Carcassonne Overview

Carcassonne (car-cah-sohnn; pop. 46,000) has a split personality: on the eastern edge lies La Cité—a fortress that, once upon a time, fell off of a fairy tale and onto the bank of the Aube River, while Bastide St-Louis—the center of the contemporary city—is the hub of modern life under the shadow of the medieval fort. Dramatic and perfectly preserved, Carcassonne is one of France’s largest tourist attractions for a reason. Experience the town late in the evening, when the floodlit fortress echoes with free concerts. Up to 800,000 daytrippers flock to Carcassonne in July, when Bastille Day brings one of France’s most spectacular fireworks displays.

Trains: Behind Jardin André Chenier (☎04 68 71 79 14). Info office open M 5:15am-9:10pm, Tu-F 5:45am-9:10pm, Sa 6:40am-9:10pm, Su 7am-9:45pm. To: Lyon (4hr., at least 5 per day, €55-71); Marseille (3hr., 4 per day, €37-41); Montpellier (1½hr., at least 7 per day, €20-22); Nice (6hr., at least 4 per day, €63); Nîmes (2hr., at least 5 per day, €24-29); Perpignan (2hr.; at least 5 per day, change at Narbonne; €18); Toulouse (1hr., at least 5 per day, €14-16).
Buses: Bd. de Varsovie. From the train station, cross the canal and turn right on bd. Omer Sarrut, then left at the fork. Check schedules at the station. Trans’Aude (☎04 68 25 13 74) serves western Roussillon.
Public Transportation: In summer, a navette (shuttle; ☎04 68 47 82 22) goes from the train station to the parking du Dome on bd. Camille Pelletan (in the lower city) to the citadel gates and continues to Camping de la Cité. From mid-June to mid-Sept. daily every 25min. 9:30am-12:30pm and 1:30-7:30pm, round-trip €1.50. Agglo’Bus, bd. Camille Pelletan (☎04 68 47 82 22), runs buses through the city. To get from the station to the Cité in the low season from pl. Gambetta, turn right and continue on bd. Camille Pelletan to the bus stop at the parking area; take bus #2 (dir.: St-Georges/Montlegun; M-Sa every hr. 7:30am-6:20pm, €1.10). Pick up schedules at the tourist office.
Taxis: Radio Taxi Services (☎04 68 71 50 50). At the train station or across the canal by Jardin André Chenier. €2.60 base; €1.50 per km during the day, €2.30 at night. €8 from station to the Cité. 24hr.

Orientation And Practical Information

The Bastide Saint-Louis, once known as the basse-ville (lower town), is Carcassonne’s commercial center. Its main functions are shops, hotels, bars, and the cathedral; from the train station, the shuttle runs to the citadel in the summer. To get from the train station to the Cité on foot (25min.), walk down rue Maréchal Joffre, which turns into rue Georges Clemenceau. Past the clearing of pl. Carnot, turn left on rue de Verdun past the tourist office, sharply bear right through pl. Gambetta, and turn left up rue du Pont Vieux. After the bridge, take a sharp right to reach rue Barbacane, which leads to the citadel entrance.

