Chanthaburi, the “City of the Moon,” is famous for its gemstones, fruits, and the waterfalls of the parklands around it. Year-round, rubies and sapphires from all over the world are cut and sold right before your eyes in the city’s gem district, a hub of the global gemstone market. From May to July, Chanthaburi’s fruit market bulges with mouth-watering produce which is also displayed with pride each year at the annual fruit festival. These attractions, in addition to the neighboring national parks and the small-town feel of the locals’ warm hospitality, make Chanthaburi a worthwhile visit.
The bus station (☎039 311 299), on Saritidet Rd., sends buses to: Aranyaprathet (3hr., every hr. 3am-1pm and 7-10pm, 95-133฿); Bangkok (4hr., every hr. 2am-midnight, 187฿); Khorat (6hr., every 2hr. 2am-10pm, 266฿); Pattaya and Si Racha (2hr.; 5, 7:30, 8:30, 10:30am, 1, 3pm; 130฿); Rayong (2hr., every 40min. 4:20am-7:30pm, 67฿); Trat (1hr., every hr. 7am-9:30pm, 57฿). Motorcycle taxis , usually clustered near the bus station and around the market, go anywhere in town for 30-50฿.
To get downtown from the bus station, turn left onto Saritidet (also spelled Sarididech) Road, which ends at Benchamarachuthis Road, at the Kasemsarn Hotel, a useful landmark. The alley to the left of the hotel leads to Sukhaphibal Road, which runs parallel to Benchamarachuthis Rd. along the river. Heading right at the Kasemsarn Hotel leads to the commercial heart of town. Si Rong Muan Road, to the right of Kasemsarn, goes to the market. The gem district begins one block past Si Rong Muan Rd., on Kasemsarn, to the right down Kwang Road and left on Sri Chan Road. Services include:
Due in large part to the thriving gem-trading market, Chanthaburi has a number of places to rest your head. To reach one budget spot, continue down the alley at the end of Saritidet Rd., on Benchamarachuthis Rd., and turn left onto Sukhaphibal Rd. On the left is the Arun Sawat Hotel , which features colorful but basic rooms with small balconies and fan. (☎039 311 082. Doubles with bath 150-200฿.) Turn right at the Kasemsarn Hotel, and follow Benchamarachuthis Rd., which turns into Sri Chan Rd., to the River Guest House , 3/5-8 Sri Chan Rd. (☎039 328 211). The well-kept rooms are a pretty good value, but ask for rooms away from the sometimes loud road nearby. (Internet access 30฿ per hr. Rooms with fan 250฿, with A/C 350฿.)
Take your grumbling stomach to Chanthaburi’s immense market, centered on the fountain one block west of Benchamarachuthis Rd., down Si Rong Muang Rd. It is famous not only for its fruit but also for its noodles and selection of peppers. After sundown, brightly lit food vendors situated on the streets around the market dole out curries and noodle dishes. Chanthaburi’s well-known noodles are called kuay tiow sen jaan . Ask for kuay tiow phat pu for a local speciality that’s similar to pad thai, but more sweet and spice. On Si Chan Rd., a few blocks from Benchamarachuthis Rd. on the left, is a restaurant at the River Guest House, has an English menu with breakfast options and sandwiches (50-90฿; open 8am-noon). Air-conditioned and modern Krua Tah Luang Restaurant , in the Kasemsarn Hotel, is a nice getaway from street food and street commotion. (Big bowl of muesli and fruit 80฿. Salmon and curry 180฿. Open daily 7am-10pm.) For a relaxing river-side dining experience, head to the restaurant across from Arun Sawat . Look for a wooden “welcome” sign and wooden steps leading down to a raised patio. The views are almost as impressive as the extensive menu. Their English menu is a bit more limited, but if you can surmount the language barrier, the cook can whip up any simple Thai dish you want. (Dishes 60฿-80฿. Open daily 10am-midnight.)
Chanthaburi’s more spectacular sights are outside the city limits, but a few treasures within town keep travelers entertained for a day or two. On weekends, shoppers head to Si Chan Road, the heart of Chanthaburi’s gem district. Some 50-60% of the world’s rubies and sapphires pass through here on their way from mines in Cambodia, Laos, Myanmar, and even Africa. Though Chanthaburi itself no longer produces as many gems as it used to, the city is still the center for cutting and buying. Tourists can see mounds of gems being inspected and bought. Buyers are sitting at tables; brokers are usually the ones standing and circulating. Those who know what they are doing can get rubies and sapphires at a significant discount, but tourists are discouraged from shopping, as they could be easily swindled into buying low-quality gems.
The impressive Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, across the footbridge, near the southern end of Sukhaphibal Rd., is the largest Catholic cathedral in Thailand and serves the large population of immigrant Vietnamese Christians who fled their native country during the 19th and 20th centuries. The building, whose construction began in 1711, has seen five renovations. The last one (by the French) left it with a decidedly European feel. It has a high Gothic tower, beautiful stained-glass windows, and large statues of St. Joachim and St. Anna inside. (Mass Su 6:15, 8:30am, 7pm and M-Sa 6am, 7pm.)
