London Richmond

Richmond is where London ends and the countryside begins. Although accessible by Tube, it is a town in its own right. Edward III built the first royal palace here in 1358, but a major fire in 1497 burned it down. The rebuilt palace was called the Shene until 1501, when Henry VII named it after his earldom in Yorkshire. Later destroyed by Cromwell, only the gateway of that palace still remains, but many durable attractions linger. Countless artists set up their easels on the 17th-century terrace to paint the picturesque gardens. Neighboring Twickenham, just across the river, is the well-loved and oft-pummelled home of English rugby.

Richmond is at the end of one of the branches of the District line; the quickest route there is by Tube or Silverlink train (25min.). For a more leisurely, scenic journey, boats make the 2hr. cruise upriver from Westminster. Travelcard holders receive a 33% discount on most riverboat fares—be sure to ask. (Westminster Passenger Association, Westminster Pier. ☎7930 2062; www.wpsa.co.uk. Westminster. Departures mid-Apr. to Sept. daily 10, 10:30am; returning 4, 6pm. Tides may affect schedules; call to confirm. £10.50, round-trip £16.50; children £5.25/8.25; concessions £7/11. MC/V.)

Orientation And Practical Information

Richmond is considered part of Greater London. From Richmond station, turn left on The Quadrant, which becomes George Street and then Hill Street. Turning right from Hill St. on Bridge Road takes you across Richmond Bridge into Twickenham, while bearing left on Hill Rise leads to Richmond Hill and Richmond Park. Running from Hill St. to the river, Whittaker Avenue is home to the Tourist Information Centre, where you can pick up a free map of the town and the surrounding sites. (Old Town Hall, Whittaker Ave. ☎8940 9125; www.visitrichmond.co.uk. Open May-Sept. M-Sa 10am-5pm, Su 10:30am-1:30pm; Oct.-Apr. M-Sa 10am-5pm. Audio tours £4, concessions £2.50.) The post office is on 6a Finkle St. (Postal Code: DL10 4QB.)

Sights

Richmond Park. Along with Hampstead Heath, this is the closest to nature you’ll get while still within the capital. Now the largest city park in Europe, Richmond’s lush and beautiful 2500 acres were first enclosed by Charles I, who in 1637 built a wall around other people’s property and declared it his hunting ground. Large herds of deer still wander about. Heading right along the main footpath from Richmond Gate will bring you to Henry VIII’s Mound, actually a Bronze Age barrow. This is the highest point in the park, and offers a great view: look through a small hole cut in the foliage at the top of the mound for a glimpse of St. Paul’s in the distance. Bertrand Russell grew up in Pembroke Lodge, an 18th-century conversion job by the versatile Sir John Soane that’s now a popular cafe. Deeper in the park, the Isabella Plantation bursts with color in the spring. Make sure to explore some of the smaller footpaths—not only do you have a better chance of spotting the deer, you’re less likely to be run over by cyclists and joggers. (Main gate at the top of Richmond Hill. Bus #371 from Richmond. Park office ☎8948 3209; www.royalparks.org.uk/parks/richmond_park. Open daily Mar.-Sept. 7am-dusk, Oct.-Feb. 7:30am-dusk. Free.)

Royal Botanical Gardens, Kew. In the summer of 2003, UNESCO named the Royal Botanical Gardens a World Heritage site—a privilege shared by many of the historic sights in London. The 250-year-old Royal Botanical Gardens, about an hour’s Tube ride outside of central London, extend with a green English placidity in a 300-acre swath along the Thames. The three conservatories are at the center of the collection. The steamy Victorian Palm House boasts Encephalartos Altensteinii, “The Oldest Pot Plant In The World.” The Princess of Wales Conservatory houses 10 different climate zones, from rainforest to desert, including two devoted entirely to orchids. Low-season visitors will not be disappointed—the Woodland Glade is renowned for displays of autumn color. Close to the Thames in the northern part of the gardens, newly renovated Kew Palace is a modest red-brick affair used by royalty, and which is now open to the public for the first time in 200 years. On the hill behind and to the right of the palace, 17th-century medicinal plants flourish in the stunning Queen’s Garden. (Kew, on the south bank of the Thames. Main entrance and Visitors Centre are at Victoria Gate, nearest the Tube. Go up the white stairs that go above the station tracks, and walk straight down the road. Kew Gardens. ☎8332 5000; www.kew.org. Open Apr.-Aug. M-F 9:30am-6:30pm, Sa-Su 9:30am-7:30pm; Sept.-Oct. daily 9:30am-6pm; Nov.-Jan. daily 9:30am-4:15pm. Last admission 30min. before close. Glasshouses close Apr.-Oct. 5:30pm; Nov.-Feb. 3:45pm. £12.25, concessions £10.25, under 17 free; £10.25 45min. before close. Free 1hr. walking tours daily 11am and 2pm start at Victoria Gate Visitors Centre. “Explorer” hop-on, hop-off shuttle makes 40min. rounds of the gardens; 1st shuttle daily 11am, last 4pm; £3.50, under 17 £1. Free 1hr. “Discovery Bus” tours for mobility-impaired daily 11am and 2pm; booking required; free.)