Tourist Office: 28 rue de Verdun (☎04 68 10 24 30; www.carcassonne-tourisme.com). Free map, English guide, and accommodations booking. Open July-Aug. daily 9am-7pm; Sept.-June M-Sa 9am-6pm, Su 9am-noon. Annexes in the Cité’s Porte Narbonnaise (☎04 68 10 24 37) and near the station on Port du Canal (☎04 68 25 94 81).
Tours: French tours of Bastide St-Louis from mid-June to mid-Sept. W-Th 9:30am; €5, under 15 €2. Audio tours €3. Regional excursions €35-40, under 18 €15.
Laundromat: Laverie Le Dauphin, 71 av. Général Leclerc (☎04 68 71 43 65). Wash €3.50-6.50, dry €0.50 per 6min. Detergent €0.30. Open daily 8am-8pm.
Police: Comissariat, 4 bd. Barbès (☎04 68 11 26 00). Call for pharmacie de garde.
Hospital: Centre Hospitalier, route de Ste-Hilaire (☎04 68 24 24 24).
Internet Access: Alerte Rouge, 73 rue de Verdun (☎04 68 25 20 39). €3 per hr. Wi-Fi €2 per hr. or free for 1hr. with 1 drink. Open M-Sa 10am-11pm. Call World, 32 rue de la République (☎04 68 72 89 00). €3 per hr. Open M-Sa 10am-noon and 2-9pm, Su 3-9pm.
Post Office: 40 rue Jean Bringer (☎04 68 11 71 00). Currency exchange available. Open M-F 8:30am-6pm, Sa 8:30am-noon. Poste Restante: 11012. Postal Code: 11000.

Accommodations And Camping

Auberge de Jeunesse (HI), rue de Vicomte Trencavel (☎04 68 25 23 16; carcassonne@fuaj.org). A rare refuge of affordable comfort in the medieval city. Summer excursions (€12) and occasional courtyard concerts. Lockers, showers, and sinks in large, clean 4- to 6-bed rooms. Kitchen, bar, and bike rack. Breakfast included. Laundry €6. Internet €2 per hr. Bike rental €8 per day. Reception 24hr. Lockout 10am-3pm. Reservations recommended; we’re talking months ahead for Bastille Day. Bunks €21. MC/V.
Notre-Dame de L’Abbaye, 103 rue Trivalle (☎04 68 25 16 65), 5min. from the Cité. Walk straight after crossing the Pont Vieux from the lower city, continue on rue Hoche, and enter the next building on the left. The cheaper rooms are an absolute steal. Breakfast included. Linen €3. Reception daily 9am-12:30pm and 2-6pm. July 15-Sept. 15 singles €30, with shower and toilet €45; doubles €50/60. Sept 16-July 14 singles €26/40; doubles €44/55. AmEx/MC/V.
Sidsmums Travelers Retreat, 11 chemin de la Croix d’Achille (☎04 68 26 94 49 or 06 16 86 85 00; www.sidsmums.com), 10km south of Carcassonne. Take the bus (dir: Limoux) from the gare routière (M-Sa 10:30am, 5:15, 6:15pm; €2.50), which passes through Preixan. Call ahead to catch a ride on the owner’s free daily lifts into town. New wood cabins with beds or bunks, comfy couches, and a full bookshelf. Ask about hikes to nearby castles and rivers. It is possible to swap lodging for 3hr. of work per day. Spacious kitchen. Internet €3 per hr. Bike rental €10 per day. Reception 24hr. Reservations recommended. Dorms €19-21; doubles €42-47.50. Cash only.
Camping de la Cité, route de Ste-Hilaire (☎04 68 25 11 77; cpllacite@atciat.com). From the basse-ville, cross the Pont Vieux and turn right across the garden down rue Dujardin-Beaumetz. Follow the footpath along the stream and past the sunflower field (45min., from the Cité 30min.) until you reach a green fence, through which you can see the campground; turn left and follow the path. Alternatively, take the navette (€1.50) that goes to the Cité and continues to the campground. Pool, snack bar, and grocery store. Karaoke, dancing, and bike excursions. Laundry. Internet €3 per 30min. Reception July-Aug. 8am-8:30pm; from Sept. to mid-Oct. and from mid-Mar. to June 9am-noon and 2-7pm. From July to late Aug. 2 people with tent €22-23; from late Aug. to early Oct. and from mid-Mar. to June €16-22.40. Electricity €4. Cash only.

