Cartago had its time in the limelight when it served as the nation’s capital from 1563 until 1823, before the seat of power shifted to San José, 22km northwest. Its size, power, and remarkable colonial architecture have since suffered from earthquakes and volcanic eruptions, reducing the once-busy urban center to a quiet satellite of San José. Most ticos will tell you that it is better to pass through Cartago than to stay there, as Cartago’s most famous sights—La Basílica de Nuestra Señora (The Basilica of Our Lady), Las Ruinas de la Parroquia (The Parochial Ruins), and the nearby Lankester Botanical Gardens—are easily visited on daytrips from San José or Orosí.
Cartago is not a real tourist destination these days and there is a resulting dearth of accommodations and restaurants. Use the city as a base for excursions to Volcán Irazu and Parque Nacional Tapantí, but don’t plan a long stay.
Bus departure points are scattered around town. There are no printed schedules, but bus and taxi drivers are a good source of information for departure times and locations. Buses from Av. 1/3, C. 6, depart to: Orosi (40min.; every 30min. 7am-2pm, every 15min. 2-7pm; ¢360); from Av. 3/5, C. 6, to Paraíso for Lankester Botanical Gardens (15min., every 10min. 7am-7pm, ¢155); from Av. 6, C. 2/4, in front of the police station, to San José (☎2591 4145; 40min., every hr. daily 9:20am-10:30pm, ¢385); from Av. 6/8, C. 4, to Tierra Blanca (30min., every hr. daily 7am-7pm, ¢290); from Av. 3, C. 8/10, to Turrialba (1hr., every hr. daily 9:20am-10:30pm, ¢620). To get to Volcán Irazú, Taxis on the west side of the parque on Av. 1/2, C. 1.
Cartago is anchored by Avenida 1 and Calle 1, which form the southern and western edges of the parque central. East of the parque are Las Ruinas, a cathedral destroyed by an earthquake. Further to the east is La Basílica de Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles, which attracts tourists and believers alike. The mercado central, between Av. 4/6 and C. 1/3, is northwest of the parque central. Volcán Irazú soars 32km northeast of town and the Jardín Botánico Lankester is about 8km southeast. Though the city is relatively safe, don’t wander too far north or west of the mercado central, and take taxis whenever possible at night.
San José and Orosi are better places to stay, though Cartago does have one satisfactory budget option and another, more comfortable B&B.
MegaSuper, Av. 4, C. 3, has a cafeteria, a bakery, and a wide selection of snacks and essentials. (☎2551 1005. Open M-Sa 8am-9pm, Su 7am-8pm.) Other than the tiny sodas that come and go around here, there are mostly fast food joints and a few Chinese restaurants. Check out these cafes and restaurants instead.
La Basílica De Nuestra Señora De Los Ángeles. Costa Rica’s most famous place of worship stands at the eastern edge of town. Thousands of ticos make an annual pilgrimage to this awe-inspiring cathedral on August 2 for El Día de la Virgen to worship the statue of La Negrita, an image of the Virgin said to have healing powers. La Negrita was declared the patron saint of Cartago in 1824, about 100 years before an earthquake destroyed the original Basílica. Construction on the Byzantine-style church visited today began in 1912.
The interior of the church is decorated with stunning stained-glass windows, intricately carved pillars, and an impressive golden altar. Back outside, walk around to the east side of the church to see the trove of offerings left for the Virgin over the years. Glass cases line the walls, displaying miniature metal body parts offered to the Virgin for the blessings that her supplicants believe cured their maladies. A shelf at the front of the room is filled with medals, miniature house models, and even graded school exams, testament to ticos’ widespread faith in La Negrita’s powers. From this room, two sets of stairs lead down to the Cripta de la Piedra (Crypt of the Stone), which contains the boulder where La Negrita is said to have been first sighted. (Open daily 5:30am-8pm. Free.)
Las Ruinas De La Parroquia. The crumbling walls are the remains of Cartago’s first parochial church. Built in 1575 and dedicated to Apostle Santiago of Spain, it stood intact until 1841, when an earthquake almost completely destroyed the structure. The cathedral was reconstructed, only to be damaged by another tremor in 1910. Today, the roofless walls enclose a pleasant garden. The lawn surrounding the ruins and the parque central make perfect spots for an afternoon nap. (On Av. 1/2, C. 2/4 on the east side of the parque central.)
