Athens Kifisia

Things haven’t changed much since the shady pine trees of this quiet, posh suburb drew Athenian aristocrats during Roman times. A large, manicured park and pristine marble streets lie 12km north of the city—just a few stops on the metro, but a wealthy world away from urban Athens.

Transportation And Practical Information. Kifisia is best reached by rail but is also accessible by bus. Take M1, the green line, all the way to the last stop (30min., daily 5am-12:30am, €0.90). You also can take either the A7 or B7 bus (30min., €0.60) from Akademias and Themistokleous in Omonia. Taxis ( ☎21062 33 100 or 21062 80 84 000) are available 24hr .

Kifisia has a large concentration of banks downtown. Eurobank, Kifisias 271, exchanges currency and traveler’s checks. (Open M-Th 8am-2:30pm, F 8am-2pm.) Citibank, Levidou 16, also has a 24hr. ATM. (Open M-Th 8:30am-2:30pm, F 8:30am-2pm). Eleftheroudakis Bookstore, Kifisias 268, offers a few English titles amid mostly Greek-language books. (Open M-F 9am-9pm, Sa 9am-5pm. AmEx/MC/V.) The police, Othonos 94, are near the Natural History Museum. (☎21062 34 450. 24hr. assistance ☎171. Open daily 8am-1:30pm.) Dial ☎166 for an ambulance. The OTE is at Papadiamanti 8. (☎21062 32 899. Open M and W 7:30am-3pm, Tu and Th-F 7:30am-8pm, Sa 8am-3pm.) The post office, Levidou 3a, set in a mini-square off the sidewalk, accepts Poste Restante. (☎17 665. Open M-F 7:30am-2pm.) Postal Code: 14503.

Accommodations And Food. If you’re looking to slim down your wallet, Kifisia’s hotels will be glad to help; otherwise, don’t bother staying here. One comparatively modest option is Hotel des Roses 5, Militiadou 4, just off Kyriazi. Rooms have air-conditioning, TV, fridge, bath, and a view of the hills. (☎19 952. Breakfast included. Singles €75-85; doubles €90-110.)

Food in Kifisia is more budget-friendly. At Yo Sushi 2, Kifisias 238-240, sushi standbys such as salmon sashimi (€5.50), tuna maki (€6), and edamame (€3.50) are served on the outdoor terrace. (☎21062 32 346; http://yosushi.gr. Open daily 1pm-1am.) Dos Hermanos 3, Kyriazi 24 , serves excellent Mexican fare. (☎87 906. Mexican omelette €10. Chili con carne €14.50. Open Tu-Su 7pm-1am; in winter Tu-Sa 7pm-1am, Su 1pm-1am. MC/V.) Pappa’s Restaurant 2, Kifisias 222 and Drosini 3 , makes spaghetti Neapolitana (€4), chicken with mustard sauce (€7.10), and a variety of pizzas (€6-9) in a huge, air-conditioned expanse. (☎18 463. Open daily noon-1am. AmEx/MC/V.) Kifisia also has many affordable take-out options, including the kiosks and cafes within or near the park. Varsos 1, Kassaveti 5, is a factory-like dessert complex. Famous apricot-custard tarts ( €3 ) and brioche ( €1.20 ) have made this patisserie a classic. (☎12 472. Open M-F 7am-1am, Sa 7am-2am, Su 7am-midnight.) Another dessert option is Crepes Kifisia 1. (☎21062 31 371. Most crepes under €4. Open M-Th and Su 11am-4am, F-Sa 11am-late.) AB Supermarket, on the corner of Levidou and Kassaveti, has an extensive selection for the picnic-bound. (☎82 812. Open M-F 8am-9pm, Sa 8am-6pm. AmEx/MC/V.)

Sights And Entertainment. The Goulandris Museum of Natural History, Levidou 13, has taxidermied birds and mammals native to Greece, as well as displays of insect, reptile, mollusk, and plant biology. A room dedicated to geology features a collection of minerals along with a few Jurassic bones and fossils. (☎15 870. Open M-Th and Sa-Su 9am-2pm. Closed Aug. 1-18. €4, students and children 5-18 €1.50, children under 5 free.) The Gaia Center, Othonos 100, is around the corner and filled with multimedia exhibits on ecological systems. Unfortunately, the lack of English labels reduces it to a soothing display of bells and whistles for a non-Greek speaker. (Open M-Th and Sa-Su 9am-2:30pm. €4.50, children €1.50.)

Cine Boubouniera, on the corner of Papadiamanti and Levidou, shows English-language movies in an outdoor garden during the summer. (Ticket office open daily 8:50am-noon. €7.) The Bowling Center, Kolokotroni 1, is a popular nighttime destination. (☎84 662. Game of bowling or 30min. billiards M-Th and Su €2-4, F-Sa €4-5.30. Beer €2. Mixed drinks €4-6. Open daily 10am-2am.) If you stay late you’ll find some popular suburban bars including Big Deals, 50 H. Trikoupi.( ☎21062 30 860. Mixed drinks €9-10. Open M-Th and Su 8pm-3:30am, F-Sa 8pm-later.)