Food

The grassy, shady banks of the Aude, near the Pont Vieux, provide ideal picnic sites. If you do eat out, don’t pass up Carcassonne’s specialty, the rich and meaty white bean stew cassoulet—it’s served at nearly every restaurant and is popular even in summer. There’s a fruit and veggie market every Tuesday and Thursday in place Carnot and a larger version with dried fruit and olive vendors every Saturday (8am-noon). For groceries, pop into the Monoprix supermarket, at the intersection of rue Georges Clemenceau and rue de la République. (Open M-Sa 8:30am-8pm, Su 9am-noon. AmEx/MC/V.) Restaurants on rue du Plô offer €11-17 menus; save room for dessert at one of the outdoor crêperies on place Marcou. In the winter, restaurants in the Cité tend to have limited hours.

Maison de la Blanquette de Limoux, pl. Marcou (☎04 68 71 66 09). Fill up on the famed cassoulet castelnaudary, a delicacy said to date back to a culinary experiment in the 100 Years’ War. 3-course menu, including cassoulet, 0.25L wine, and an apéritif, €14. Open July-Aug. daily noon-2:30pm and 7pm-midnight; Sept.-Nov. 15 and Apr.-June M and Th-Su noon-2:30 and 7pm-midnight, Tu noon-5pm. MC/V over €15.
Blanche de Castille, 21 rue Cros Mayrevieille (☎04 68 25 17 80). This salon de thé serves what seems like the only iced coffee in France (€3.80)—though it barely resembles the American version. Foie gras on toast (€12) and tea (€3-4) served on a terrace. Ice cream €3-7. Sandwiches €4.20-8.50. Open July-Aug. daily 8:30am-8pm; Sept.-Oct. and June daily 9am-7pm; Feb.-May Th-Sa 10am-5pm. AmEx/MC/V over €15.

Sights

Medieval City. On a steep hill along the bank of the Aube, Carcassonne’s stone gray Cité (pop. 120), capped with a melange of silver cones and flat medieval towers, is a breathtaking sight. The well-preserved walls and fortifications lie on a foundation dating to the first century. After centuries of unsuccessful sieges, Carcassonne finally came under French control in 1226. Thus began the Cité’s architectural metamorphosis—a 600-year journey from Roman times to the Renaissance illustrated in the architecture of its 52 watchtowers. The outer ramparts were built by Louis IX and Phillip III. A petit train takes visitors around the ramparts with commentary in eight languages, including English and Spanish. (☎04 68 24 45 70. 20min.; May-Sept. daily 10am-noon and 2-6pm; €7, students €6.) A calèche (horse-drawn carriage) also crosses the bridge to the town. (☎04 68 71 54 57. 20min.; Apr.-Oct. daily 10am-6pm; €6, under 12 €4.) Both tours depart from the main entrance of the Cité, at the Porte Narbonnaise.

Château Comtal. Intended to be a palace at the time of its construction in the 12th century, the château was transformed into a citadel after Carcassonne submitted to royal control in 1226. In the 19th century, the castle went through a controversial restoration project, which capped the towers with cone-shaped roofs instead of preserving the medieval architecture. Join a guided tour to visit the château’s inner walls, peruse its ramparts, and learn about the various ways in which the fortress prepared a cruel death for attackers. The Tour de la Justice’s treacherous staircase was a stairway to heaven for invaders who rushed upstairs only to find themselves trapped at the dead end; special openings from above allowed huge stones to be dropped onto unfortunate climbers. The Cour du Midi holds the remains of a Gallo-Roman villa, once home to the troubadours for which Carcassonne’s court was famous. (1 rue Viollet-le-Duc. ☎04 68 11 70 70. Open daily Apr.-Sept. 10am-6:30pm, 1st tour 10:30am; Oct.-Mar. 9:30am-5pm, 1st tour 10:15am. 45min. tours in English, French, and Spanish. From mid-June to mid-Sept. frequent departures. Check the board at the entrance as times change daily. 1hr. tours also available for groups by appointment; €4 extra. €7.50, ages 18-25 €4.80. Audio tour in English, French, German, and Spanish €4, 2 for €6; audio tour does not permit access to ramparts.)

