Athens Glyfada And The Coast

Buses A2, A3, and B2 leave from Vas. Amalias and travel along the coastline on Poseidonos (30-40min., €0.90). The spotless, air-conditioned tram (€0.60) leaves from the same place every 8min. until midnight and is uninterrupted by traffic.

Stretching along the sea from Faliro to Sounion, Glyfada has become synonymous with swanky clubs and crowded beaches. Glyfada Town is a densely packed commercial center that teems with designer shops and a wide array of ethnic cuisine. Both tram and bus hug the sea as they head from Athens to Glyfada, so you can scope out the beaches just beyond the stops named after them. The closest, Edem, Batis, and Kalamaki, are less than pristine, but they charge no admission. Kalamaki in particular is known for its loud music and drunken, dancing masses. For a slightly quieter but still well-attended shore, head to Batis. Beyond Platas Glyfadas toward suburbs Vouliagmeni and Varkiza, beaches are cleaner and more secluded. Entrance fees of €5-10 often include use of pools and bungalows.

With beach views and hipster crowds, the clubs of Glyfada have earned their hot rep. They tend to be expensive, but cabs of trendy Athenians still flock here nightly. Balux, Vas. Georgiou B58 in Glyfada ( ☎21089 41 620) , Mao (☎21089 44 048; pool open during the day €8), on Diadohou Paulou in Glyfada, and Island ( ☎21096 53 563), on Limanakia Vouliagmeni in Vouliagmeni, are three colorful, beachside options. Also look for Prime and Envy. Cover is usually €10-15, and club-wear is expected (i.e., no shorts). Drinks typically range €6-12 but can go as high as €100 for a bottle of vodka and mixers for your table. Envy and Mao are accessible by tram, but the best bet for most clubs is to call a taxi (☎21096 05 600). A cab to Glyfada should cost about €8, but traffic and nighttime charges can make rates swell to €10-15. Ask the price in advance; if your cab is packed with more than just your party, don’t be swindled into a set price per individual.

Most daytime activity in Glyfada Town is on Lazaraki and Metaxa, both parallel to the nighttime strip that runs down the coast. Restaurants line Konstantinopoleos, including Sushi Bar 3, Konstantinopoleos 15, on a breezy veranda. (☎21089 42 200. Sushi rolls €7-9 . Open daily 12:30pm-12:30am. MC/V.) San Marzano 2, Konstantinopoleos 13, serves Italian classics. (☎21096 81 124. Margherita pizza €6.60. Open daily 1pm-1am. AmEx/MC/V.) Garden of Eden 3, Zerva 12, is a block from Hotel Ilion away from the center. Lebanese dishes like makdous (baby eggplant stuffed with walnuts and spices; €3.50) and kas-kas (meatballs in spicy tomato sauce; €8) are accented by stained-glass windows and hookahs. (Open daily 8:30pm-midnight. MC/V.)

On the Third Marina (toward the beach from tram stop Paleo Demarhio, opposite the church) is a Sea Turtle Rescue Center, where visitors can walk around pools that contain injured turtles rescued in Greece. Located inside old train cars, the center is Athens’s only turtle hospital. The staff is eager to offer information and readily accepts volunteers. (☎21089 82 600. Open daily 5-8pm.)