Ham House. Some way down river of Richmond, Ham House sits in resplendent gardens. William Murray received the house as a reward for being Charles I’s “whipping boy”—he took the punishment whenever the king-to-be misbehaved. Later, it was occupied by the famously extravagant Duchess of Lauderdale, renowned as a dazzling beauty and a ruthless political schemer. Today, the house has been restored to the height of its glory, filled with 17th-century portraits, furniture, and tapestries, though the gardens are the main attraction. The formal Cherry Garden is actually a diamond-shaped lattice of lavender, santolina, and hedges with not a cherry tree in sight. The Wilderness is even less aptly named, an orderly array of trimmed hedges surrounding nooks of roses and wildflowers, with a 17th-century statuary standing guard. And for those who love the practical-gone-extravagant, the Kitchen Garden offers endless rows of fresh fruit and vegetables. (At the bottom of Sandy Ln., Ham. Bus #65 (then a 15min. walk) or 371 (then a 10min. walk) from Richmond station; or a beautiful 30min. walk along the Thames. A ferry crosses the river from Marble Hill, Twickenham Sa-Su 10am-6:30pm/dusk; Feb.-Oct. M-F 10am-6pm, Sa-Su 10am-6:30pm or dusk. 70p, children 35p. Ham House: ☎8940 1950; www.nationaltrust.org.uk/hamhouse. Open Apr.-Oct. M-W and Sa-Su 1-5pm. Gardens open year-round M-W and Sa-Su 11am-6pm/dusk. Gardens £3, children £2, families £7; house and gardens £9/5/22. MC/V.)

Richmond Theatre. A popular and well-lauded regional theatre, Richmond Theatre is a pre-West End proving ground for a number of popular shows. Recent shows include Swan Lake and an adaptation of Henry James’s Daisy Miller. (On Richmond Green, just above George St. ☎8939 9277, box office 0870 060 6651; www.richmondtheatre.net. Performances M-Tu and Th-F 7:45pm, W and Su 2:30pm and 7:45pm. Tickets start at £10, concessions £2 off M-Th and Sa matinee; students £8 from 1hr. before curtain. £2.50 online or phone booking fee. Box office open M-Sa 10am-8pm.)

Other Sights. Quite the hidden treasure, the Museum of Richmond has a small but fascinating array of exhibits on the history of Richmond, from the days of Queen Elizabeth I to its Blitz legacy. (Whittaker Ave. ☎8332 1141; www.museumofrichmond.com. Open 11am-5pm. Free.) Across the river from Ham House, Marble Hill was built in 1724 by Henrietta Howard, using an allowance from her former lover, George II. (Marble Hill Park, Richmond Rd. Bus #33, H22, R68, R70, 490 from Richmond; or via ferry which crosses from Ham House, Richmond; see above. Alternatively, a 15min. walk from the town center—turn right on Richmond Bridge from Hill St., then left on Richmond Rd. House: ☎8892 5115; www.english-heritage.org.uk/server/show/nav.12809. Open Apr.-Oct. Sa 10am-2pm, Su and bank holidays 10am-5pm. £4.20, concessions £3.20, children £2.10.) Only James Gibbs’s richly decorated Octagon Room survives the 18th-century Orleans House. Louis Philippe, Duc d’Orleans, rode out the French Revolution here before becoming king in 1830. (Riverside, Twickenham. Transportation same as for Marble Hill. House: ☎8831 6000; www.richmond.gov.uk/home/leisure_and_culture/arts/orleans_house_gallery.htm. Open Apr.-Sept. Tu-Sa 1-5:30pm, Su and bank holidays 2-5:30pm; Oct.-Mar. Tu-Sa 1-4:30pm, Su and bank holidays 2-4:30pm. Grounds open daily 9am-dusk. Free.)