Athens Rafina

Attica’s second-most prominent port, Rafina can be thought of as a smaller, quieter version of Piraeus. Though ferry service from Rafina is not as frequent as service from Piraeus, departure frequency recently has increased, and prices can be as much as 10% cheaper. Compared to its larger counterpart, there’s less to do in Rafina, but it’s easier on the eyes, ears, and lungs.

Don’t stay in Rafina unless you’re stuck here, since it’s boring and expensive. Down from the plateia overlooking the water, Avra Hotel 4 boasts decked-out rooms with air-conditioning, TV, phone, bath, and hair dryer. The hotel has both a restaurant and a bar. (☎22 780. Breakfast included. Singles, doubles, and triples €70-130.) Hotel Corali 4, Pl. Plastira 11, rents standard rooms with bath, fridge, TV, air-conditioning, and phone. (☎22 477, owner’s home 28 900. Singles €40-70; doubles €60-100; triples €70-120; quads €80-140.) For superb camping facilities, travel 2km to Camping Kokkino Limanaki 1. (☎31 604; www.athenscamping.com. Tent rental €6.50. Huts €23-26.) Head right at the top of the ramp, right again at the end of the blue fence, then follow the coast to reach a waterfront lined with cafes, pizzerias, and tavernas. O Vrahos 3, Vas. Pavlou 1, is toward the water on the left. The family that owns the taverna catches the fish they serve daily. (☎25 912. Mussels with rice €14.50. Open daily 11am-midnight.) Early ferry-catchers can try Fournos tis Plateias 1, a bakery on the right side of the plateia facing the water. (☎26 083. Fresh bread €0.70. Various croissants from €1.40. Open daily 6:30am-11pm.) A mini-mart sells fruits, vegetables, and toiletries off Pl. Plastira, around the corner from the bakery. (Open daily 8am-2pm and 5-10pm.)

From Rafina, ferries go to: Andros (2hr., 5-6 per day, €10.50); Marmari, Evia (50min., 5-8 per day, €9); Mykonos (5hr., 4-6 per day, €16); Paros (1-2 per day, €21); Syros (2 per week, €14.10); Tinos (4hr., 5-6 per day, €15.50). Flying Dolphins zip daily to: Mykonos (1hr., €30); Paros (€34); Syros (€23.40); Tinos (€27). The port authority (☎22 300) supplies info on ferry times, which fluctuate weekly and even daily, especially during high season. Along the waterfront, Blue Star Ferries (☎23 561), Rafina Tours (☎22 700), and Hellas Flying Dolphins (☎22 292) sell tickets for ferries and catamarans. (All open daily 6am-9pm.) Taxis (☎23 101) line up in front of the plateia. Both the Commercial Bank, two blocks inland from the plateia (☎25 184; open M-Th 8am-2:30pm, F 8am-2pm), and Alpha Bank (☎24 159; open M-Th 8am-2:30pm, F 8am-2pm), one block beyond the far left corner of the plateia, exchange currency and have 24hr. ATMs. The waterfront also has 24hr. ATMs. Reach the police at ☎22 100 and the port police at ☎28 888. There is a pharmacy one block to the right of the plateia’s right inland corner. (☎23 456. Open M-F 8:30am-2pm, Tu and Th-F 8:30am-2pm and 5:30-9pm.) For a doctor, call ☎22 633 or 28 428. In a medical emergency, dial ☎166. The OTE is in the unmarked building inland from the plateia, beside the church. (☎25 182. Open M-F 7:30am-3pm.) Facing inland at the dock, the post office is two streets to the right on El. Venizelou. Postal Code: 19009.