London Stonehenge

A half-ruined ring of colossal stones amid swaying grass and indifferent sheep has become a world-famous attraction. Curious tourists visit Stonehenge in droves to see the 22 ft. high stones, pockmarked by the wind that whips across the flat Salisbury plains. The current ring is actually the fifth temple constructed on the site—Stonehenge was already ancient in ancient times. The first arrangement probably consisted of an arch and circular earthwork furrowed in 3050 BC. Its relics are the Aubrey Holes (white patches in the earth) and the Heel Stone (the rough block standing outside the circle). The present shape, once a complete circle, dates from about 1500 BC. The tremendous workforce—estimated at tens of millions of man-hours—and innovation required to transport and erect the 45-ton stones make Stonehenge an impressive monument to human (alien?) effort. Sensationalized religious and scientific explanations for Stonehenge’s purpose add to its intrigue. Some believe the stones are oriented as a calendar, with the position of the sun on the stones indicating the time of year. Celtic druids, whose ceremonies took place in forests, did not actually worship here, but modern druids are permitted to enter Stonehenge on the summer solstice to perform ceremonial exercises. Admission to Stonehenge includes a helpful 30min. audio tour, including legends about the stones and the surrounding landscape. English Heritage also offers free guided tours (30min.). From the roadside or from Amesbury Hill, 1 mi. up the A303, you can get a free, if distant, view of the stones. There are also many walks and trails that pass by; ask at the Salisbury TIC. (All Stonehenge transportation is through Salisbury. Wilts and Dorset runs daily service from the Salisbury train station and bus station (☎336 855. #3, 40min., round-trip £7.50). The first bus leaves Salisbury at 9:45am, and the last leaves Stonehenge at 4:05pm. Check a schedule before you leave; intervals between dropoffs and pickups are at least 1hr. A £6.50 Explorer ticket allows travel all day on any bus, including those to Avebury, Stonehenge’s less-crowded cousin, and Old Sarum. Wilts and Dorset runs a tour bus from Salisbury, 3 per day, £7.50-15. ☎01980 624 715. Open daily June-Aug. 9am-7pm; from mid-Mar. to May and from Sept. to mid-Oct. 9:30am-6pm; from mid-Oct. to mid-Mar. 9:30am-4pm. £6 , concessions £4.40.)