For an unusual night on the town, head to the epicenter of Chanthaburi’s nightlife scene at the enormous Full Moon Pub, across from the southeastern corner of Taksin Park. Live bands belt out Thai pop while a beautiful, hip young crowd looks on. It rocks all week, but is really packed Fridays and Saturdays. Get here by taxi from the city center for 30฿; taxis may be hard to find for the return journey, but it’s only a 15 min. walk back to Benchamarachuthis Rd. (Soda 30฿. Singha 120฿. Open nightly 9pm-2am.) If loud Thai pop isn’t your thing, go next door and be treated to loud Thai karaoke at Delight Bar. Locals gather in individual karaoke cubicles to battle it out for the title of best amateur singer, perhaps in hopes of one day taking the Full Moon Pub’s larger and more popular stage. (Open nightly 6pm-1am.)
Chanthaburi is situated near a number of respected national parks that Thai tourists seeking fresh air flock to by the busload. To save on transportation, arrange tour packages with the staff at the River Guest House. A trip to both parks, the temple, Oasis Sea World, and a number of other less interesting sights along the way costs 1200฿ (includes taxi ride; site entrance fees not included). Alternatively, you can combine just Khao Kitchakut and Wat Khao Sukim, or Nam Tok Phliu and Oasis Sea World, for 600฿.
Khao Khitchakut National Park. Thirty kilometers north of town, on Hwy. 3249 in Khao Khitchakut National Park, the Chanthaburi River churns down the 13 tiers of Nam Tok Krathing (Krathing Falls), the park’s most popular attraction. A steep, rocky trail leads up from a Buddha at the mountain’s base to tier 9; falls 10-13 are too dangerous to climb to. Falls 5-7 are great for swimming, or simply standing under the spray of the falls. Once you’ve bathed in cascades beneath enormous vines and golden butterflies, you’ll understand why 2000 Thais flock to the falls every weekend. The climb is exhilarating but treacherous. Come prepared with a swimsuit, good shoes, and lots of drinking water.
A small canteen for two (600฿), six (1800฿), or eight people (2400฿). For weekend stays, call the ranger station at least one week in advance. (Songthaew leave from the fountain at the market in Chanthaburi for 50-100฿ but rarely go in the direction of Khao Khitchakut. If you’re lucky enough to find one, you will be dropped off at the 1.5km access road marked by the number 2511 and a white fleur-de-lis on a red fence post, on the right side of the road. Tell your driver ahead of time that you are going to Khitchakut Park or Nam Tok Krathing, as the signpost is difficult to see coming up on a songthaew. More likely, visitors will have to hire a taxi (250฿, round trip 600฿), depending on the length of time spent at the park. Park headquarters ☎025 620 760, located beyond entrance booth. Open daily 6am-6pm. 200฿, 10 and under 100฿.)
Nam Tok Phliu National Park. Welcoming over 80,000 visitors per year, Nam Tok Phliu is one of Chanthaburi’s best-known parks and is loved by Thai tourists for its swimmable natural pools filled with carp fish, pla pluang, hoping to be fed. To experience the fish-feeding frenzy first-hand, purchase a 10฿ bundle of leafy fish food from the stalls outside the park. The most popular falls to visit, Phliu Falls, provides tourists with a spectacular waterfall, pools for swimming, and a scenic 1km nature trail circling it. A stupa containing the remains of Queen Sunatha, the wife of King Rama V, sits at the bottom of the falls as a memorial for the King’s immortal love. Nam Tok Phliu’s other falls, Nam Tok Makok, Nam Tok Klong Nalai, and Nam Tok Nong, offer more seclusion, but are in various parts of the park, each of which must be driven to by car or by taxi. The rest of the park’s 135 sq. km of rainforest are bereft of trails. The Park Headquarters and visitors center (☎039 434 528), on the road leading to the Phliu Falls, have maps with directions to the falls as well as information on camping with your own tent (30฿) or renting a tent for six people (1800฿). Bring a bathing suit and hiking gear if you plan to hike the 1hr. nature trail. (From Chanthaburi, songthaew (30min., 100฿) leave from the north side of the market’s roundabout and stop at the park gate. It may take a lot of luck—or persistence—to find a songthaew containing other people. Alternatively, hire a taxi for 150฿ from the market and negotiate a return fee. Walk the 2.5km to the highway, and catch a passing songthaew from there to save taxi fare, 20฿. Open daily 6am-6pm. 200฿, children 10 and under 100฿.)
Wat Khao Sukim. Perched on a mountainside 20km outside Chanthaburi, Wat Khao Sukim is the pride of local Buddhists. Built as a meditation center, the temple has drawn much attention due to several resident celebrity monks. As a result, it has received impressive donations of Buddhist statues and artwork. Though the temple itself is not spectacular, the display halls, crammed with everything from trees made of colored glass to furniture inlaid with mother-of-pearl, are overwhelming. Amid all these riches, life-like wax replicas of monks sit in meditation. The view from the roof offers panoramas of mountains, a waterfall, and fruit groves, and gives a glimpse of Chanthaburi’s natural beauty for those who don’t have time for its parks. An enclosure with a number of peacocks, and a lake with tons of sea turtles of varying size, allow visitors to enjoy some fauna amidst all the flora. (Take a taxi round trip for 400฿, or catch a songthaew for Na Ya-am at Chanthaburi’s market, get off at Sathorn, and try get a songthaew to the temple. However, songthaew rarely go there, so a taxi may be your only hope. Open daily 6:30am-5pm.)
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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