London Windsor And Eton

The town of Windsor and the attached village of Eton center entirely on Windsor Castle and Eton College, two famed symbols of the British upper crust. Windsor is thick with specialty shops, tea houses, and pubs, but not budget accommodations—leave enough time to return to the city for the evening.

Trains depart from London Paddington to Windsor and Eton Central and Windsor and Eton Riverside (45min., 2 per hr., round-trip £9.30). Trains also travel from London Waterloo to Windsor and Eton Riverside (40min., 4 per hr., round-trip £8). Green Line bus #702 departs from London Victoria (1hr., every hr., round-trip £5-10). Bus #77 departs from London Heathrow (45min., every hr., round-trip 4.20).

Orientation And Practical Information

Windsor village slopes from the foot of the castle. High Street spans the hilltop, then becomes Thames Street at the statue of Queen Victoria and continues to the river, at which point it reverts to High St. as it enters Eton. The main shopping area, Peascod Street, meets High St. at the statue. The Tourist Information Centre, Old Booking Hall, Windsor Royal Shopping Center, has free brochures, great maps, and an accommodations guide. (☎743 900; www.windsor.gov.uk. Open Apr.-June daily 10am-5pm; July-Aug. M-Sa 10am-5:30pm, Su 10am-5pm; Sept.-Mar. M-Sa 10am-5pm, Su 10am-4pm.) Other services include: police, on the corner of St. Mark’s Rd. and Alma Rd. (☎08458 505 505; M-Sa 8am-10pm, Su 9am-5pm); Internet access at the library on Bachelors Acre (☎743 940; free 30min. guest pass; open M and Th 9:30am-5pm, Tu 9:30am-8pm, W 2-5pm, F 9:30am-7pm, Sa 9:30am-3pm) or McDonald’s, 13-14 Thames St. (£2 per hr.; open daily 6:30am-10pm); banks with ATMs along Peascod St.; Boots pharmacy, 113 Peasod St. (☎863 595; open M-Sa 8:20am-6pm, Su 10:30am-4:30pm); and the post office, 38-39 Peascod St. (open M and W-F 9am-5:30pm, Tu 9:30am-5:30pm, Sa 9am-4pm). Postal Code: SL4 1LH.

Sights

Windsor Castle

☎831 118. Open daily Mar.-Oct. 9:45am-5:15pm; Nov.-Feb. 9:45am-4:15pm. Last admission 1hr. before close. £13.50, students £12, under 17 £7.50. Tours free.

The largest and oldest continuously inhabited castle in the world, Windsor features some of the most sumptuous rooms in Europe and some of the rarest artwork in the Western tradition. Windsor Castle was built high above the Thames by William the Conqueror as a fortress rather than as a residence, and 40 reigning monarchs have since left their marks. In 1992, a fire devastated over 100 rooms, including nine state rooms, but a massive project has restored the apartments to their original glory. Windsor is the official residence of the Queen, who spends the month of April and many of her private weekends here. During royal stays, large areas of the castle are unavailable to visitors. The admission prices are lowered on these occasions, but it is wise to call ahead or check out the flagpole—when the Queen is in residence, the castle flies the light blue flag of the monarchy. Visitors can watch the Changing of the Guard in front of the Guard Room at 11am (Apr.-July M-Sa; Aug.-Mar. alternate days M-Sa). The Guards can also be seen at 10:50 and 11:30am as they march to and from the ceremony.

Upper Ward. You can reach the upper ward through the Norman tower and gate. The line on the far left enters Queen Mary’s Doll House, a replica of a grand home on a 1:12 scale, with tiny, handwritten classics in its library, miniature crown jewels, and functional plumbing and electrical systems. Velvet ropes lead to the opulent state apartments, used for ceremonial events and official entertainment for world leaders and heads of state. The rooms are ornamented with art from the prodigious Royal Collection, including works by Holbein, Reubens, Rembrandt, van Dyck, and Queen Victoria herself. The Queen’s Drawing Room features portraits of Henry VIII, Elizabeth I, and Mary I, but don’t miss smaller embellishments, like the silver dragon doorknobs. The fully restored Lantern Room, the Grand Reception Room, and St. George’s Hall are stunning.

Middle And Lower Ward. The Round Tower dominates the middle ward. A stroll downhill to the lower ward brings you to St. George’s Chapel, a 15th-century structure with delicate vaulting and a wall of stained glass dedicated to the Order of the Garter, England’s most elite knighthood. Used for the marriage of Sophie and Prince Edward in 1999, the chapel also holds the tombs of the Queen Mother, George III, and Queen Mary. Ask a guide to explain how the bones of Charles I and Henry VIII were accidentally placed under the same stone.

Other Sights

Eton College. Eton College is best known as one of England’s most elite public—which is to say, private—schools. Ironically, it was founded by Henry VI in 1440 as a college for paupers. Despite its current position at the apex of the British class system, Eton has shaped some notable dissident thinkers, including Aldous Huxley, George Orwell, and former Liberal Party leader Jeremy Thorpe. The male students still stay true to many of the old traditions, including wearing tailcoats to class. The 25 houses that surround the quad act as residences for the approximately 1250 students. The Museum of Eton Life displays relics and stories of the school’s extensive past. (A 10-15min. walk down Thames St., across Windsor Bridge, and along Eton High St. ☎671 177. Open daily from late Mar. to mid-Apr. and July-Aug. 10:30am-4:30pm; Sept.-June 2-4:30pm; schedule depends on academic calendar. Tours daily 2:15 and 3:15pm. £4, under 16 and seniors £3.25. Tours £5, under 16 £4.20.)

Legoland Windsor. A whimsical addition to the town, this imaginative amusement park boasts an impressive 50 rides, playgrounds, and circuses. Its Miniland took 100 workers, three years, and 25 million Lego bricks to craft. The replica of the City of London includes a 6 ft. tall St. Paul’s Cathedral and dozens of other city landmarks. (Tickets available at the Windsor TIC. ☎08705 040 404; www.legoland.co.uk. Open daily Apr.-June and Sept.-Oct. 10am-5pm or 6pm; from mid-July to Aug. 10am-7pm. £30, children and seniors £23. Shuttle from town center £3, children £1.50.)