01608 650 503. Camper’s breakfast £3.50. Caravans and tents £12. Electricity available. MC/V.) Enjoy tea and lunch at Tilly’s Tea Room , High St., which has a host of homemade cakes and jams to enjoy in their garden. (☎01608 650 000. Tea and scone £4.35. Cash only.)
Broadway. Broadway lives up to its name, with a long, wide High St. bordered by pubs and specialty shops. Broadway Tower, a 30-40min. uphill hike, inspired the likes of poet Dante Gabriel Rossetti and affords an excellent view of 12 counties. Take Johnson Bus #21/22 from the High St. to Broadway Tower Park (M-Sa 4 per day, 10min.). Alternatively, from High St., follow the Cotswold Way uphill out of town. (☎01386 852 390. Open Apr.-Oct. daily 10:30am-5pm; Nov.-Mar. Sa-Su 11am-3pm, weather permitting. £3.80, children £2.50, families £10, concessions £3.) Snowshill Manor, 2 mi. southwest of Broadway, was once home to a collector of everything and anything. It now houses about 20,000 knick-knacks. (☎01386 852 410. Open late Mar.-Apr. M-Th and Su noon-5pm; May-Oct. M-W and Su noon-5pm. £7.30, children £3.65.) Past Snowshill Manor, Snowshill Lavender Farm lets you wander through the sweet-smelling lavender fields and watch the distillation process. (☎01386 854 821; www.snowshill-lavender.co.uk. Open from Good Friday through summer W-Su 11am-5pm. £2.50.)
Chipping Campden. Years ago, quiet Chipping Campden was the capital of the Cotswolds’ wool trade (“chipping” means “market”). Market Hall, in the middle of the main street, attests to 400 years of commerce. The gothic St. James Church, a 5min. walk from High St., houses England’s only full set of 15th-century altar hangings. From the TIC entrance, turn right onto High St. and take the right fork up the hill to the church. (☎01386 840 671; www.stjameschurchcampden.co.uk. Open Mar.-Oct. M-Sa 10am-5pm, Su 2-6pm; Nov. and Feb. M-Sa 11am-4pm, Su 2-4pm; Dec.-Jan. M-Sa 11am-5pm. Suggested donation £1.) Currently, the town is famous for its Cotswold Olympic Games, held in the first week of June. The games take place on Dovers Hill. From St. Catherine’s on High St., turn right onto West End Terr., take the first left, and follow the public footpath 1 mi. uphill. The 2012 Olympic Games in London will coincide with the 400th anniversary of the Cotswold Games. The town has scheduled a massive celebration.
Cirencester. One of the larger towns and regarded as the capital of the region, Cirencester (SI-ruhn-ses-ter) is the site of Corinium, a Roman town founded in AD 49. Although only scraps of the amphitheater remain, the Corinium Museum, Park St., has a formidable collection of Roman mosaics and relics from the town’s past as well as exhibits on the region’s Anglo-Saxon and wool-producing history. (☎01285 655 611. Open M-Sa 10am-5pm, Su 2-5pm. £4, concessions £2-3.) Cirencester’s Parish Church of St. John the Baptist is Gloucestershire’s largest “wool church.” The church is home to a cup made for Anne Boleyn in 1535. (☎01285 659 317. Open M-Sa 9:30am-5pm, Su 2:15-5pm. 3 services per day. Grounds close 9pm. Donation requested.) The world’s highest evergreen bounds Lord Bathurst’s mansion at the top of Park St. Bear right and make a left on Cecily Hill to enter the 3000-acre Cirencester Park, whose stately central aisle was designed by Alexander Pope. Alexcars (☎01285 653 985) Bus A1 runs to the arboretum from Cirencester on Saturdays in summer (40min., Apr.-Sept. Sa 2 per day, £3 round-trip). Otherwise, take Bus A1 to Tetbury (45min., M-F 7 per day, £1.70) and transfer to Stagecoach Bus #620 or 628 (7min., M-Sa 5 per day, £1.30). An antique market occurs on Fridays in Corn Hall, near the TIC. (☎0171 263 6010. Open 10am-4:30pm.) A cattle market takes place every Tuesday on Tetbury Rd., and a country market every Friday at Brewery Arts, off Castle St. (Open 8:30-11:30am.) A short walk south of town center, Apsley Villa Guest House , 16 Victoria Rd., offers affordable rooms and elegance. (☎01285 653 489. Singles £30; doubles and twins £45. Cash only.)
 |
 |
 |
 |
For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
Facebook
Twitter
You Tube
Foursquare
Newsletter
RSS Feed