Basilique Saint-Nazaire. The basilica mixes Gothic and Romanesque styles in a vast interior busy with colorful designs. From July to mid-September, the Estivales d’Orgue de la Cité hosts organ concerts every Sunday at 5pm. (At the end of rue St-Louis. Open M-Sa 9-11:45am and 1:45-6pm, Su 9-10:45am and 2-4:30pm.)

Other Sights. Carcassonne’s Cité is filled with small museums, most of which are tourist traps. An exception is the Musée de l’École, which displays life-size figures, photographs, and report cards from the late 1800s, when statesman Jules Ferry made primary education free, compulsory, and secular. (3 rue du Plô. ☎04 68 25 95 14. Open daily July-Aug. 10am-7pm; Sept.-June 10am-6pm. €4, students €3, under 12 free.) The basse-ville —the Bastide Saint-Louis —was born when Louis IX, afraid enemy troops might find shelter close to his fortress, burned the houses that clung to the city’s walls and relocated residents. To make up for the loss, he gave the homeless townspeople their very own walled fortifications and church, which grew into a community that soon eclipsed the Cité itself. Converted into a fortress after the Black Prince razed Carcassonne in the Hundred Years’ War, the basse-ville ’s Cathédrale Saint-Michel still sports fortifications on its southern side. The church’s back entrance opens onto a small but meticulously kept garden. (Rue Voltaire. Open M-Sa 7am-noon and 2-7pm, Su 8:30am-12:30pm.)

Nightlife

The evening is the best time for wandering Carcassonne’s Cité streets and relaxing in the cafes in place Marcou. Bars and cafes at place Carnot, in the basse-ville, stay open until midnight or later.

Le Bar à Vins, 6 rue du Plô (☎04 68 47 38 38). The best bar in town. A fusion of glitter and electronica, this wine bar meets beer garden draws a mixed crowd of tourists and local youth. The excellent house mojito (€9) alone is worth a stop. Tapas and sandwiches €4.50-12. Wine €2. Beer €2.90-6. Open daily 9am-2am. MC/V.
O’Sheridans, 13 rue Victor Hugo (☎04 68 72 06 58), off pl. Carnot. A friendly Irish pub filled with French and Anglo crowds. Pints €6. Live music Sept.-June every other Th 10pm. Happy hour 6-8pm; whiskey ½-price. Open daily 5pm-2am. MC/V.

Festivals

Festival de la Cité (☎04 68 11 59 15; www.festivaldecarcassonne.com), in July. Brings dance, opera, theater, and concerts to the Château Comtal and the amphitheater. €25-66, most shows students €15.
Festival de la Bastide (☎04 68 10 24 30; www.carcassonne-festivaldelabastide.com), in July. Showcases smaller bands as well as free comedy, music, and dance performances in the squares of the Cité and the Bastide St-Louis. Schedules at tourist office.
Bastille Day, July 14. Deep red floodlights and smoke set the entire Cité ablaze in remembrance of the villages burned by the inquisitorial jury headquartered here during the Tour de l’Inquisition. The fireworks display draws 700,000-800,000 visitors. The banks of the river provide a great view, but do try to avoid getting trampled.
Tournoi de Chevaliers (☎04 68 72 37 40; www.carcassonnetoros.com), in July and Aug. At 3 and 4:45pm, an equestrian show offers mock jousting and battles. Turkey legs, anyone? €10, ages 7-18 €5, under 7 free.
Spectacles Médiévaux, 2 weeks in mid-Aug. The Cité returns to the Middle Ages. Even non-French-speakers will enjoy the nightly 9:30pm show—a multimedia drama in the castle amphitheater that brings the 13th century to life (€2-5, under 7 free).
Fiesta y Toros, the last week of Aug. A celebration of Spanish culture with horse shows, traditional dances, and corridas (bullfights; €30).