London Hampton Court

Only 12 mi. upriver of central London, Hampton Court is considered part of Greater London, in the London borough of Richmond-upon-Thames. There isn’t much else in the area besides the Hampton Court Palace itself, but the palace and surrounding gardens are definitely worth a visit—give up that day on Oxford St. and head to Hampton Court instead.

The fastest way to reach Hampton Court is to take the train from Waterloo (30min., every 30min.; same-day return £4.90, big discount with Travelcard). The palace is a 5min. walk from the train station. More relaxing, scenic, and slower, boats led by the Westminster Passenger Association (Westminster Pier; Westminster; ☎7930 2062; www.wpsa.co.uk) run from April through October (4hr.; daily 10:30, 11:15am, noon, 2pm; £13.50, round-trip £19.50; children £6.75/9.75; concessions £9/13). Tides may affect schedules; call to confirm. As the trip is long, think about taking a boat one-way and returning by train; or, board at Kew or Richmond instead.

Sights

Hampton Court Palace. Although a monarch hasn’t lived here for 250 years, Hampton Court still exudes regal charm. Cardinal Wolsey built the first palace here in 1514, showing the young Henry VIII how to act the part of a powerful ruler. Henry learned the lesson all too well, confiscating Hampton in 1528 (because Wolsey’s palace was nicer than his) and embarking on a massive building program. In 1689, William and Mary employed Christopher Wren to bring the Court up to date, but less than 50 years later George II abandoned it for good. The palace is divided into six 20min. to 1hr. tour routes, all starting at Clock Court, where you can pick up a program of the day’s events and an audio tour. In Henry VIII’s State Apartments, only the massive Great Hall and exquisite Chapel Royal hint at past magnificence. A costumed guide leads the Henry VIII tour. Below, the Tudor Kitchens offer insight into how Henry ate himself to a 54 in. waist. Predating Henry’s additions, the 16th-century Wolsey Rooms are complemented by Renaissance masterpieces. Wren’s King’s Apartments were restored to their original appearance after a 1986 fire. The Queen’s Apartments weren’t completed until 1734, postponed by Mary II’s death. The Georgian Rooms were created by William Kent for George II’s family. No less impressive are the gardens, with Mantegna’s Triumphs of Caesar paintings tucked away in the Lower Orangery. North of the palace, the Wilderness, a pseudo-natural area earmarked for picnickers, holds the ever-popular maze, planted in 1714. Its small size belies a devilish design. (45min. from Waterloo by train, round-trip £5.60. 3-4hr. by boat; daily 10:30, 11am, noon, 2pm; £13.50, round-trip £19.50; children £6.75/9.75; concessions £9/13. Westminster Passenger Cruises ☎7930 4721; www.thamesriverboats.co.uk. Palace ☎08707 527 777; www.hamptoncourtpalace.org.uk. Open daily late Mar.-late Oct. 10am-6pm; late Oct.-late Mar. 10am-4:30pm. Last admission 45min. before close. Palace and gardens £13, concessions £10.50, children 5-15 free. Admission free for worshippers at Chapel Royal; services Su 11am and 3:30pm. Audio and guided tours included.)

Hampton Court Gardens. In the sunshine (or in the light drizzle), the palace has to compete with the equally lavish gardens. Palace tickets are required for entry to the flower-rich South Gardens, the first of which is the ornate Privy Garden, built for the private enjoyment of William III and now available for public enjoyment. The stunning Pond Gardens are off-limits to visitors, but you can stand at the rail and stare longingly at the posies. Nearby, the giant Great Vine is housed in its own terrace; it is the world’s oldest vine, planted by Lancelot “Capability” Brown sometime between 1768 and 1774. It still produces 500-700 lb. of grapes every year, sold in the shop in late summer and early fall. Down in the neighboring Lower Orangery you’ll find Andrea Mantegna’s series The Triumphs of Caesar (1484-1505). Among the most important works of the Italian Renaissance, the nine paintings are displayed in almost total darkness to protect the fragile colors. The rest of the gardens are open to all. The Home Park stretches beyond the impeccably manicured trees, paths, and fountains of the East Front Gardens. Another popular area here is the Tiltyard Tearoom, where jousting matches used to take place—it’s really a sandwich cafeteria with beautiful seating by the gardens. The palace also hosts the annual Hampton Court Palace Flower Show every July. (Admission to Maze and South Gardens £3.50, children £2.50; other gardens free. Flower show: contact the Royal Horticultural Society. ☎7834 4333; www.rhs.org.uk/hamptoncourt. Call or visit website for ticket details.)