Jardín Botánico Lankester. Located 6km southeast of Cartago near the small town of Paraíso, these lush tropical gardens display the entire range of Costa Rican plant life. Several self-guided trails wind through the garden’s 10 hectares of tropical premontane forest, nourishing a stunning range of flora and fauna, including heliconias, gingers, banana plants, cacti, ferns, and trees, among which flutter over 100 species of birds. The well-maintained trails are lined with informational signs, making the trip enjoyable for nature lovers as well as casual hikers. The less botanically minded might enjoy the more whimsical aspects, like the waterfalls, fish ponds with koi, and bamboo tunnel.
Founded in the 1950s by British naturalist Charles H. Lankester, the garden is now operated by the University of Costa Rica and is known best for its famed collection of orchids, the most glamorous members of the epiphyte family. The best time to see the 800 species of orchids bloom is between February and May. Brochures are available in English, Spanish, German, French, and Italian. The garden also runs field courses in tropical biology and accepts volunteers. (From Cartago, take a Paraíso bus from Av. 5/7, C. 6 (15min., every 10min. 5am-10pm, ¢155) and ask the driver to let you off at Jardín Lankester. It is the stop just after the Mall Paraíso. Buses between Orosi and Cartago also stop here. Follow the road at the bus stop that forks off the main road; it’s a 15min. walk. ☎2552 3247; fax 2552 3151. Open daily 8:30am-4:30pm. US$5, students US$3.50, under 3 free. All credit cards and traveler’s checks accepted.)
Volcán Irazú. With an elevation of 3432m, Volcán Irazú is Costa Rica’s tallest active volcano. The name commemorates an indigenous village called Iztarú that once perched daringly on these slopes. Appropriately enough, the village name means “mountain of quakes and thunder.” It first erupted in 1723 and has recorded 15 eruptions since, most recently on December 8, 1994. Its most famous eruption occurred on March 9, 1963, the day John F. Kennedy arrived in Costa Rica for an official visit. The blast severely damaged the agriculture in the Central Valley, destroyed some 300 homes, and transformed parts of the surrounding forest into a gray, dusty wasteland still visible today. Though sulfurous fumaroles continue to roll off a few of the volcano’s five craters, Irazú is relatively inactive and is one of the few volcanoes that can be observed up close. If you’re lucky—mornings in the dry season are best—you can see the Atlantic Ocean, Pacific Ocean, and Lago de Nicaragua from the summit. For the best view, walk up the hill from the small cafe and turn right onto the path upward toward the large radio tower. To see the craters, follow the cement path that begins in the parking lot next to the cafe.
The expansive Cráter Playa Hermosa, more a sandy field of volcanic ash than a true crater, is the first crater on the left. To the right is the Cráter Diego de la Haya (690m wide, 100m deep), named after the mayor of Cartago who recorded the volcano’s first eruption. Straight ahead is the Cráter Principál (1050m wide, 300m deep), the only active crater, which boasts an enormous cauldron. The Principal Crater cradles a sulfurous iguana-green lake; the color comes from chemicals produced by volcanic gases emitted into the water.
Be sure to bring rain gear and a few extra layers of warm clothes, since temperatures range from a high of 17˚C to a bone-chilling low of -3˚C, and rainfall averages almost 2200mm annually. A small cafeteria, next to the main parking lot and the entrance to the craters, serves snacks, hot drinks, and souvenirs. There is no camping or lodging at the volcano. (The best time to see Volcán Irazú is on weekends; getting there during the week is difficult without private transportation. A bus leaves San José from Av. 2, C. 1/3, across the street from the Gran Hotel Costa Rica. (2hr.; Sa-Su 8am, return 12:30pm; round-trip ¢3000.) It stops in Cartago, Av. 6/8, C. 4 (8:30-9am, round-trip ¢2000). During the week, it is easiest to arrange tours through the Orosi Tourist Info and Adventure Center (☎2553 1113). Take the 7am bus from Cartago to Orosi (40min.). The Orosi tour leaves at 8am and includes a visit to La Casa del Soñador, Ujarrás ruins, and a waterfall. Tours must be reserved by 4pm the day before (US$20, plus US$10 volcano entrance fee; 3-person min.). Park open daily 8am-3:30pm. US$10. A longer tour is also available from OTIAC that stops at other local sights.)
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